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Do people get full frame just to cut out the 1.6 factor?

Do people get full frame just to cut out the 1.6 factor?

Yes, this is why i use one with old lenses.
 
The above recommendation for the Sigma 30mm Art lens is great. After I switched to a full frame my old rebel sat unused for a long time, until I bought that Sigma 30mm and decided to keep the rebel around as a camera that I wouldn't worry about breaking or losing. Totally revitalized my appreciation for the crop sensor. I often think it would be really nice to ditch all my gear and just get a solid crop sensor with Sigma's 18-35mm F1.8 and their 50-100mm F1.8... But then I am one of those who does like the (arguably subtle) difference I see with a full frame-- for me it's less about low light performance or where I have to stand in relation to my subject and more about the amount of background context I can get without losing compression or adding distortion (although distortion is an easy fix in post). The "ff difference" is completely un-noticable to someone who doesn't take photos unloosed they're coached to see the difference, and if you do take photos it only matters as much to you as you want it to. Totally a personal preference. In any case, it's up to you if it's worth it, and anyone else's advice on it is obviously based on their experiences (which almost certainly will differ from yours). I think a lot of times people think that the FF upgrade will instantly mean better photos (I was one of them and was let down when my photos still sucked), but it's just a different tool. Like buying a bigger hammer but still working off of the old plans expecting a different outcome.

You mentioned the 6D above, and I think that's an amazing bargain these days. I've been using 5diii's for a few years and recently borrowed a 6D (original, not mark ii) to find that I have had more bells and whistles than I need. The 6D takes phenomenal photos and can be found for cheap since the mark ii was released. In the next few months I'm actually downgrading two of my 5Diii's for four 6D's (need more angles for some video projects, but I don't need 61 AF points).

Someone else mentioned flash, I also think that could be a great option to get what you're looking for. If you're throwing enough light off of a Fong diffuser to get your ISO down to 100 and aperture nice and tight you'll be amazed at how well your camera will perform. Of course learning to use flash is also a great and fun new challenge. Sorry, I don't mean to assume that you don't already use and understand flash, I'm just trying to hit all of my thoughts on the subject (for anything they may be worth). Look into a Yongnuo flash and a Fong diffuser if you're not using flash already, it's a great way to start without the intimidating price tag.
 

This Yongnuo lens looks like a steal at this price! Does it compare in terms of performance with Sigma 30mm?
 

This Yongnuo lens looks like a steal at this price! Does it compare in terms of performance with Sigma 30mm?

I have my doubts that the $100 Yongnuo will match the $500 Sigma. But at about 1/5 the cost of the Sigma, I would try it. The Sigma's big plus is the f/1.4 aperture, but is the extra speed worth the extra cost? The few reviews that I found on the Yongnuo seems to review as good enough for me.

I recommended the Yongnuo to the high school yearbook advisor, for a low light lens for the Canons. We will get one in the fall, then see how it works out, before deciding on more.

The problem is that there isn't much in terms of fast primes in the 20 (wide angle) to 35mm (normal lens) range for Canon crop bodies, at less than FF prices.
 
With a crop sensor camera every lens DOESN'T become longer.
Indeed they stay exactly the same focal length - prime or zoom - as they would be if used on a FF (full frame) camera.

What changes is the field-of-view (FOV).

Theres nobody in my camera club who believes me when I say this. :icon_crazy:

Ask them what the numbers are on the lens. It will say the same thing regardless of what camera it's mounted to.

At this stage I couldn't give a rats what they think :BangHead:
 
Thanks everyone! I understand, I used the wrong language, I'm glad what I was trying to say still got across.

My main concern is that I can't have enough separation inside with my kit lens or I don't have enough space to step back to get the shot with my 50mm or the 85mm inside.

Good points. APS-C ruins the use of the 50mm and 85mm primes in MANY normal, indoor locations. A full-frame camera makes a 50mm and an 85mm lens a good pairing indoors, in actual, real-world rooms, all over the world. A full-frame camera makes a 70-200 lens VERY useful indoors, while a 1.6x crop-sensor body makes a 70-200mm lens TOO narrow in angle of view, in many rooms.

On APS-C, using an 85mm lens length, an 8.45 foot-tall picture area height demands a 35 foot camera-to-subject distance. With a FF camera, the SAME 8.45 foot tall picture height can be made from 20 feet away using the same 85mm lens length. A HUGE real-world difference!
 
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With a crop sensor camera every lens DOESN'T become longer.
Indeed they stay exactly the same focal length - prime or zoom - as they would be if used on a FF (full frame) camera.

What changes is the field-of-view (FOV).

Theres nobody in my camera club who believes me when I say this. :icon_crazy:

Maybe you are in the wrong camera club. ;)
 
I’m not fond of using crop sensors on brands that have full frame as well. If I want to use a crop sensor, go with Fujifilm or Olympus. They only have one size and thus have their lenses optimized for that crop factor.
 
I’m not fond of using crop sensors on brands that have full frame as well. If I want to use a crop sensor, go with Fujifilm or Olympus. They only have one size and thus have their lenses optimized for that crop factor.

I hate to agree with this statement, but there is truth to it for the advanced/serious amateurs.
  • I currently shoot Nikon DX/crop. Nikon (nor anyone else) does NOT make a good DX equivalent to the 70-200 f/2.8 lens. This has been a source of frustration to me. The problem is that the short end of a 70-200 on a DX camera is like a 105 on a FF camera. IOW too long for many shots. This one lens has frustrated me to such a degree that I am considering buying a FF body, just to use this lens as it was designed.
    Nikon also has only a couple fast DX primes (35/1.8 normal and 50/1.8 short tele), but no fast DX wide angle lens.
  • Canon is in a similar limited lens situation with their crop cameras.
    Their prime situation is even worse, they don't even have a 35/1.8 crop lens.
  • You have to go to 3rd party like Sigma, Tamron and Yongnuo to fill the gaps that Nikon and Canon have left in their DX/crop lens lineup.
  • Both Nikon and Canon's DX/crop line appears to be for the non-serious amateur. And forcing you to go up to the FF/FX line for some of the lenses you may want.
Both Olympus and Panasonic (both are micro 4/3) have great lens lineups.
 
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I went to full frame because I wanted the better low light performance (bigger pixels) but I've recently switched back to APS-C (Fuji XT2) now that low light performance gap between the latest APS-C and Full Frame sensors are getting very close. I never paid attention to the crop factor...except that full frame ultra wide angle glass is really expensive haha.
 
Both Olympus and Canon (both are micro 4/3) have great lens lineups.

You mean Panasonic? DJI, black magic also have micro 43
 
Banana, you mistake was joining a "camera" club. Sounds like gear collectors not photographers. I'll bet they know every expert review on every piece of gear, but have any photos to show, not so much. I look to associate with "photography" clubs that focus on the image, not the gear.
 
except that full frame ultra wide angle glass is really expensive haha.
I flip to manual focus/manual exposure. Shoot a panoramic and stitch it in Lightroom.
Sure it isn't 100% ideal but for the number of times I actually need to do a wide angle, it is an acceptable compromise.
 

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