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Fotodiox extension tube question

annamaria

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Hi all I received a Fotodiox extension tube set for my Nikon D 5100. It's manual has no electrical contacts. What type of adaptor would I need to make the photos less blurry when shooting photos? Any suggestions ?
 
What lens are you using and how have you combined everything?
 
Hi all I received a Fotodiox extension tube set for my Nikon D 5100. It's manual has no electrical contacts. What type of adaptor would I need to make the photos less blurry when shooting photos? Any suggestions ?

With NO CPU contacts, a G-type Nikkor lens will close down to minimum aperture (usually f/16 or f/22) when used on a low-cost tube like that, which leads to verrrrrrrry slow shutter speeds in most cases. With the lens stuck at f/16, you will have an issue with long,slow shutter speeds causing blurriness. ONE good solution for Nikon lens users with G-type lenses is to use a small bit of tape to jimmy the lens diaphragm actuation tab on the back of the lens, to basically, MOVE THAT black tab, and keep the lens set to about f/5.6 or thererabouts, so you can "get some light in".

Here, I did a search. THIS Take macro shots like this for less than the cost of a pizza « Stack Exchange Photography Blog blog post might help you!!!!
 
Hi all I received a Fotodiox extension tube set for my Nikon D 5100. It's manual has no electrical contacts. What type of adaptor would I need to make the photos less blurry when shooting photos? Any suggestions ?


Do they have the mechanical aperture actuator?
 
With NO CPU contacts, a G-type Nikkor lens will close down to minimum aperture (usually f/16 or f/22) when used on a low-cost tube like that, which leads to verrrrrrrry slow shutter speeds in most cases. With the lens stuck at f/16, you will have an issue with long,slow shutter speeds causing blurriness. ONE good solution for Nikon lens users with G-type lenses is to use a small bit of tape to jimmy the lens diaphragm actuation tab on the back of the lens, to basically, MOVE THAT black tab, and keep the lens set to about f/5.6 or thererabouts, so you can "get some light in".

Here, I did a search. THIS Take macro shots like this for less than the cost of a pizza « Stack Exchange Photography Blog blog post might help you!!!!

Will check the blog out and thanks for your explanation. :-)
 
A photo to help show what sort of blurry you're getting might help resolve the issue. (Is it motion blur, DOF, diffraction blurring, or simply out of focus?)
If you have a TTL flash that you can use of camera (I use mine on a 3m TTL cord in my left hand) it might help if Derrel is right about the reduced apperture.
With the right flash-subject distance this can give you reasonable exposures at the reduced apperture, and help increase the DOF which is near no existant at higher magnifications.

It MAY be that images such as this you've seen on the net (done via meticulous focus stacking) have given you an unrealistic idea of what's acheivable, and your images may be nearly as good as you'll be able to get.
 
A photo to help show what sort of blurry you're getting might help resolve the issue. (Is it motion blur, DOF, diffraction blurring, or simply out of focus?)
If you have a TTL flash that you can use of camera (I use mine on a 3m TTL cord in my left hand) it might help if Derrel is right about the reduced apperture.
With the right flash-subject distance this can give you reasonable exposures at the reduced apperture, and help increase the DOF which is near no existant at higher magnifications.

It MAY be that images such as this you've seen on the net (done via meticulous focus stacking) have given you an unrealistic idea of what's acheivable, and your images may be nearly as good as you'll be able to get.

I seem to be able to focus on the subject, but if I move just a slight little bit it gets out of focus, same thing with just clicking the shutter release button. I don't have a TTL flash.
 
No, he's referring to the tube. Sounds like it's just using the widest aperture thus thinnest depth of field. Without being able to manually or electronically setting the f stop (aperture) you will always be working in the thinnest depth of field.

What is the mm of the extension tube?
 
Do they have the mechanical aperture actuator?

I have a silly question. Are you referring to the camera lens?

No, the tubes.

No, he's referring to the tube. Sounds like it's just using the widest aperture thus thinnest depth of field. Without being able to manually or electronically setting the f stop (aperture) you will always be working in the thinnest depth of field.
........

Not with Nikons. They always close down to minimum aperture by default. So if there's no mechanical linkage between the camera & lens, you'll be shooting at a minimum aperture all the time.
 

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