Conquering the streets

[hamlet]

I have been trying to improve my readiness for street photography, but either my targets know i'm about to take their picture or i miss the shot completely because i'm still fiddling with my exposure. How can i catch my subjects in the act of being human instead of the other way around?

 

[pixmedic]

I have been trying to improve my readiness for street photography, but either my targets know i'm about to take their picture or i miss the shot completely because i'm still fiddling with my exposure. How can i catch my subjects in the act of being human instead of the other way around?

long lens + bushes

 

[Juga]

I have been trying to improve my readiness for street photography, but either my targets know i'm about to take their picture or i miss the shot completely because i'm still fiddling with my exposure. How can i catch my subjects in the act of being human instead of the other way around?

long lens + bushes

If you don't want to be a creep...use a long lens, set your shutter speed and aperture but use auto ISO...just my inexperienced recommendation.

 

[hamlet]

That gives me an idea.

 

[limr]

Because speed is an element in street photography, you might be more successful shooting on a day when the weather isn't changing its mind every three seconds. If it's a nice sunny day, set your exposure and don't think about it at all after that. The next thing to think about is focus. If you have auto focus, then it will take care of that for you, but you might want to try manual or even zone focus. I'm just getting used to zone focus myself, but essentially it means you are taking pictures of things that are a certain distance away, and your camera is already set to focus on things that are that same certain distance away. Sometimes you'll get the focus on your subject and sometimes it will be a bit off, but the trick is to just keep shooting. And with street photos, sometimes 'close enough' is still good

If you use auto exposure settings and want to try the zone focus method, you can set the camera to aperture priority at...if I remember correctly, it's f11 or f8. It will give good clarity and good depth of field so the area that will be in focus will be larger. So, say everything between 5 and 15 meters is in focus with those settings and something is happening 7 meters away, then you can just worry about framing the picture without worrying about exposure or focus. Larger apertures will give you less room to play with so your distance judgements have to be much more accurate.

That's the theory, anyway. As I said, I've not had a lot of success with this yet, mostly because I don't practice it that often and also because I'm kind of crap at judging distances. I've been manually focusing for so long that it's pretty much second nature to me, so when I'm out trying to get some street shots, I just make my shutter and aperture settings, leave them where they are, and just frame and focus as quickly as I can.

 

[The_Traveler]

I have been trying to improve my readiness for street photography, but either my targets know i'm about to take their picture or i miss the shot completely because i'm still fiddling with my exposure. How can i catch my subjects in the act of being human instead of the other way around?

An absolute requirement for getting good street shots is being comfortable and skillful with your camera; so skillful that any changes you need to make can be done almost without looking and instantly.

I shoot aperture preferred and use exposure compensation to manage exposures. I keep the camera at my waist until I see a shot developing and change the desired aperture and exposure compensation before I raise the camera. Generally I make the exposure as soon as the camera reaches my eye.

If you have to fiddle with the settings when the camera is at your eye, the shot will be gone.

It 's not like shooting trees or flowers, there is no do overs. See the shot and get it.
If you can't learn to visualize shots in advance and get to them, you will never get good at street shooting.

Without false modesty, I think I am fairly decent at street shooting and I am still jubilant if I go out for a shoot and get one good shot. If I get what I think is a really good shot, I am happy for a week.

 

[hamlet]

Because speed is an element in street photography, you might be more successful shooting on a day when the weather isn't changing its mind every three seconds. If it's a nice sunny day, set your exposure and don't think about it at all after that. The next thing to think about is focus. If you have auto focus, then it will take care of that for you, but you might want to try manual or even zone focus. I'm just getting used to zone focus myself, but essentially it means you are taking pictures of things that are a certain distance away, and your camera is already set to focus on things that are that same certain distance away. Sometimes you'll get the focus on your subject and sometimes it will be a bit off, but the trick is to just keep shooting. And with street photos, sometimes 'close enough' is still good

If you use auto exposure settings and want to try the zone focus method, you can set the camera to aperture priority at...if I remember correctly, it's f11 or f8. It will give good clarity and good depth of field so the area that will be in focus will be larger. So, say everything between 5 and 15 meters is in focus with those settings and something is happening 7 meters away, then you can just worry about framing the picture without worrying about exposure or focus. Larger apertures will give you less room to play with so your distance judgements have to be much more accurate.

That's the theory, anyway. As I said, I've not had a lot of success with this yet, mostly because I don't practice it that often and also because I'm kind of crap at judging distances. I've been manually focusing for so long that it's pretty much second nature to me, so when I'm out trying to get some street shots, I just make my shutter and aperture settings, leave them where they are, and just frame and focus as quickly as I can.

This will help me a great deal, ty. I am also liking manual focus more and more everyday.

 

[bratkinson]

As mentioned above, a long lens and have your camera in ready-to-shoot mode. Ie, have all the settings you desire already in the camera then wait for the right moment, point and shoot. As also mentioned above, auto-focus is a necessity as 'fooling around' to get manually focused, change settings, etc, 'the shot' is long gone. I recently went out with my 135 and after I saw the results when I got home, I should have kept it mounted longer than I did, before swapping it for the 24-105.

