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Do people get full frame just to cut out the 1.6 factor?

Tatiana_

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I have an old T4i and I've been thinking to get a newer camera to get more AF Cross points, newer processor etc. But then I thought how I always wish I had a full frame because I really don't like how every lens becomes longer. I don't need anything crazy, I am not printing enormous prints. Would a 6D Mark be an over kill?

I have Canon t4i with 17-55 kit lens, 50mm 1.8, 85mm 1.8 and a very old 28-135mm 3,5-5.6. I mainly photograph my kids. I find these lenses not ideal for indoors. I feel like like I need one good all around lens but I'd love to get something fast at the same time. ( i don't like my 28-135).

Any advice is welcome!

Thanks!
 
Just to obtain a little bit more information, is there any issues that you have with your t4i that you feel are limiting you? Adding a flash might help with photographing indoors and is a much cheaper alternative than having to buy a full frame body. Are you planning on doing other types of photography if you get a full frame body?
 
With a crop sensor camera every lens DOESN'T become longer.
Indeed they stay exactly the same focal length - prime or zoom - as they would be if used on a FF (full frame) camera.

What changes is the field-of-view (FOV).

While many zoom lenses are considered "all around" it usually requires 2 or more lenses to cover "all around".
The more zoom range a zoom lens has, the more image quality compromises the lens designers have to include in their design.
 
My answer to your question in the title is: Probably never. Since there is no need to pause in shooting to try to figure the "crop factor", there is no reason to consider the "crop factor" of any given lens. The lens is what it is.

Now there are OTHER reasons for wanting a larger sensor, but frankly, you really don't need to consider a larger sensor for action/candids/portraiture unless you intend to try to earn a living in portraiture. The "crop sensor" size of camera will do quite nicely, so I recommend putting your money in flashes, modifiers, and maybe some additional lenses, depending on what you are aiming for.
 
Yes, IMHO, for most people a FF camera IS overkill.

As Keith said, the lens remains the same, it is the Field/angle of view that changes based on the sensor/film size.
What you need to remember is the base/reference point of the camera or the normal lens is different. So you have to reset where your base is.
  • APS-C (Canon crop) is 35mm
  • FF is 50mm
  • 6x6 cm film is 80mm
  • 4x5 inch film is 135-150mm
Frankly, the simplest way is to forget FF, and just think APS-C. 35mm = normal/standard lens, 50mm = short tele.
Or magnification; 35mm = 1x, 70mm = 2x, etc.
If you try to convert back and forth between FF and crop, in your head, it is very easy to get confused.

Example. When I work with my 6x6 camera, I reset my brain and think 80mm = standard lens. I do not convert from 6x6 to/from 35mm/FF, as that gets confusing real fast.

First look at the lenses, and see if the lenses available to your T4. And is it adequate for the tasks that you want it to do.

My favorite lens for my Nikon crop camera is the 18-140. The Canon equivalent is the 18-135. This is a great GP lens.
But it is not a fast lens. I consider it a daytime lens. Indoors you need to crank up the ISO a lot, or use a flash.

Note that you will NOT get a FAST and WIDE range zoom. This is an either or situation.
The expensive FF Canon Pro lenses are f/2.8 and f/4, and have a much short zoom range than the 18-135.
Sigma has a few FAST f/1.8 zooms, but the zoom range is even shorter at 2:1, like the 18-35 and 50-100.

For your T4, also consider 3rd party lenses like Sigma, Tamron and Yongnuo.

If you want FAST lens for indoors, it will be a compromise.
#1 - If you want a FAST zoom, there is the Sigma 18-35 f/1.8. It is a short range zoom, stopping at 35mm. But that should be fine indoors, where you are not likely to be zooming in a lot. If you need more reach, you have your 50mm f/1.8.​

#2 - A FAST prime is the 35mm f/1.8. The 35mm is a normal lens for Canon crop sensor camera. Canon does not make a crop sensor 35mm lens, only a FF 35mm lens. If you want a crop lens, you need to look at Yongnuo or Sigma.​

For my Nikon D7200 (APS-C camera), I have the 18-140 f/3.5-5.6 for a GP lens, and a 35mm f/1.8 for indoor low light photography. But I also shoot more outdoors than indoors. If I shoot indoors, I use a flash.

