FOCUS TEST AS RECOMMENDED!! =)

AMOMENT

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Okay, so my computer has been freezing so I still have focusing test pics to post and upload but, here are 2 from my 50mm. Both were shot, wide open as per deirections and I also used a focus chard someone was so kind to PM me. I stood as close to the chart as my camera would allow to focus (this is what it said to do) and I selected only the center FP and AF-S and focused on the center line using a tripod. I also took a random shot of a care bear just for futher explanation. I will have to post more of my 55-300mm test tomorrow. I have a bad feeling that my camera shake is the probleml but i hope there is a way to work on that considering it is something that is not that changeable for me. Oh, and get this, my perfectly working tripod ;), well, went to do the focus test and the lever to ltach it gave out so I was only able to rest and position the camera on the base of the top of the tri-pod. It pretty much did the same thing and I don't think it made much of a difference hopefully. One of those weeks, let me tell ya; lol!


50mm f/1.8

1.
13-4.jpg


2.
14-4.jpg






PS: honestly, I'm bummed! I wish you could drive to my house and help me. This focus issue has been wearing me down and I shoot lots of pics, in lots of modes, read everything, and try everything and still seem to miss. It is very frustrating but I am determined to either figure out what I'm doing wrong and learn how to fix it!
 
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Looks to me like the focus is dead center.....

$13-4.jpg
 
yeah, that looks like your camera and lens are dead perfect.
 
Surely you have a local photog shop you can go to for some "hands on" help and advice. Maybe even take a class. Lots offer 2 hour quick courses on basic stuff. If nothing else, maybe they will take a few minutes to physically show you your answers.
 
I'm glad my lens/camera is good but I'm afraid the culprit is my hand shake. Any tips for improving that? (I've been reading a bit about it but wondered if you guys had some advice.

For one I always try to use the highest shutter speed possible for the exposure I need
I hold my breath when I shoot
I try to use a tri pod but to be honest, how do you really use a tripod when you are following kids around and needing to get on the ground and than back up in seconds? Any recommendations?
 
I have a couple of suggestions for camera shake.
  1. Shoot at the end of an exhalation. It is a marksman trick.
  2. Also find things to lean against. A wall works wonders.
  3. Prop your camera on the back of a chair if you have one and if it works for the shot.
  4. I am frequently setting my camera down on ledges or tables and then putting my had under the lens to frame up.
  5. Also take 3 shots in a row, hold you finger down for all three. The first and last will have some shake from pressing and releasing the shutter, but the 2nd won't.
  6. Instead of a tripod, try a mono pod. They are much faster.
  7. And my final tip. Use a fiash. Boo yah.

Let me know if any of these help you.
 
bean bags can work wonders as well. gripster style mini tripods can be awesome as well.
 
Why is this in "People Photography?"
 
I'm glad my lens/camera is good but I'm afraid the culprit is my hand shake. Any tips for improving that? (I've been reading a bit about it but wondered if you guys had some advice.

For one I always try to use the highest shutter speed possible for the exposure I need
I hold my breath when I shoot
I try to use a tri pod but to be honest, how do you really use a tripod when you are following kids around and needing to get on the ground and than back up in seconds? Any recommendations?
Hand shake can never be eliminated but it can be controlled and minimized. My hands shake about like you expect from someone 60 years old that drinks too much coffee and smokes too much, but I manage to do pretty well. This Shot was taken yesterday evening and the EXIF data will show that it was taken at 1/25 second at 112mm with no flash, and it was shot hand-held.

The advice from ChristianGrattan is valuable and I agree with most of it. First, hold your camera loosely in your hands. The tighter you hold it the more you will transfer the shake from your hands to the camera. Find something to brace your hands on. A wall, a tree, a fence post, a car, a tripod, a monopod, anything. It doesn't matter what it is, just use what is available. Shoot a series of shots and pick the best. Take a breath, exhale halfway, and hold it for the shot. Shoot between heartbeats. Yes, you can feel them and you can do it. Use the VR in your lenses or camera. It is invaluable in controlling hand shake.
 
SCraig said:
Hand shake can never be eliminated but it can be controlled and minimized. My hands shake about like you expect from someone 60 years old that drinks too much coffee and smokes too much, but I manage to do pretty well. This Shot was taken yesterday evening and the EXIF data will show that it was taken at 1/25 second at 112mm with no flash, and it was shot hand-held.

The advice from ChristianGrattan is valuable and I agree with most of it. First, hold your camera loosely in your hands. The tighter you hold it the more you will transfer the shake from your hands to the camera. Find something to brace your hands on. A wall, a tree, a fence post, a car, a tripod, a monopod, anything. It doesn't matter what it is, just use what is available. Shoot a series of shots and pick the best. Take a breath, exhale halfway, and hold it for the shot. Shoot between heartbeats. Yes, you can feel them and you can do it. Use the VR in your lenses or camera. It is invaluable in controlling hand shake.

I'm not sure if this is true or if it's true for all camera models but....does VR work with back button focusing? I read somewhere that it's only activated with the shutter button.
 
I'm not sure if this is true or if it's true for all camera models but....does VR work with back button focusing? I read somewhere that it's only activated with the shutter button.
Good question but I have no idea of the answer. It should, I would think, since it's a function of the lens and not the camera but I don't know that for sure.

I've personally never understood the appeal of back-button focusing anyway. Why push two buttons when the same thing can be achieved by pushing one?
 
SCraig said:
Good question but I have no idea of the answer. It should, I would think, since it's a function of the lens and not the camera but I don't know that for sure.

I've personally never understood the appeal of back-button focusing anyway. Why push two buttons when the same thing can be achieved by pushing one?


"There is one small gotcha with using Back-Button Focus – the Vibration Reduction (VR) function doesn’t kick in with the AF-ON button, but only when the shutter button is pressed. So you might encounter situations where the VR hasn’t had time to settle before the shutter is fired. It’s just something to be aware of."

http://neilvn.com/tangents/2010/11/06/nikon-d300-d700-d3-d3s-d3x-focusing-modes/


I started using BBF because people on another forum were saying it was more accurate - which obviously isn't true. I guess if you focus and recompose it might come in handy - or at least that's what I've heard. I don't focus and recompose so it's really of no benefit to me. Im just use to it now.
 
I started using BBF because people on another forum were saying it was more accurate - which obviously isn't true. I guess if you focus and recompose it might come in handy - or at least that's what I've heard. I don't focus and recompose so it's really of no benefit to me. Im just use to it now.
Thanks for the clarification. I had always wondered why people chose to do that. I'm still not sure I understand where the logic comes from but at least I know why they are trying to do it.

I still focus and recompose from time to time, but without using back-button focusing. Perhaps a Canon is different, but with most Nikons as long as the autofocus mode is set to single-servo (AF-S) all I have to do is half-press the shutter to focus on where I want the focus point to be, move the camera over to recompose, and finish pressing the shutter. The focus stays where I focused before I recomposed.
 

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