C&C and a Question

[H4X1MA]

The question spawns from #1. In the original the white on the rocks was a little blown out, and the tree's around the waterfall seem over-exposed. What do you do when you run into a situation where you know this is going to happen? Is there anything?

#2 I just wanted to try a variation of B&W. In PS I used Accented Edges, Color Balance Mask, Invert Mask, and a B&W Mask.

#3 and #4 are handheld, be easy lol

1. Bristol Falls, VT


2. Fish trying to eat my feet


3. Handheld Moon


4. Handheld Moon

 

[H4X1MA]

Nothin?

 

[tirediron]

Patience young grasshopper; less than an hour is hardly enough time to need to bump your post. C&C per req: 1. I think the composition of this could have been improved by moving farther to the left and having more water and less bank. With respect to your question about the dynamic range, in a case like #1, about the only way to achieve it is through high-dynamic range merge; that is, taking a series of images exposing for the highlights, shadows, and mid-tones and then using software to merge the best of each image into one which has a much wider dynamic range than your camera can capture. I'm afraid #2 does nothing for me, and #s 3 and 4 are hand-held shots of the moon and clouds. 'Nuff said.

Just my $00.02 worth - your mileage may vary.

~John

 

[H4X1MA]

It was 23 hours

I see what you are saying with #1. I was concentrating more on the shoreline going into the corner of my lense.

I also see what you are saying with the multiple shots and then merging. I have actually done this before but didn't know if there was a way to do it without multiple shots. Isn't what you're talking about actually an HDR variation?

 

[scorpion_tyr]

If your question about #1 refers to the image being over exposed due to a long shutter speed your answer is a neutral density filter. If your aperture and iso are at the minimum (ie: 22 and 100) and the shutter speed needed to get the motion of the waterfall is too long and over exposes your image, get a ND filter. It's like sunglasses for your camera and it'll reduce the amount of light entering your lens, therefore allowing you to have a long shutter speed without overexposure.

 

[bigtwinky]

I'll probably repeat what has been said, but I'm really good at that.

#1 The issue is a common issue where the dynamic range in the image is too great for the camera to fully capture in one shot. Some parts are at the dark end and some are at the light end. If you expose for the dark areas, the bright areas get blown out. If you expose for the light areas, the dark areas get clipped and way too dark. While your eye can see the variations, your camera cannot.

Two ways to get a desired result. Take 3+ images at varying exposure levels. Lets say you take one that is 2 stops under exposed, so you get the light areas well exposed. Then another generically exposed, and then a third that is 2 stops over exposed, which will bring out the details in the darks. Merge these 3 images with software such as Photomatix or CS5. Or, you can use layer masks in photoshop (or PS-Elements) to mask in the areas and build the picture as you want.

If you shot the image, can't go back, and only have 1 image to show for it (tsk tsk), then I really hope you shot RAW. With the RAW file, using any photo manipulation software that works with RAW, open the image and bring the exposure down by 2. Save As DARK. Go back to the image, put the exposure up by 2. Save As LIGHT. Go back to the image, put the exposure to the middle. Save as MIDDLE. You now have your 3 images you can merge. Note that this is manipulating the pixels and will not always yield as great a result as if you actually shot 3 individual RAW files. But ghetto HDR does work.
If you want a less software approach, you can use Neutral Density filters (aka ND). For this situation, you'd need a gradual ND filter where the top is dark and it gradually goes to nothing. So putting the dark area of the filter over the sky and the transparent area over the trees and bottom of the frame will make a more consistent light situation. There are some filter setups (I use Cokin) that allow you to slide square filters in a system that is hooked on to your lens, allowing you to adjust where the gradient is as you need.

#2 Good on you for trying something new. It's by practice that we get better and learn. I hope you learned not to do this again.
Seriously though, it's a psychodelic BW of some odd alien foot that looks like it's landing on the mood. Reminds me of some filters in my iPhone

#3 and #4 Not much of interest going on. If you were practicing hand holding, then have a zoom in to see how sharp the image is. Other than that, I find the moon is WAY too far back in the frame to make a compelling image.

Oh, and the cloud formation in #4 looks like an anus.

 

[oldmacman]

Oh, and the cloud formation in #4 looks like an anus.

Is that a good or bad thing.

 

[bennielou]

The moon shot is terrific. The foot shot is pretty freaky. But the moon shot redeems you.

 

[bigtwinky]

Oh, and the cloud formation in #4 looks like an anus.

Is that a good or bad thing.

neither and both?

 

[H4X1MA]

lol, an anus, epic. I didn't see that >.<

I actually did shoot the waterfall with an ND, it's a variable ND filter so I guess I just havn't figured out how to use it yet. I will definately start shooting 3 different exposures for scenes like this.

 

[KmH]

The scene may require more than 3 exposures. Three exposures is the minimum needed. Two or 3 times as many exposures may be needed.

The best practice is to spot meter the darkest part of the scene and the brightest part of the scene.

That tells what the total dynamic range is. It's a good idea to spot meter several intermediate spots too, so you can decide how many steps of exposure are needed to accurately image the full dynamic range in the scene.

That is the starting point for making an HDR image. There are many subsequent post process steps that need to be taken to wind up with a good looking finished image.

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/high-dynamic-range.htm