If the lens you want is not available, then consider FF. Look at the FF lenses.
But realize that FF camera and lenses will be more expensive and heavier than crop camera and lenses.
And you will still not get FAST, WIDE range zooms, because they currently do not exist.

Note, there is no one all purpose camera/lens.
There is a saying "jack of all trades, master of none." And this is true in this case.

In my case I use a DSLR for outdoor or indoor flash.
For family events, I will usually bring my small P&S, as it is easier and faster to use.

The major and serious problem that I have with a P&S, is that there is something called shutter lag. You press the shutter, and a second or two later, the camera finally fires. This is normally not a problem. But it is impossible to track and photograph fast moving kids. They moved 3 feet in that 1 or 2 seconds, and I missed the shot. The DSLR, like your T4 does not have that shutter lag problem.
 
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I went fullframe because i wanted better low light performance.
If a crop sensor could perform like my D850, I would take it in a heart beat.
 
Many go to FF simply because they believe it's an implied requirement. They think photography is a set path. Get a crop sensor body with one or two kit lenses, then add a super-tele lens, then add an ultra-wide, then a macro...... Then you 'graduate' to full frame and repeat the GAS process with full-frame lenses.
 
With a crop sensor camera every lens DOESN'T become longer.
Indeed they stay exactly the same focal length - prime or zoom - as they would be if used on a FF (full frame) camera.

What changes is the field-of-view (FOV).

Theres nobody in my camera club who believes me when I say this. :icon_crazy:
 
Some people get full frame cameras because they actually need the little bit of extra low light capability.
A lot get full frame because they are under the impression it is the end goal to photography and it is better in all situations.

Truth is, there are scenarios where full frame IS the worst option. There are many scenarios where you WILL NOT see any benefit between either. And this biggest truth.....90% of all photographers (me included) will not benefit greatly from either crop or full frame.

P.S. Have this same argument with the "Has to be full frame" fanboys about medium format and listen to a completely hypocritical story.

Short. It is personal preference on field of view. Your photography will not greatly improve unless you learn to improve.
 
With a crop sensor camera every lens DOESN'T become longer.
Indeed they stay exactly the same focal length - prime or zoom - as they would be if used on a FF (full frame) camera.

What changes is the field-of-view (FOV).

Theres nobody in my camera club who believes me when I say this. :icon_crazy:

Ask them what the numbers are on the lens. It will say the same thing regardless of what camera it's mounted to.
 
I would say no to the question in your title. The crop factor effects your choice of lens ... as in: you need to go wider on an APS-C sensor to obtain the same FOV as on a FF sensor. Conversely, on a FF sensor you need to go longer to obtain the same FOV as on an APS-C sensor.

When most photogs go FF, as the expense is significant in both camera and lenses, it is mainly for the combination of improvements/differences a FF camera delivers and not a FOV factor.
 
Many go to FF simply because they believe it's an implied requirement. They think photography is a set path. Get a crop sensor body with one or two kit lenses, then add a super-tele lens, then add an ultra-wide, then a macro...... Then you 'graduate' to full frame and repeat the GAS process with full-frame lenses.

I’m at the dual system stage.
Micro43 for travel and vacations and product shoots (web output)
Full Frame for professional shoots
 
Theres nobody in my camera club who believes me when I say this. :icon_crazy:
Since the concept has been explained in many different ways ad nauseam, there is no point in trying to argue with them. Let them all be mistaken.
 
Thanks everyone! I understand, I used the wrong language, I'm glad what I was trying to say still got across.

My main concern is that I can't have enough separation inside with my kit lens or I don't have enough space to step back to get the shot with my 50mm or the 85mm inside.
 
Thanks everyone! I understand, I used the wrong language, I'm glad what I was trying to say still got across.

My main concern is that I can't have enough separation inside with my kit lens or I don't have enough space to step back to get the shot with my 50mm or the 85mm inside.

What do you mean by "I can't have enough separation inside with my kit lens?"

For your prime lenses:
  • The 50 and 85 are telephotos, and not suited for general indoor use, where the camera to subject distance is close. Though you can use it for tight crop shots.
BTW, here is the Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 lens, at $700
 
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