Fallout?

[mwcfarms]

Trying some high key lighting. Is the creases shadow from fall out and if it is would using a reflector across from strobe trying to fill help at all or should I just fix in post?

 

[Big Mike]

What was the set up of your lights?

If you only have one background light (or don't cover the angles), you will get shadows from creases & wrinkles in your backdrop. That's why I use two background lights, one from either side. That way, and parts of the background that aren't flat, just get lit evenly and look white.

 

[mwcfarms]

I know, thats my problem lol. I need one more light. I had key light camera left, Background light with barn doors back camera right aimed right at the backdrop. Just wondering if there was anything I could do until I got another Bee. I knew I should have gotten 3. So I think I will get one more for christmas lol.

 

[kundalini]

You could try using your second light as a fill on lens axis or as a hair light rather than a background light, letting the background go darker. Another option is to have the second light pointed towards and hitting the background at head height or there abouts. This will give a halo effect. Kinda like this.

You've also got some light spill on the underside of her right forearm and hand (crease side).

 

[mwcfarms]

You could try using your second light as a fill on lens axis or as a hair light rather than a background light, letting the background go darker. Another option is to have the second light pointed towards and hitting the background at head height or there abouts. This will give a halo effect. Kinda like this.

You've also got some light spill on the underside of her right forearm and hand (crease side).

Thanks I will try both of these.

 

[Derrel]

It looks like maybe the dark line is caused by a ripple in the backdrop, where the barndoor-equipped light is not reaching. I think it might be easier to simply place the background light behind the subject, and aimed straight back toward the background, with the light unit positioned level, and at the mid-back height of the subject. Of course, that means there is a light and stand right behind the subject!

I might not be envisioning the setup 100 pervent correctly, but the crease there makes me think that the barndoor-fitted light might need to be aimed at the background from a less-steep angle; IOW,it looks to me like the light was "raked across" the background, instead of "aimed right at it". Anyway....as Kundalini points out, you are getting some blow-back or "wrap" around the entire edge of her person...and it seems serious enough that it is washing out the color saturation on her skin,and on her little hat. She's too close to the backdrop and/or there is too much of a difference between the backlight's output and the main light's output level...you do not need so much "More light" on the background to make it white. Until you have a flash meter, it can be hard to measure the differential...but experience and the LCD screen can be one's guide.

 

[Big Mike]

Of course, the more simple (maybe too obvious) solution is alter your backdrop so that it doesn't have any creases. Sometimes easier said than done, but it would solve this problem without having to buy anything etc.
When I use a white sheet as a backdrop, I have a sheet that had a 3" hem, so I just snipped the corners off and now I can thread the cross bar of my background stand through the sleeve, this lets the fabric hang pretty smooth.
When I can, I have a vinyl backdrop that won't crease like fabric, but it does have thousands of tiny wrinkles, which may show up if I don't cross light it.

This is one reason why it's nice to use paper, rather than fabric...but big rolls of paper aren't all that convenient otherwise.

If you have a smooth wall, you could use that. You can even turn a dark colored wall white, if you hit it with enough light.

 

[Big Mike]

I knew I should have gotten 3. So I think I will get one more for christmas lol.

Maybe get two, if you can. To me, a good 'basic studio portrait set up' is 4 light. One as a main, one as a fill, then two as background lights (for high key) or when doing low key, one as a hair light and one as a kicker/accent light. You can still use one as a background light for low key, to give a spot or gradient to the backdrop, as seen in kudalini's example above.

I have 4 Bees. Two 800s and two 400s. And that's pretty much how I would use them in those situation. I do have half a dozen (or more) other strobes that I could use when need, but I think that three or four are enough most of the time.

Also, you do seem to be learning your lighting pretty well...but most photographers will say that they wish they had learned with just one light. Doing everything they could with that one light, until it became absolutely necessary to add more. All too often, people go out and get 2, 3 or 4 lights and try to start using them all...which really makes things a lot more complicated than it needs to be.

 

[mwcfarms]

It looks like maybe the dark line is caused by a ripple in the backdrop, where the barndoor-equipped light is not reaching. I think it might be easier to simply place the background light behind the subject, and aimed straight back toward the background, with the light unit positioned level, and at the mid-back height of the subject. Of course, that means there is a light and stand right behind the subject!

I might not be envisioning the setup 100 pervent correctly, but the crease there makes me think that the barndoor-fitted light might need to be aimed at the background from a less-steep angle; IOW,it looks to me like the light was "raked across" the background, instead of "aimed right at it". Anyway....as Kundalini points out, you are getting some blow-back or "wrap" around the entire edge of her person...and it seems serious enough that it is washing out the color saturation on her skin,and on her little hat. She's too close to the backdrop and/or there is too much of a difference between the backlight's output and the main light's output level...you do not need so much "More light" on the background to make it white. Until you have a flash meter, it can be hard to measure the differential...but experience and the LCD screen can be one's guide.

Thanks Derrel, Im going to keep playing and learning before I invest in a flash meter. I'll try seeing if I can hit the backdrop more and I think I actually did have that Bee on a higher power or maybe it was the same but I have them switched out. The 400 might be acting as key while the 800 is in background spot.

Of course, the more simple (maybe too obvious) solution is alter your backdrop so that it doesn't have any creases. Sometimes easier said than done, but it would solve this problem without having to buy anything etc.
When I use a white sheet as a backdrop, I have a sheet that had a 3" hem, so I just snipped the corners off and now I can thread the cross bar of my background stand through the sleeve, this lets the fabric hang pretty smooth.
When I can, I have a vinyl backdrop that won't crease like fabric, but it does have thousands of tiny wrinkles, which may show up if I don't cross light it.

