Chrysler 300 M.......should I buy it?

[astroNikon]

back when I worked in automotive we supplied parts to the big 3. Chryslers design specifications MTBF for Failures was 3 to a max of 5 years. So, they didn't mind if parts broke after 3 years. Everyone else was 5 or higher. If I recall correctly ... :/

I found a great '98 Acura TL (2.5) w/130k miles for my son about a month ago locally for $1500 (didn't end up buying it though ). Don't forget to look at the up-scale versions of Toyota and Honda!

I'd buy a cadillac myself (inside joke)

 

[BobSaget]

If I was in the market for a beater, I'd have to go with something common enough to get a lot of parts from the junk yard. Nothing consumable or prone to wearing out, but I've been driving a Grand Cherokee and have a great time at my local pull a part. Replaced my bumper for $30, weather stripping for $10. changed out a lock solenoid for like $15 while manufactures replacement was $90.

 

[usayit]

I personally would hesitate on German and American cars over 100k on the clock. Toyota, Honda, and Nissan, I would still consider.

btw... I'm not anti-american car. In fact most of my vehicles have been American; Plymouth Duster, Jeep Wrangler YJ, Dodge Neon SRT, Dodge Journey, and a Chevy Sonic LTZ turbo. Its just that I generally have owned them from when they have little mileage and know exactly what I'm getting. I also make sure parts are available and repairs are relatively easy. I do most of my own work. Either that or I consider them as throw away cars.... drive them until they die and get another. They are worked in as an expense of a long working commute.

Now German cars... as much as I like them... are PITA to work on, parts are expensive, and when they fail... they really fail. I'm pretty convinced that German cars today are designed to be short termed leased. You only need to look pretty on the lot and last enough for 3 years. Its part of the reason for the high MSRP.... its a pricing strategy specifically designed to be leased and then have a higher than normal residual to provide the perception of good value. They are kinda like a lot of clothing you find in stores. They look nice on the rack. They look nice for a while. Then its time to chunk them for another.

I had a 2001 Audi TT Quattro that had a complete engine failure at 65k miles... even POS cars can hit 100,000 miles with basic maintenance. The more I worked on it, the more I hated it. I did like to drive it though... looked pretty too.

So far, my best vehicle was the Jeep YJ. Its so basic and parts are cheap that I could easily work on it in my school's parking lot. Until it hit 150k, it was pretty darn reliable too (popped a hydrolic clutch line in the middle of a forest. It leaked rainwater inside but hey... I ripped out the carpet and lined the inside with roll on truck bed liner and opened up the drain holes. Front bumper was repaired with a couple cinder blocks and sledge hammer.... rear bumperette was $25 at a junk yard. Second best was my 1997 Mazda Miata.... again... very basic, parts easily available, parts cheap, very easy to work on.


But for the OP's needs, stick with the Japanese vehicles that have a longer history of reliability past the 200,000 mile mark.

 

[BobSaget]

Now German cars... as much as I like them... are PITA to work on, parts are expensive, and when they fail... they really fail. .

My favorite car was my 89 325i. but yeah, when they break, they're complicated to repair. I actually took on replacement of its timing belt and though successful, was quite and undertaking.