Don't forget that even with enough flash power, you still need to do something to knock down the sunlight. Unless you are shooting in FP/Hypersynch/blah blah mode (which will squash you flash power and require even more flashes), then you are locked at your 1/250th sync speed. So at midday, with full sunlight and ISO 100, you're still probably looking at an aperture of f/8 - f/11. So unless you were looking for that kind of DOF, which is the easiest solution, you need to do something about the rest of that light. Gary also mentioned the use of ND filters to get rid of the sunlight. If you want a shallow DOF shot, like at 2.8, then you basically 3-4 stopd of light that you need to cut down. For such situations, I have a 2 stop ND filter and a polarizing filter, which is good for about a 1.5 stop loss. So that gives me the options of 1.5 stop loss, 2 stop loss, or 3.5 stop loss if I use both, with the added benefits of a polarizer, which can further help darken the sky, if the conditions are right and you're facing the right direction.
As for doubling you power, as hasalready been mention, due to the
Inverse Square Law, you always need to double whatever your current power level/number of flashes is to get to the next stop. So if you have 1 flash, and you need 2 stops more power, you would double it to 2 flashes for the first stop, then double that to 4 flashes for the second stop. As it turns out, a stop isn't a huge difference and it adds up fast. It's not uncommon to find yourself in situations where you realize that you would need 8-16 flashes to pull off the shot you want. That's where big lights come in, but the same rules apply. If you have 400 W/s, and you need another stop, then that's 800 W/s. Another stop over that would be 1600 W/s. And all of the sudden you begin to realize why it's quite simple to be in want of $8000 of lighting gear.
Good luck!