This is one reason why it's nice to use paper, rather than fabric...but big rolls of paper aren't all that convenient otherwise.

If you have a smooth wall, you could use that. You can even turn a dark colored wall white, if you hit it with enough light.

I thought about Vinyl when I was at the vabric store, they have some smooth like diner style vinyl and wondered about that. Paper would be nice but this was the first white material I purchased and holy lord it wrinkles badly. But the stuff that didnt wrinkle was more see through than I thought would work.

I knew I should have gotten 3. So I think I will get one more for christmas lol.

Maybe get two, if you can. To me, a good 'basic studio portrait set up' is 4 light. One as a main, one as a fill, then two as background lights (for high key) or when doing low key, one as a hair light and one as a kicker/accent light. You can still use one as a background light for low key, to give a spot or gradient to the backdrop, as seen in kudalini's example above.

I have 4 Bees. Two 800s and two 400s. And that's pretty much how I would use them in those situation. I do have half a dozen (or more) other strobes that I could use when need, but I think that three or four are enough most of the time.

Also, you do seem to be learning your lighting pretty well...but most photographers will say that they wish they had learned with just one light. Doing everything they could with that one light, until it became absolutely necessary to add more. All too often, people go out and get 2, 3 or 4 lights and try to start using them all...which really makes things a lot more complicated than it needs to be.

Thanks, I know sometimes I do get ahead of myself :blushing: but I love playing with lights and seeing what more will give me. I started using just my one SB600 then used it with the 900 and was hooked on experimenting. Its awesome to have people here who can point out the obvious things that I missed. Ie the spill under her arm Thanks Kundalini.

You guys rock. :hugs:

 

[kundalini]

I have 4 Bees. Two 800s and two 400s. And that's pretty much how I would use them in those situation.

Do you feel the 800's are adequate? I'm receiving a pretty nice bonus check and was thinking about a 1600 and an 800. Then supplement those with hotshoe flashes for hair and kickers.

 

[Big Mike]

Do you feel the 800's are adequate? I'm receiving a pretty nice bonus check and was thinking about a 1600 and an 800. Then supplement those with hotshoe flashes for hair and kickers.

If you mean adequate in terms of power, I'd say yes. But of course, it depends how & where you shoot. I typically have one 800 as my key light (large softbox) around 1/4 to 1/2 power and shoot at ISO 100 and F11 (give or take, of course).

In terms of quality, I'd say yes as well...but only adequate. The color temp isn't all that consistent and while the build quality is not bad, they don't feel nearly as sturdy as any of the 'pro' lights I've used.

When I first bought one studio light, I thought I would use hot-shoe flashes to fill out the kit...but the differences in recycle times drove me crazy. I would only recommend that if you have really good flashes that recycle quickly, or you are shooting where you have plenty of time to set up (models as opposed to kids, where you have to fire like crazy when they finally look in the right direction).

 

[Big Mike]

Thanks, I know sometimes I do get ahead of myself but I love playing with lights and seeing what more will give me.

It's probably too far to come, but I'm starting to teach some courses with a new photography 'school' and we have some courses that would be ideal for where you are at in your photography.
Using Light: Principles & Practice– The Canadian Photography Learning Centre
This one, in particular, is taught in a studio with a lot of hands-on learning and exercises, rather than just sitting in class watching slides.
Maybe you could find something similar in Calgary.

 

[mwcfarms]

I wanted to take the Joe McNally one they had at Mount Royal last month but didn't work out with hubby. They do offer these in Calgary an I have taken a couple there. I want to take a more practical hands on course as well. If you guys ever have a weekend one let me know. Im from Etown so its easy peasy for me to come home.

 

[Big Mike]

I was talking to someone who went down to Calgary for the Joe McNally thing, she said it was really good.

If you guys ever have a weekend one let me know.

That course is six days (three hours each), and we've been doing it as either 6 evenings or three Saturdays. The Saturday class usually has a couple people who come from out of town, as far as Reddeer for a couple of them.
We have been talking about trying to do it all in one weekend...but it might not be as effective that way. We talked about doing 9 hours on Saturday (probably 11 hours with breaks) and then a short Sunday...or splitting it evenly across both days. Either way, it's a lot of info to cram into a short time. The first class, especially, is pretty 'sciencey' and people need a break from that.

If you are interested, I would encourage you to at least contact them and let them know what your preferences would be. The have talked about things like teaching some courses in places like Reddeer, as long as they can fill the class.

 

[mwcfarms]

I was talking to someone who went down to Calgary for the Joe McNally thing, she said it was really good.

If you guys ever have a weekend one let me know.

That course is six days (three hours each), and we've been doing it as either 6 evenings or three Saturdays. The Saturday class usually has a couple people who come from out of town, as far as Reddeer for a couple of them.
We have been talking about trying to do it all in one weekend...but it might not be as effective that way. We talked about doing 9 hours on Saturday (probably 11 hours with breaks) and then a short Sunday...or splitting it evenly across both days. Either way, it's a lot of info to cram into a short time. The first class, especially, is pretty 'sciencey' and people need a break from that.

If you are interested, I would encourage you to at least contact them and let them know what your preferences would be. The have talked about things like teaching some courses in places like Reddeer, as long as they can fill the class.

Three consecutive saturdays? Thats something I could do or even red deer. Hmmm so who would I contact on the site. Just the general contact form?