crop duster plane

stevet1

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I tried to shoot a crop duster plane just about going overhead.
It was a bright sunny day, so I think I had the aperture set about right.
Thinking I would try and freeze frame the plane with no blur, I had the speed set to 3400th, but the ISO was set to 100.
My pictures came out virtually black.
Was my speed set too high, or my ISO too low?

Steve Thomas
 
What was the aperture? Based on an ISO of 100, an aperture of f16-22 and SS of 1/125 - 200 or variation thereof would have been about right.
 
I tried to shoot a crop duster plane just about going overhead.
It was a bright sunny day, so I think I had the aperture set about right.
Thinking I would try and freeze frame the plane with no blur, I had the speed set to 3400th, but the ISO was set to 100.
My pictures came out virtually black.
Was my speed set too high, or my ISO too low?
Aperture was not specified.

Exposure is determined by the aperture and shutter speed (time of opening).

Were you panning with the plane?

With an astonishing 1/3400 of a second shutter speed, I don't know how any average lens could get a large enough aperture to get a decent exposure.
 
Not sure of the aperture. I'm trying to use Canon FD lenses on an EF mount with an adapter that doesn't give feedback to the camera on what the aperture setting is. I have to guess.
Would have my aperture setting have been too low or too high?
Yes, I was panning - only had one or two seconds to try and grab the shot because of intervening trees.
Would a speed of about 1000th or even 200th have frozen the plane in flight?
I'm thinking 1/3400th was way, way too high.

Steve Thomas
 
Not sure of the aperture. I'm trying to use Canon FD lenses on an EF mount with an adapter that doesn't give feedback to the camera on what the aperture setting is. I have to guess.
Would have my aperture setting have been too low or too high?
Yes, I was panning - only had one or two seconds to try and grab the shot because of intervening trees.
Would a speed of about 1000th or even 200th have frozen the plane in flight?
I'm thinking 1/3400th was way, way too high.

Steve Thomas
Aviation Photography
 
I tried to shoot a crop duster plane just about going overhead.
It was a bright sunny day, so I think I had the aperture set about right.
Thinking I would try and freeze frame the plane with no blur, I had the speed set to 3400th, but the ISO was set to 100.
My pictures came out virtually black.
Was my speed set too high, or my ISO too low?
Aperture was not specified.

Exposure is determined by the aperture and shutter speed (time of opening).


And the ISO.
 
Not sure of the aperture. I'm trying to use Canon FD lenses on an EF mount with an adapter that doesn't give feedback to the camera on what the aperture setting is. I have to guess.
Would have my aperture setting have been too low or too high?
Yes, I was panning - only had one or two seconds to try and grab the shot because of intervening trees.
Would a speed of about 1000th or even 200th have frozen the plane in flight?
I'm thinking 1/3400th was way, way too high.

Steve Thomas


Freezing the plane in flight is more about panning with it. I have lots of shots of motorcycle racing and drag racing that were taken at 1/500 sec. The subject is sharp because I was panning with it and the background is blurred by the motion.

The exposure depends on three things...aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. A proper exposure can be achieved with lots of different combinations of the three. The ones you choose to use, ultimately are determined by what you want your shot to look like.
 
Dispute all you want, but it's a fact, not an opinion....

For prop planes, 1/125 works well if you are good at panning, 1/250 gives you more of a margin (higher likleyhood of getting the plane in focus), but the prop blur won't look as good.
 
Dispute all you want, but it's a fact, not an opinion....

For prop planes, 1/125 works well if you are good at panning, 1/250 gives you more of a margin (higher likleyhood of getting the plane in focus), but the prop blur won't look as good.
In case you missed it, I was the one who posted the link to Aviation Photography. (see post #5, above)

What I dispute is that ISO has anything to do with exposure. In digital technology, the ISO value is applied gain, which is considerably different than film sensitivity.

Your turn.
 
From the manual of my D4...


“ISO sensitivity” is the digital equivalent of film speed. Choose
from settings that range from ISO 100 and ISO 12800 in steps
equivalent to 1/3 EV. Settings of from about 0.3 to 1 EV below ISO
100 and 0.3 to 4 EV above ISO 12800 are also available for special
situations. The higher the ISO sensitivity, the less light needed to
make an exposure, allowing higher shutter speeds or smaller
apertures.
 
Dispute all you want, but it's a fact, not an opinion....

For prop planes, 1/125 works well if you are good at panning, 1/250 gives you more of a margin (higher likleyhood of getting the plane in focus), but the prop blur won't look as good.
In case you missed it, I was the one who posted the link to Aviation Photography. (see post #5, above)

What I dispute is that ISO has anything to do with exposure. In digital technology, the ISO value is applied gain, which is considerably different than film sensitivity.

Your turn.

You say iso has nothing to do with exposure.
Ok. Set your iso to 100, go outside on a sunny day, and take a picture.
Now go inside, turn off lights and close the drapes. and adjust your shutter speed and aperature to anything you like, and take a picture. (No cheating with a flash or tripod)t Is the exposure the same? No? Now adjust iso, and suddenly you can get a picture with the same exposure as the first one.

Just because digital iso doesn't do it the same way as it did with film, doesn't mean it suddenly somehow doesn't affect exposure anymore. It still does the same thing. 200 iso film is twice as sensitive to light as 100iso film. A digital camera sensor set to iso 200 iso is twice as sensitive to light as a sensor set to 100 iso. A
jet airliner accelerates by burning gas fuel resulting in expanding gasses pressing directly on the front of the combustion chamber, an electric car accelerates using electricity and magnetism. In both cases, it's still acceleration and accomplishes the same thing, just in different ways.
 
You say iso has nothing to do with exposure.
Ok. Set your iso to 100, go outside on a sunny day, and take a picture.
Now go inside, turn off lights and close the drapes. and adjust your shutter speed and aperature to anything you like, and take a picture. (No cheating with a flash or tripod)t Is the exposure the same? No? Now adjust iso, and suddenly you can get a picture with the same exposure as the first one.

Just because digital iso doesn't do it the same way as it did with film, doesn't mean it suddenly somehow doesn't affect exposure anymore. It still does the same thing. 200 iso film is twice as sensitive to light as 100iso film. A digital camera sensor set to iso 200 iso is twice as sensitive to light as a sensor set to 100 iso.

A jet airliner accelerates by burning gas fuel resulting in expanding gasses pressing directly on the front of the combustion chamber, an electric car accelerates using electricity and magnetism. In both cases, it's still acceleration and accomplishes the same thing, just in different ways.
In case you would like to learn more, there are other discussions about digital ISO available on the internet. Just because digital camera manufacturers equate digital ISO to film ISO doesn't make it so. They did that originally to help sell digital cameras to film users who were used to the ISO (or ASA) rating as an indication of how much your image would be affected by the ISO setting.

When you see your image, you are seeing the result of sensor data combined with the camera firmware which creates a viewable image, either on the LCD or on your computer. When you add ISO, you are informing the firmware to make the image brighter, but that still doesn't change the fact that the ISO value is applied gain. Your sensor does not suddenly become more or less sensitive to light. And if gain is applied, to what is it being applied? Obviously the captured data. Post-capture data is data that has already been captured, meaning the ISO setting had nothing to do with the exposure. Your sensor cannot change its sensitivity (without being physically rebuilt into a different sensor).

Also; just a friendly suggestion; leave the analogy-making to someone else.
 
Word games to obfuscate the situation in an attempt to sound more intelligent than anyone else here.
 

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