Circular Polarizers

Garbz · Mar 1, 2009

The coatings play a big role. The basic idea is to get a filter with coatings. That's about it. Coatings reduce reflections, reflections are bad. There's a big difference between a Hoya standard CPL and a Hoya HMC CPL. There is very little difference between a Hoya HMC, Hoya SHMC, Hoya Pro1, or any botique brand of filters.

Also I don't own a lens that I have experienced vignetting from thick cheap Hoya standard filters even on 35mm cameras. This really only starts to play a roll on ultra wide lenses like the Sigma 10-20mm.

skieur said:
The trick for judging a polarizing filter is to hold it in front of you to reflect a light or window behind you. The one with the weakest reflection is the best polarizer.

Actually the one with the lowest drop in brightness, and most even effect is the best. Perfect polarisation is easy to achieve even on low quality filters. Perfectly even polarisation across the filter is not.

kinosoo · Mar 1, 2009

iv been quite happy with Rodenstock , would not recomend the cheaper hoya, tiffen ect. why spend thousands on gear to slap a 60$ fliter on the end of it all.

second what people are saying with a polarizer and hood, if your trying to adjust it with the hood on you will most likely get fingerprints all over it so i would not bother.

one other thing to keep in mind is many high end polarizers are slim type (there all my local shop stocks) meaning there no threds on the outside. this is to prevent vignetting. things to rember are you can't then put you lens cap on or using the method discribed by "Overread". I just have an extra large lens cloth i wrap around if i am changing locations and want to keep the fliter on. may not be a big deal, unless you got a super wide or a full frame. iv only used slim type so can't say for shure.

puyjapin · Mar 1, 2009

beware some of the generic lens hoods that screw on will show on the edge of photos at certain focal distances

mitsugirly · Mar 1, 2009

skieur said:
The trick for judging a polarizing filter is to hold it in front of you to reflect a light or window behind you. The one with the weakest reflection is the best polarizer.

skieur

I'm looking to buy one and trying to get opinions, so I don't have any that I could do that with yet.

Garbz said:
The coatings play a big role. The basic idea is to get a filter with coatings.

So I guess I didn't realize that all the Hoya's didn't come with the coatings on it. After reading a little more, it seems like only the HMC one's and up have the coatings. I'm glad I just discovered this before just purchasing any old Hoya.

kinosoo said:
iv been quite happy with Rodenstock , would not recomend the cheaper hoya, tiffen ect. why spend thousands on gear to slap a 60$ fliter on the end of it all.

I just bought the camera for fun, family pictures, vacation and things here and there. Although I'm trying to learn all the feature's and the neat things to do with the camera, I don't have that kind of money to spend on just a filter nor will I be able to spend thousands on gear. It's just a fun hobby (and my point and shoot broke-which I paid almost as much for it as I did the slr) and if buying a cheaper one gives me a little improvement, then I guess I'll be happy for now.

Thank you to everyone who gave me the tips and suggestions. Now it's time to go find a semi decent one that won't break me. :wink:

Garbz · Mar 1, 2009

Stupid search failed on me yesterday but check out this:
http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...100830-more-hoya-filter-comparison-tests.html

Take a look at specifically the Hoya Standard filter with regard to flare.

mitsugirly · Mar 1, 2009

Thanks for that link Garbz. I definately knew I wasn't getting the standard after I found out that it didn't have any coatings on it at all. Now I know the difference between the HMC and the SHMC. Thanks for taking the time to look that up for me.

smyth · Mar 3, 2009

Sorry, I don't mean to hijack, but Cokin filters: any good?

blash · Mar 4, 2009

However much the lens is new, take 10% of that, and that is the price for the filter you want. Anything more is a waste of money, anything less is a waste of optics.

Garbz · Mar 5, 2009

smyth said:
Sorry, I don't mean to hijack, but Cokin filters: any good?

From what I've heard yes, except for their not so neutral, neutral density filter.

blash said:
However much the lens is new, take 10% of that, and that is the price for the filter you want. Anything more is a waste of money, anything less is a waste of optics.

Absolute Hogwash. There's no need to spend $300 on a simple protector on a $3000 lens when a $70 gets you an optically identical top of the line filter from a company which doesn't have a fancy english or german name.

Same can also be said about buying a $150 50mm f/1.8. That's no reason not to use a good $40 multicoated filter. Unless you actually LIKE having flare covered blurry photos.

Price has never been a good indication of optical performance.