Clear and Vivid Colors

Generations of photographers who covered those venues with film stopped laughing at you long enough to call in and say you're pulling this stuff out of your butt - again - and they'd like you to please stop embarassing yourself. They added that if you don't have the timing to do such work that perhaps you should find some other line, like, say, still life.

Well, again I am told I have never had to shoot 40 frames in 10 seconds. The fact that you weren't there either means more than the fact I was. Apparently my experience is meaningless here..... My facts are worthless.
Again, generations of film shooters covered all those events without "having" to resort to ripping 40 frames at a crack in 10 seconds. Few even had 40 frames at a crack to work with, since most didn't use large magazines. Some of the most famously timed and shot photos in history were done with a press camera like a Speed Graphic.

If you have to shoot an entire movie and then pick out a frame from it in order to get a shot, maybe you should call yourself a videographer instead of a photographer.
 
NOOOOOOO DON'T ADVOCATE SHOOTING JPEG!!! :lmao:

Might also want to work on reading comprehension as well if you can't understand what I am stating is personal opinion and not a blanket statement of advice for any particular shooter.

I-Statements

See: Inability to discern textual based sarcasm in a forum setting through use of emoticons.

See:
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Thanks guys for replying.

How about a polarized lens filter?
The auto focus and metering systems in DSLR cameras require a circular polarizing (CPL) filter be used.
A CPL filter is most effective when the Sun is less than 30° above the horizon and at 90° to the lens focal length axis (the side).

Oh, I get it. Thanks
 
I shoot raw for sports. I am not holding my shutter down non stop and I haven't run into a problem. Good fast cards and I am good to go. I am not needing to shoot 20-30 seconds worth of continuous. Maybe 3 or 4 at the VERY WORST. Works fine for me!
 
Really? Just 5%?
Depends on what you shoot, of course.

For me, 5% sounds about right.

If I use one 5% of the time or need one 5% of the time? That's HIGH. It really does depend what you shoot

I just rounded. If I consider the amount of pictures I took with a CPL, I'm sure is less. But I'm lazy, so I imagined sometimes I could use it but I do not. Plus a couple of situations where I could use it but I do not know is useful :).

Tecboy: CPL is useful -and effect vividness- only in certain, specific conditions; in those, it cannot be substituted by postprocessing. The rest is vivid scene, good exposure, good postprocessing.
 
I don't own any quality filters so I don't use them. Nothing like having even semi-quality glass and sticking $4 plastic in front of it.
 
Polarizing filters help in darkening clear sky, with the effect being strongest about 90 degrees away from the sun. They also help in reducing glare from reflections on glass, water, shiny leaves, etc. So in certain landscapes, the foilage can be a deeper colour. You can see deeper into water (something fishermen know - that's why they wear polarizing lenses). But if you shoot urban landscape, people, and any scene where non-metallic reflective surfaces are not present, the CPL won't help you much. There are also advanced techniques where crossed polarizers are used, but these are probably beyond the scope of this post.
 
Can you shoot HDR in RAW?
 
A well exposed photo in good light.
Add reasonable saturation and contrast.
Levels adjustment to get your whites white and your blacks black.
Check colors with the eyedroppers.
 

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