I agree about staying with the same brand of camera that YOU use.
The primary reason is so that you can help her.
I shoot Nikon and I often had problem when a student wanted help with their Canon. I was "stumped/confused."
The Canon does the same things as the Nikon, but DIFFERENTLY. And it is those differences that was confusing for me.
There are operational differences between the 2-wheel pro/semi-pro cameras that you have, and the 1-wheel entry/consumer cameras. But those are easier to deal with than the difference between Canon and Nikon.
Secondly, she can use some of your EF/EF-S lenses on her EF-S camera.
Camera:
I am not familiar with the current line of Canon dSLRS.
READ the specs. The camera specs have to match your requirements.
Caution, Canon has a T7 which is often confused with the older (now discontinued) T7i. But, they are two very different cameras. To me, the T7 is a "crippled" T7i. Compare the specs.
The T7 is fine as a day-time camera, but NOT for shooting in LOW light level. That is one place where Canon crippled the T7.
For a day-time camera, even the old obsolete T3i will work just fine.
KEH (used gear) has the T7i for $590, and the newer T8i for $650 (new about $750).
Canon USA refurbished
Canon Refurbished Cameras & Accessories | Canon U.S.A, Inc. Currently no cameras listed.
Lenses:
I highly recommend the Canon 18-135 as her primary GP lens.
I use the Nikon 18-140 as my GP lens, and I love it. And I made the Canon 18-135 and Nikon 18-140 the standard lens for my school's yearbook and sports leadership cameras.
Alternatively, the 18-55 is a smaller/lighter lens. But, then if she wants more reach than 55mm, she will need a 2nd longer lens. Whereas the 135 on the 18-135 may be long enough to not need a 2nd longer lens, for more situations.
Caution: in MANY 2-lens kits, 18-55 + 70-300 (or similar); the 18-55 is stabilized, but the longer lens IS NOT stabilized. IMHO, the longer lens NEEDS to be stabilized more so than the 18-55.
Example.
B&H has a kit, T7 (NOT the T7i) + 18-55 + 70-300 for $600. This seems like a good deal. But personally, I would NOT buy it because of the unstabilized 70-300. I would build my own kit with the lens(es) that I want.
KEH (used gear) has the 18-135 for $200 (note, the 18-135 is not currently included as a kit lens for any of the Canon non-pro cameras. It used to be available as an alternate kit lens with the T7i, which is how the school bought it; T7i + 18-135.)
Other:
She will be taking photography next year, but . . . does she have any desire to shoot high school sports or theater.
She may want to take pictures of her classmates.
The reason for that question is, sport and theater place a different requirement on the gear than "general" photography. Many high school sports are at night, under lights or in the gym. A camera and lens that is just fine for daytime shooting may NOT work for gym, night sports or theater. The problem is the LOW LIGHT levels in those venues.
At my school, the only sports which are DAY time only are: track and field, tennis, baseball, softball and swimming.
The rest are afternoon/night or in the gym.
I say this because I am a photo advisor at the local high school. And I have had students wanting to take pictures in the gym or on the field at night, and their cameras and lens are just not up to taking pictures in the LOW light conditions.
If I am shooting at ISO 12800 at f/4, they have to shoot at ISO 25600 at f/5.6. Their cameras max out at ISO 6400, or less, and their lens maxes at f/5.6. So rather than shooting at 1/800 sec, they have to shoot at 1/200 sec or slower, and struggle with subject motion blur, or have underexposed images. And the situation is worse at another school, with a DIMMER field. Same situation in the gym for basketball and volleyball.
The theater is also DIM. But at least the performers are not moving FAST, like the athletes on the field or court.
Actually, if your daughter goes into performing arts or sports, it will be YOU taking those pictures.
