Best settings for fall scenery?

[annamaria]

Hey all going to try to shoot some fall scenery today with my D5100 18-55 and 55-300 lens. It's cloudy and some rain. What settings would be best?

 

[jsecordphoto]

Nobody will be able to give you good advice on what settings to use. Each scene will require different exposure values, settings will vary depending on any artistic effect you may want (blurred water, etc).

 

[Derrel]

You can, if you like, boost the saturation a bit on cloudy, rainy days, since there's pretty low contrast on days like that. WIND blurring leaves can be an issue on days like that, so a tripod and slightly higher than normal ISO settings will help eliminate some of the slow-speed blurring that happens when you are in that 1/15 second at f/8 range.

WAITING until the wind dies down is often helpful. And again, camera support, like a tripod, monopod, railing, car roof + beanbag, or VR, something to help keep the camera and lens steady is helpful. There is no magic bullet. Using the longer zoom lens, you can probably pick out some small clusters of branches and leaves, and selectively focus on those using f/6.3 to f/8 and a telephoto setting, and showcasing those smaller aspects of fall.

You can also shoot upward, from underneath trees, and get some semi-transparent effects.

 

[annamaria]

Thanks all!!! Appreciate it. Heading out now wish me luck.

 

[vintagesnaps]

Guess it might be too late now, lol but I'd probably start out around 400 ISO (that's what speed film I'd probably use) and I don't go slower than 1/125 or maybe 1/60 unless I'm losing light (and then brace myself). If whatever I'm taking pictures of is not too far away I'd probably use a middle of the road aperture; if it's a scene off in the distance a smaller aperture.

Depends on what the meter is telling you, adjust to get more or less light coming into the camera by either opening or closing the lens, setting to a slower or faster shutter speed, or raise or lower the ISO. As you change your vantage point check the meter reading and adjust as needed, the direction you're facing might change the amount of light your camera's getting.

 

[annamaria]

No, not too late vintagesnaps. I can use the info for my next trip out.

I did not have much luck getting evening shots of deer as it was pretty dark. I tried different settings using manual, but was not too successful. I will be posting some pics when I get the chance to see if I can get some advice on what I did wrong.

 

[Light Guru]

What settings would be best?

The ones that give you the image you see in your head.

There are no "best settings" every scene is different so different camera settings would be needed.

Don't rely on "best settings" learn the exposure triangle.

 

[annamaria]

What settings would be best?

The ones that give you the image you see in your head.

There are no "best settings" every scene is different so different camera settings would be needed.

Don't rely on "best settings" learn the exposure triangle.

I have been trying to learn as much as I can and playing with manual through trial and error as well. I do agree with you.

 

[annamaria]

Guess it might be too late now, lol but I'd probably start out around 400 ISO (that's what speed film I'd probably use) and I don't go slower than 1/125 or maybe 1/60 unless I'm losing light (and then brace myself). If whatever I'm taking pictures of is not too far away I'd probably use a middle of the road aperture; if it's a scene off in the distance a smaller aperture.

Depends on what the meter is telling you, adjust to get more or less light coming into the camera by either opening or closing the lens, setting to a slower or faster shutter speed, or raise or lower the ISO. As you change your vantage point check the meter reading and adjust as needed, the direction you're facing might change the amount of light your camera's getting.

Thank you and wanted to let you know I had replied.

 

[annamaria]

You can, if you like, boost the saturation a bit on cloudy, rainy days, since there's pretty low contrast on days like that. WIND blurring leaves can be an issue on days like that, so a tripod and slightly higher than normal ISO settings will help eliminate some of the slow-speed blurring that happens when you are in that 1/15 second at f/8 range.

WAITING until the wind dies down is often helpful. And again, camera support, like a tripod, monopod, railing, car roof + beanbag, or VR, something to help keep the camera and lens steady is helpful. There is no magic bullet. Using the longer zoom lens, you can probably pick out some small clusters of branches and leaves, and selectively focus on those using f/6.3 to f/8 and a telephoto setting, and showcasing those smaller aspects of fall.

You can also shoot upward, from underneath trees, and get some semi-transparent effects.

Thank you Derrell for your advice. Always appreciate it.