color calibration

[markc]

Would I be able to find a profile for my printer and that paper?

I doubt it, unless Staples bothered to do so. People usually don't bother with profiles for cheap paper, as the average user doesn't even know about them, let alone use them. Sometimes you will find profiles out there that someone has made and decided to share with others.

The Canon paper can look better because it's better paper, or simply because the Canon printer knows exactly how much ink to lay down for that kind of paper. The Staples paper is going to behave differently and may not absorb all the ink and run, or migh absorb too much of it and look dull. I would run a test of each type available in the drop-down and see what looks best.

Using profiles: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=29530
Looks like some Canon printers come with profiles: http://www.steves-digicams.com/techcorner/June_2005.html
Here are some cheaper profiles, if you can't find free ones: http://www.ddisoftware.com/printerprofiles/
Found some for Kodak inkjet paper: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/prof...nters/ICCProfiles.jhtml?id=0.1.14.30.23&lc=en

If you can't find the right ones, try the Kodak ones. You don't have to change the image at all to test it. Just make a print, and see if it looks close to the softproof with the profile applied. The cool thing is that you can have lots of profiles installed and just choose the right one for the job at hand.

 

[markc]

carolwrite, does the lab you had the images printed at have a profile available? Do they have a website?

 

[Big Mike]

So when you "softproof"...what are you doing? Changing the color space profile just to see what it looks like? or is it something different.

 

[markc]

There's an actual softproof function in Photoshop and some other programs. Color space is the color the actual image data is in. Softproofing just applies a translation map while you are looking at it. It only changes how the image looks while you are editing it. Just pick the profile, and *poof*, the image looks like it will when it's printed. You can then make changes to get it just right. Using the example from above, if the paper is warm, everything will have a slight yellow/brown tint to it.
http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/profiles.htm#SoftProofing
Lot of info on this page, but it's partway down: http://www.computer-darkroom.com/ps9_colour/ps9_1.htm

 

[Big Mike]

Thanks again

 

[carolwrite]

carolwrite, does the lab you had the images printed at have a profile available? Do they have a website?

Yes, there is a website. What have I missed?

 

[markc]

Yes, there is a website. What have I missed?

I was going to check to see if they had a profile for proofing available. Calibrating your monitor will help, but if you want your prints to be as accurate as possible, you'll want to use a printer profile as well.

 

[WDodd]

Mike did you ever get your printer calibrated and working correctly? Sounds like you have to send a sample print away to get an ICC profile for your ink, paper, printer combination?

Are there default profiles that will get it close?

 

[sfaribault]

Yes, Spyder2 is compatible with CRT and LCD (flat panel & laptop) screens.

I got Spyder2 Express and installed it just minutes ago...so far, so good.

Just ordered.. on sale for $55.

Steve

 

[PaulBennett]

Work with the file WITHOUT the proofing icc profile applied.
When you are done, keep this MASTER image file, suitable named.
Apply the icc proofing file, tweak the image bring it back to the original.
Save the resultant proofed image file, suitable named.

This allows you to print with a DIFFERENT print system later on by going back to the MASTER image file.