Focusing Ruler Test Horrible

[SCraig]

one thing I noticed the whole picture is OOF down to the floor.I dont see anything the camera locked on to at all.Unless it locked on the white wall somewhere but it's hard to tell.

I doubt it would have locked on the wall, not enough contrast. I thought at first it was inside the minimum focus distance but that wouldn't be the case with 5' of measuring tape with a 35mm lens on a D3200.

 

[manaheim]

I think all good solutions should start with buying a mac. That would be awesome.

 

[DarkShadow]

I think all good solutions should start with buying a mac. That would be awesome.

Will that fix his D3200 focus on the ruler.:mrgreen:

 

[tirediron]

I think all good solutions should start with buying a mac. That would be awesome.

Will that fix his D3200 focus on the ruler.:mrgreen:

Sure it would have... if'n he'd bought the Mac, then he would have been broke, and not been able to afford the camera, and ergo, there would have been no focusing issue!

 

[DarkShadow]

LOL.

 

[table1349]

I think all good solutions should start with buying a mac. That would be awesome.

:lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao:

 

[pgriz]

Kinda wondering what you're trying to figure out. Is it the AF accuracy, the lens focusing ability, or something else?

When doing tests, you try to keep all variables steady, and change only one to see what the effect is. In this case, putting the camera on a tripod is essential, both to eliminate any camera shake as a reason for blur, and secondly to allow you to use manual focus. Turn your AF off, and use live-view (10x) to focus on the key point (say the 3.5" mark). Use either a remote release, or 2-second shutter release delay to trigger the shutter. By eliminating possible sources of camera movement, you make your focus test more reliable. Of course, the more light you have, the easier it is to focus and also to get a good exposure. Once you've achieved the best focus possible with the live-view focusing, you can switch to your AF, enabling ONLY the center point, and using that on your previous target to see if the camera/lens combination achieves as good a focus as you were able to achieve manually. If yes, excellent. If no, then you start checking if you have front/back-focusing issues.

 

[cjdesu6]

Kinda wondering what you're trying to figure out. Is it the AF accuracy, the lens focusing ability, or something else?

When doing tests, you try to keep all variables steady, and change only one to see what the effect is. In this case, putting the camera on a tripod is essential, both to eliminate any camera shake as a reason for blur, and secondly to allow you to use manual focus. Turn your AF off, and use live-view (10x) to focus on the key point (say the 3.5" mark). Use either a remote release, or 2-second shutter release delay to trigger the shutter. By eliminating possible sources of camera movement, you make your focus test more reliable. Of course, the more light you have, the easier it is to focus and also to get a good exposure. Once you've achieved the best focus possible with the live-view focusing, you can switch to your AF, enabling ONLY the center point, and using that on your previous target to see if the camera/lens combination achieves as good a focus as you were able to achieve manually. If yes, excellent. If no, then you start checking if you have front/back-focusing issues.

Thanks will try.