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AV mode gives me blurred pictures-WHY?

MKamran

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I am good at TV mode pictures but don't know why my pictures are blurred and there's ghosting in AV mode.
I set the ISO to 1600 and the f. was 4.5 and the lightening was not very good indoors so i used the flash... BUT Still the same issue... i'm using a kit lens.


Have a 85mm lens 1.8 but i need help with that too... was 85mm a good choice in the 1st place??
 
Welcome to the forum; it would help greatly if you could post a couple of the images in question along with full EXIF data. It sounds to me like there simply wasn't enough light and your camera used a shutter speed which was too long for you to hand-hold. Despite how bright things appear to our eye, the camera sees them as much, much dimmer, especially indoors. The 85mm focal length is a great one for portrait work!
 
Sure! i will take photos indoors with the same settings and upload them here...

What resources can i check online to get an in-depth analysis of what i am doing right and what i'm doing wrong... I don't want to pay for tutorials....
What software should i use for photo editing and to get a good bokeh?
Also i want to convert my pictures to sepia mode... and my Canon 70D camera only has greyscale! ANY SOFTWARE FOR MAC THAT CAN HELP ME achieve my goal ??
 
These are some excellent tutorials; as well, search almost any term in YouTube and you will find a wealth of information. Of course posting images and asking questions here is also an excellent way to learn ('though it sometimes helps to have a thick skin, as critique isn't always what we want to hear about our own work).

There are thousands of choices for software from the industry-standard Adobe products (Photoshop & Lightroom), to Corel's PaintShopPro and freeware such as Gimp. Most of these packages are available for Mac, and all will allow you to do sepia and almost any other type of conversion.

Understand that bokeh is a function of the lens you are using and other than changing aperture and varying depth of field and camera to subject and subject to background distances NOT something you can control or change. In short, it is what it is (mostly).
 
The most likely culprit here is shutter speed - in AV mode generally the camera will try to adjust for a slower shutter speed so that it can keep the ISO as low as possible. Unfortunately this can also result in motion blur or even camera shake in the final image.

If your shooting with an 85 mm lens I'd recommend a minimum shutter speed of 100 for taking pictures of non moving subjects, this should eliminate camera shake. For moving subjects you'll want to increase the shutter speed to eliminate motion blur, the faster your subject moves the higher shutter speed you'll need to eliminate blur.

Since most of what I shoot moves I generally use shutter priority rather than aperture priority, but when aperture is important I will use aperture priority and set my shutter speed manually.

A lot of cameras will also allow you to set a minimum shutter speed so you can use Av mode without having to worry so much about adjusting the shutter speed between shooting situations.
 
Basically, don't use AV for low-light flash photography.

On AV, the camera WILL try to get a correct exposure as if the flash were not attached. It might choose a 3-second shutter speed, for example. The shutter click, the flash fires, but the shutter stays open for three seconds, capturing whatever it sees during that time, which unless nothing moves and the camera is on a tripod, will result in a blurred image. Even 1/10th is enough for serious motion blur.
 
The most likely culprit here is shutter speed - in AV mode generally the camera will try to adjust for a slower shutter speed so that it can keep the ISO as low as possible. Unfortunately this can also result in motion blur or even camera shake in the final image.

If your shooting with an 85 mm lens I'd recommend a minimum shutter speed of 100 for taking pictures of non moving subjects, this should eliminate camera shake. For moving subjects you'll want to increase the shutter speed to eliminate motion blur, the faster your subject moves the higher shutter speed you'll need to eliminate blur.

Since most of what I shoot moves I generally use shutter priority rather than aperture priority, but when aperture is important I will use aperture priority and set my shutter speed manually.

A lot of cameras will also allow you to set a minimum shutter speed so you can use Av mode without having to worry so much about adjusting the shutter speed between shooting situations.


This. ^^^^

Can't tell you how many times I've had to switch to shutter or manual from Aperture priority due to camera shake...
 
Sure! i will take photos indoors with the same settings and upload them here...

What resources can i check online to get an in-depth analysis of what i am doing right and what i'm doing wrong... I don't want to pay for tutorials....
What software should i use for photo editing and to get a good bokeh?
Also i want to convert my pictures to sepia mode... and my Canon 70D camera only has greyscale! ANY SOFTWARE FOR MAC THAT CAN HELP ME achieve my goal ??
I can suggest a website, but it will help a lot if we can see an example of what your problem is.

To be clear; the term "bokeh" refers to the quality of blur, not just blur. The quality of blur is inherent in a lens, and will vary depending on the design and construction of a particular lens. Some lenses have "bokeh" and others just have bone-jaring blur.

I use Aperture3, which has a Sepia option.

Please state your goal in precise terms.
 
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In AV mode with the onboard flash the camera assumes you want "fill" light. In order for me to handhold indoors in AV mode I like to set the flash sync to 1/60-1/200. This will not allow the shutter to drop below 1/60. 1/200 is the max flash sync speed with the onboard flash on the Canon T5i. This may no be the best option in many cases but it does work.
 
Your shutter speed gets slower than you can hand hold the camera steady enough. It's a good idea that no matter which exposure mode you're using M, Av, Tv or P always checking the aperture and shutter speed in use.
 

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