Canon 100mm F2.8

If you use a lens like the 60mm or MPE65, the minimum focus distance may be too close for it to be mounted directly to the camera. Not sure

Think I can help a little on the EF-S 60mm option as that's the lens I use. First thing I would say is that it's a very useful general purpose lens as well as a macro. For me it gets used for portraits (equiv to 96mm on a full frame sensor), still life and short telephoto stuff.

For me, it's key limitation is the working distance required to make use of its 1:1 capability. To do that, you're just 200mm from your subject, which is really hard to work with at time, especially if you are relying on "on-camera" flash to light things. When working at that range, the tendency is for the light to be directed slightly over the subject - more so with the taller 580EX than the 430EX. The other thing I've found is that if you use something like the Lumiquest Softbox on the flash at close range, you tend to get a bit caught up in vegitation at times. Also, some insects just don't like you being close enough to them to get a useable image size on the sensor.

Now that sounds all a bit negative, which it isn't intended to be, more something to be aware of if you went down that route. It is still a fantastically sharp and well sorted lens to have in the bag. I am though thinking of looking at the 100mm macro myself though, just to give me a more useable working distance.
 
What about the sigma 150mm f2.8 macro? That has a longer focal range and thus a longer working distance if you are concerned about that aspect.
http://www.sigma-imaging-uk.com/lenses/macro/150mm.htm

its a good lens and also not much more in cost than the canon (remember that the canon 100mm comes without the tripod collor and I think also without the lenshood - whilst the sigma comes with both - add those components into the cost and the prices are very similar(
 
I have no experience with the Sigma macro (although, as you see below, I love Sigma lenses). 100mm is about the longest macro I would feel comfortable with for routine use (on my crop-focus 30D) because it is so good up close but retains lots of utility outside the macro realm and is even a very good walk-around lens. I would be afraid the 150mm would lose some of that all around versitility. (there are several pricey 180mm macros out there too).

The Tamron 90mm f2.8Macro has an excellent reputation as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Tamron-SP-Aut...2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1213188582&sr=8-2
 
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TC Images and man whose screen name I can't pronounce or write for that matter, your shots are incredible and just what I was looking to see. Thank you for your detailed information as well. I really want the lens now.
As an aside, can someone explain to me what AI servo is? Thanks
 
Julie, I just followed the link to your website. I think you'll also find many uses for that lens in your studio.
 
TC Images and man whose screen name I can't pronounce or write for that matter, your shots are incredible and just what I was looking to see. Thank you for your detailed information as well. I really want the lens now.
As an aside, can someone explain to me what AI servo is? Thanks
AI Servo is sometimes called 'continuous autofocus' as when you partially depress the shutter, it sets the focus, but continues to monitor the frame and refocuses if the camera or subject moves. On the recent Canon 40D, the Sports Basic Zone mode uses this method.

AI Focus mode allows switching between One Shot and AI Servo. I've been trying this mode with my 40D when shooting football (US soccer).
 
TC Images and man whose screen name I can't pronounce or write for that matter, your shots are incredible and just what I was looking to see. Thank you for your detailed information as well. I really want the lens now.
As an aside, can someone explain to me what AI servo is? Thanks

:), I assume that is me. |)\/8 = deviate

1 : to stray especially from a standard, principle, or topic
2 : to depart from an established course or norm

AI servo is used when your subject is continually moving as stated in the last post. Thanks for the compliment.
 
Yep, maybe you can write it off as a business expense :)

Thanks for the compliment.
 
Julie, there is one downside to the AI Servo mode, you can't reframe your shot. You'll lose your focus point. You can change some settings to allow you to lock the focus, but this really defeats the purpose. Once you lock the focus and reframe the DOF is so thin it will casue you to miss the focus point. I hope that makes sense.

It's recommended that you use manual focus, but I honestly have more keepers with AI Servo. Focus on the insects eyes and snap.
 
Julie, there is one downside to the AI Servo mode, you can't reframe your shot. You'll lose your focus point. You can change some settings to allow you to lock the focus, but this really defeats the purpose. Once you lock the focus and reframe the DOF is so thin it will casue you to miss the focus point. I hope that makes sense.

It's recommended that you use manual focus, but I honestly have more keepers with AI Servo. Focus on the insects eyes and snap.

The only times where insects stay still long enough to let you take more time with focusing tend to be (from my readings) in the early morning when they are still warming up. Also sometimes they will sit still for a reasonable while. I would certainly use AI servo, but also get in some good practise with manual mode as well
 
when you say manual are you referring to focus or M mode vs. Av or Tv mode. I tend to use Av most of the time unless I need to freeze action.

Good question. I'm actually referring to the focus mode. If you shoot in manual focus mode, I find it's best not to use the focus ring to focus, instead move your body or the camera in and out from the subject to achieve focus. I hope that makes sense. Its so much easier with AI Servo though.
 

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