First attempt at Panoramic.

[KmH]

2.7 to shoot landscape? Thats unheard of, till now..

How long have you been involved with doing landscape photography?

 

[Jarrod268]

2.7 to shoot landscape? Thats unheard of, till now..

How long have you been involved with doing landscape photography?

I think this is a good time to mention why the tokina 11-16 is popular its because its a fast f2.8 lens. Hand held, low light architecture and landscape shots are very doable with it.

Also, since its a wide angle the depth of field isn't as narrow even wide open.



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[RedWylder]

Kevin- both the aperture and the shutter speed control the amount of light entering your camera. If lowering your shutter speed doesn't do the trick then you'll have to lower the f/stop too/instead. Here's a general rule for choosing when to shoot in aperture priority/shutter priortiy:

Shutter priority: when stopping movement or capturing movement is more important.

Aperture priority: when DOF is more important i.e. landscape photography vs. portraiture. IN GENERAL in a landscape you want a large DOF (at least f/8 or higher) so that all the stuff (foreground, middleground, background) are in focus.

Still, as everyone has mentioned there's a lot more to it than that. Read, read, read! then Practice, Practice, Practice!

 

[KevinPutman]

Thanks stryker. I live within walking distance of that lake, so I'll be out there all the time. Shooting the same thing over and over until I can manage to get it right haha =p.

 

[iNick]

they make ND filters for powershot cameras?

 

[KevinPutman]

Yeah surprisingly, I had to get an extension tube to put it on. It's just a regular 52mm filter..

 

[KevinPutman]

Okay, so here's my problem.

I know I'm borderline retarded, but this just bugs me.
I went out to the lake to take some pictures of the sky, but wanted the water in it too. It was windy so the water was ripply, and I wanted it to be smooth.

Here is the picture I got.

F8 (Highest it goes)
ISO-80
1/3

PLUS Triple stacked ND filters. ND2, ND4, and ND8.
Shot in full manual.

So basically, is it not possible to get a long exposure picture in semi-bright situations?

I was told ND filters would fix this.

 

[mwcfarms]

I think you can also introduce noise into a picture when you push the limits of tonal range in editting. Someone can clarify this or explain it better I am sure.

I would try to shoot first thing in the morning or late at night when water is calmest. If your looking to get the glass like effect during the day probably won't happen with the water. You should be able to use the ND filters to not overexpose the picture, each one adds a certain amount of stops of light. It won't make the water smooth though. Thats a product of the light reduction allowing you to shoot at longer times and cut the light entering the camera.

 

[itf]

Use a faster shutter speed.

 

[Bitter Jeweler]

ND2 has an F-Stop Reduction of 1 which means 50% of the light gets through
ND4 has an F-Stop Reduction of 2 which means 25% of the light gets through
ND8 has an F-Stop Reduction of 3 which means 12.5% of the light gets through
ND64 has an F-Stop Reduction of 6 which means 1.56% of the light gets through
ND1000 has an F-Stop Reduction of 10 which means .1% of the light gets through

Because your camera can't go above f/8, you need stronger ND filters.


You need to experiment, and compare the data for properly exposed images, both with, and without your ND filters to actually see that they are doing their job, and how you are limited by your camera. I will add, it's kinda pointless to do long exposures handheld.

 

[Geaux]

Jesus, that is a horrible picture...

(deleted other stuff)



EDIT: Bitter seems to nail it ... ignore my post

 

[480sparky]

Okay, so here's my problem.

I know I'm borderline retarded, but this just bugs me.
I went out to the lake to take some pictures of the sky, but wanted the water in it too. It was windy so the water was ripply, and I wanted it to be smooth.

Here is the picture I got.

F8 (Highest it goes)
ISO-80
1/3

PLUS Triple stacked ND filters. ND2, ND4, and ND8.
Shot in full manual.

So basically, is it not possible to get a long exposure picture in semi-bright situations?

I was told ND filters would fix this.

Think of it this way: Throwing on an ND filter has the same effect as dialing the ISO down.

So, if you're shooting at ISO 200 and put on an ND2 filter, it does the same thing as not installing the filter and shooting at ISO 100. You'll either need to double the exposure time, or open the lens up one stop.

 

[photocist]

Exposure (photography) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

start there.

exposure is not a random thing. it is able to be calculated, and if you know the correct exposure for a scene, one can determine what shutter speed works with what aperture and iso. like everyone said, read, read, read.

 

[Ron Evers]

I have an advantage over most of you folk as I learned the exposure triangle using a hand-held light meter. It is so easy to understand when using a light meter:

Set the film speed ASA/ISO in the little window @ six o'clock on this meter,

Take the reading,

All proper exposures are seen opposite at the top -
Shutter speed in the black ring,
Aperture in the white ring.

So we have for this light reading @ ISO 100 1/250s @ f8, 1/2000s @ f2.8

Perhaps now you see why your exposures were blown out. You really need to understand these relationships.

 

[kundalini]

Alrighty, I'll get it back from her today.

Anyone have some C&C on the ones I posted up, aside from what's already been discussed?

The discussion has shifted. It's not about C&C on dogged photos, it's about your understanding how to correctly expose a shot. The camera is not at fault, you are. Until you get that through your thick skull...... "cool pix dude", can be heard from your friends.


EDIT:
Geeze, there was a second page? More reading for me, but still ^^^^^