Two things that I do when I do street photography (usually alone on a business day downtown), I'll keep the camera in Av or full manual. But as I go from lighting situation to lighting situation, such as into/out of shadows, shooting from light to shadow or vice versa, I frequently take a shot and look at the image in the LCD. Then make whatever exposure adjustments needed. Then, when 'the shot' comes along, aim and shoot in a second or so. I've even taken shots with the camera at my hip (I use a handstrap on my camera) so the subject wasn't even aware I took his picture. I simply straighted out the shot in post.

Lastly, shooting RAW, there's enough lee-way in post processing that I can bump up/down the exposure/highlights/darks/midtones that being slightly over or under exposed can be easily corrected. JPGs have some exposure latitude, but not always.

 

[pgriz]

A photographer I know takes many images of street people. They are very well composed and the subjects are fully aware that they are being photographed yet they appear without belligerence or animosity. I asked him how he did it. He told me that he would be in a place for hours, sometimes days, until the locals knew him and accepted him. He would gain their trust by showing them what he shot of them and they learned to trust him to take pretty good and powerful images. He got to know them as people, and his images show that.

 

[limr]

There are times when I'll settle myself in one spot, find the overall view I'd like, set the camera and focus, and then sit back and wait for something to happen. Sometimes nothing does happen, but it doesn't matter because sitting for a little while with a coffee or beer isn't a bad thing But remember that 'the decisive moment' doesn't have to be a huge thing, and if you're actively looking for it, you might be more ready for it. At times like that, I might look at every pedestrian that goes by as potential subjects and I start paying attention to interactions, facial expressions, etc.

As I type this, it occurs to me another reason why I found myself drawn to street photography. I love to people-watch. I don't like much actual interaction with said people, but they are fascinating creatures to watch. Even without a camera, I'll just sit back sometimes and enjoy the show. It seemed natural for me to start having a camera with me to try to get a scene or two.

As mentioned before, anticipating action can give you that second or two you need to get the camera to your face and take the shot that is about to happen. Once you're used to watching and paying attention to little things that you normally wouldn't look twice at (someone crossing the road for example), you'll probably start anticipating as well.

 

[sashbar]

I have been trying to improve my readiness for street photography, but either my targets know i'm about to take their picture or i miss the shot completely because i'm still fiddling with my exposure. How can i catch my subjects in the act of being human instead of the other way around?

long lens + bushes

Yes, buy a tele and grow a bush..

If seriously, long lens is not the best option for street photography outside some street portraits. It flattens and narrows the perspective and gives you a feeling that you do not belong there.

 

[ronlane]

Use Aperture priority or Program Mode. From a lot of the youtube video's that I have seen this is what is used most of the time. I like using AV when I'm out, it just makes it easier. I usually leave it on f/8 and go from there.

 

[hamlet]

There are times when I'll settle myself in one spot, find the overall view I'd like, set the camera and focus, and then sit back and wait for something to happen. Sometimes nothing does happen, but it doesn't matter because sitting for a little while with a coffee or beer isn't a bad thing But remember that 'the decisive moment' doesn't have to be a huge thing, and if you're actively looking for it, you might be more ready for it. At times like that, I might look at every pedestrian that goes by as potential subjects and I start paying attention to interactions, facial expressions, etc.

As I type this, it occurs to me another reason why I found myself drawn to street photography. I love to people-watch. I don't like much actual interaction with said people, but they are fascinating creatures to watch. Even without a camera, I'll just sit back sometimes and enjoy the show. It seemed natural for me to start having a camera with me to try to get a scene or two.

As mentioned before, anticipating action can give you that second or two you need to get the camera to your face and take the shot that is about to happen. Once you're used to watching and paying attention to little things that you normally wouldn't look twice at (someone crossing the road for example), you'll probably start anticipating as well.

What will people think of me if i sit on the Sidewalk café taking pictures of people? They will think i'm some pompous 19h century aristocrat. I need to be in the action. I need to find a way to get upclose and personal and get them before they recognize what's going on. Some deceptive strategy that won't blow my cover.

 

[hamlet]

A photographer I know takes many images of street people. They are very well composed and the subjects are fully aware that they are being photographed yet they appear without belligerence or animosity. I asked him how he did it. He told me that he would be in a place for hours, sometimes days, until the locals knew him and accepted him. He would gain their trust by showing them what he shot of them and they learned to trust him to take pretty good and powerful images. He got to know them as people, and his images show that.

I never thought about it like that. Perhaps that's a strategy i could try as one of the many.

 

[The_Traveler]

OP, you keep on posting like you think there is some sort of magic lens or special button or mystical technique that will MAKE YOU UNOBTRUSIVE.

There isn't.
What will get you good shots - and a good shot does not mean sneaking up on someone and catching them unawares - is actually being unobstrusive, not attracting attention by waving your camera around or by spending 30 seconds fiddling with the settings or by looking through the lens for a minute until you get the frame you want.
I shot for years with a large ff Nikon and huge 24-70 lens and did reasonably well.

So stop looking for a magic solution and just get out there and shoot and develop your skills.