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First Photos C&C/Advice?

07nelsonm

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Milford, MI
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I picked up a Canon 10d from a friend and decided to go out for the first time and see how things work. A bit of trial I guess. If it isn't any trouble I would like any advice from any one. I'm currently reading up on exposure, still trying to get a clean grasp of depth of field and pretty much the basics.

These were taken walking around Chicago and a somewhat cloudy day.

1. All my skies are over exposed, I'm currently searching for a solution, people have said to get a filter, but I'm sure there are ways with out it.
mike01109Edited.jpg


2. Same deal with the sky, and I tried my best to get all the trees in my focus area.
mike01099.jpg


3. I just like this picture :blushing: That's my sister and her fiance. :lol:
mike01098.jpg


4.
mike01083.jpg


Thank you in advanced, I'll keep reading, hopefully I can find my answers here on this forum.

Thanks again!
Mike
 
Wow, thayre all really great, number 4 is my fav.

I would say 3. is your weakest photo, it would be better if the couple were by themselves on the path, or perhaps if you could see their faces.
 
It looks like the sky had a solid oveercast which makes for relatively flat lighting.

The easiest way to get both your subject matter at or near the same density is to make 2 exposures one that is correct for the sky (based on spot metering) and the second a correct exposure for eveything else and then merge the 2 using image editing software.

In all your photos the fore/middle ground is underexposed to one extent or another.

I agree that photos of the back sides of peoples head's is less than optimum.

Great subject in #4. Like the others, a digital camera's metering system has difficulty when there are both bright and not very bright parts in a scene.

Unfortuantely, until very recently Canon did not offer any cameras that had color-aware metering, which Nikon has had for some years now.
 
Study up on proper HDR... Just don't abuse it.


Also, when photographing buildings, beware the evil keystone distortion!
 
Thank you all for your comments! I'll play with that keystone effect hopefully tonight, I always wondered how they got straight shots like that from those tall buildings.

And I'm reading up in HDR as I type this, a lot is starting to make sense now too. I'm off work tomorrow so maybe I'll test some of these new ideas out.

Thanks again, I appreciate the help :D.
Mike

EDIT: Quick question, I'm using a kit lens right now, but I'm headed back to Michigan which has some great Metro Parks. I want to try my hand at shooting birds/nature photography. Would any lens in the 300-400mm focal length work well for shooting small animals from a distance, and for these lenses would a tripod be necessary.
 
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Mike

EDIT: Quick question, I'm using a kit lens right now, but I'm headed back to Michigan which has some great Metro Parks. I want to try my hand at shooting birds/nature photography. Would any lens in the 300-400mm focal length work well for shooting small animals from a distance, and for these lenses would a tripod be necessary.
Shooting small animals from a distance and having any subject scale requires more than 300 mm. Serious nature photographers tend to like 600 mm prime lenses, but the good ones cost around $10,000.

Sigma makes a couple of decent APO zoom lenses that have image stabilization. A 150-500 mm ($1000) and a 50-500 mm ($1400) that work for daytime shots.

A tripod with a gimbal head is the best way to stabilize a long focal length (and heavy) lens.
 
My two cents... If you want it... I adjusted the White Balance a little, changed it to B/W, and cropped it a bit...

mike01098-BuS-Edit.jpg


PS - this was my least favorite of the ones you posted. I just thought it would look better as a black and white.
 
Look at what was lurking in your 4th shot, as seen in Post #10 of this thread !!!! The "solution" to the ugly,bald gray skies is called June-July-August.
 
I have a 55-250mm lens with IS that makes images like this:


not the best lens int he world, but for the price, a great one to learn on!
 

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