First attempt at Panoramic.

Kevin. I am reading your signature and nodding in agreement.

The bad part is, I do not see you improving... Please re-read this thread and practice the advice given.




p!nK
 
I skimmed, but didn't see it mentioned anywhere else...soooooo...

This was copied from the overexposed photo's exif data:

Exposure Mode = manual exposure

I saw the same thing in the non-pano shot in the original post. The camera isn't overexposing...you are. You have your camera set to manual. This means that you need to set the ISO, shutter, AND aperture. Your camera will not do any of those things. Your camera's meter will give you an idea of if you're close or not. In the case of the latest photo you posted, the needle on your meter was likely pegging all the way to the right, and you didn't see it. Like others have said, look up exposure triangle. Go get a book (Understanding Exposure is the default TPF suggestion). If you want long shutter speeds, that's fine, but you also need small aperture (large f/number) and/or low ISO. I know I repeated a lot of what others have said, but it really is worth mentioning again.
 
You all seem to be missing something here.

I DO UNDERSTAND that it is overexposed. and WHY it's overexposed. Trust me. I Understand all of that.
As I stated in one of the posts, I was on the lowest possible ISO, Highest possible Fstop, with 3 stacked ND Filters, and my picture was completely white. Why? Because I had a long shutter speed. Yes. I KNOW.
If I wanted it to be exposed properly, I would use a faster shutter speed.
But as I stated, I WANTED to use a slower speed, to smoothen out the water in the picture. And am simply curious as to what I have to do in order to get such pictures. I'm assuming a camera a Fstop of 16, plus the ND filters would allow me a longer exposure time.

So as of now, the only possible way I'm going to get a 1/3 or greater exposure time, is with a camera that has a higher Fstop?

Believe it or not, I DO understand the exposure triangle. Aperture/ISO/Shutter Speed determines the exposure, and can shoot in manual and adjust each of those to the proper settings to get a properly exposed setting. The higher my aperture is (i.e F22), the wider DOF I will have.
The slower shutter speed, the less amount of light it let's in. The higher the ISO the more light my sensor detects. Meaning to take a picture in a low-light situation, I need a higher ISO. But the higher ISO, the more noise it can add. I even know that the ideal ISO for canons is 100, while it's 200 for Nikons.

All I want to know
is what I have to do
to take a long exposure picture
in broad daylight.

And I'm guessing that since my Aperture only goes to 8, that I won't be able to.
Correct?
 
In my post I explained what you need.

Because your camera can't go above f/8, you need stronger ND filters.

I get your problem, and your cameras limitations.
I was just thinking, to be cheap, go get some welders goggles, or maybe replacement mask plate, which is probably around the ND1000 range, which should get you to what you are trying to do. You can just try holding it, or taping it in front of your lens.
 
The chart on page 65 of your maunal only describes the Maximum aperture at both wide angle and telephoto to be f/8. That is not indicative on the minimal aperture your camera is capable of. I only breezed through the manual with a few keyword searches. Perhaps you can find more detailed information.
 
..............
All I want to know
is what I have to do
to take a long exposure picture
in broad daylight...........


Hmmmm. How to dial down the sunlight? Oh, wait......... reflect it off the moon at night!
 
Thank you bitter, I missed your post.

And @ kund, I've played around with that camera enough to know that 8.0 is the highest. I'm 100% positive on that.

Also,
"The lens aperture range is a maximum of f/2.7 at the widest focal length and f/3.5 at full zoom with a minimum aperture of f/8.0 - typical of small-sensor cameras. "
Canon Powershot S5 IS Review
 
Maybe if I got some ziplock baggies, and spray painted them black it would work!

But i'm curious, shooting with such a dark filter, would my image quality suffer at all? Or would it actually manage to balance out the exposure with no harsh "side effects" if you will.
 
Good quality high stop filters would be fine. I have seen sharp photos taken in daytime with 60 second shutter speeds. Which is something I want to try...take pictures in places normally bustling with people, to not have the people show up. :)
 
Yup, it depends on the quality of the filter / gel. That can run into some $$$. TBH, with your camera, it may pay you just to pick and choose a different time of day. Like I said, get creative.
 

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