Free Wedding Photography

[iBats]

So my cousin is having her wedding in October, and she doesn't have alot of money to spend. However she still wants a wedding photographer, and she asked me to do it. I told her i wasn't that experienced with it and she might want to look for someone who charges just a small amount but has done it before. She still insisted I do it. So i said yes, and free of charge.

Since its in october i have some time to get more gear for it and i was wondering what people would suggest.

Im planning to get the D90 body so i can have faster (autofocus) on my 50mm 1.8

I currently have a D3000 (upgrading soon)
18-55mm kit lens that came with it
a few filters (polarizing etc...)
50mm 1.8
Sb-600 flash

So what would you suggest?

 

[JimmyO]

You dont need anymore gear. Just read read read read read.


FYI im shooting my first wedding in october too!

 

[Tulsa]

You dont need anymore gear. Just read read read read read.

Disregard his post.

If you are going to be inside any amount of time, get a good flash. If you are going to do group shots, get some lighting setups. While I am not a pro wedding photographer, I wouldnt do a wedding without some sort of lighting, at least a flash.

 

[JimmyO]

You dont need anymore gear. Just read read read read read.

Disregard his post.

If you are going to be inside any amount of time, get a good flash. If you are going to do group shots, get some lighting setups. While I am not a pro wedding photographer, I wouldnt do a wedding without some sort of lighting, at least a flash.

He has a flash, a plenty good flash. IMO the sb600 is better oncamera then an sb800 (less things to screw up) The only other piece of gear you might need is a tele, preferably fast.

 

[CoRNDoG R6]

Try not to use the prime lens too much. With a fixed focus, you might be out of range to capture the moment. After changing to your zoom kens, it'll be to late!

 

[bigtwinky]

Practice with that flash...read on how to work fill flash and dragging the shutter.

Look at renting some lenses, f2.8 zooms and such.

 

[Derrel]

I would suggest a proven, professionally-capable zoom lens that covers the 17-50 or 17-55mm focal length range, a decent speedlight flash, and a flash bracket to keep the shadows down and behind the subjects. Plus, quite a bit of practice in using the entire rig, before the day of the wedding.

One thing about shooting flash in very large, open rooms like churches or other very high-ceilinged rooms, like hotel ballrooms, is that the flash does not reflect back nearly as much as when you are inside of a normal, smaller room in a private home, office, or other place.

One of the biggest problems with a direct,straight-ahead flash shot from the on-camera hotshoe is redeye...redeye is caused by a flash that is close to the lens axis. For every inch the flash is away from the lens axis, you get 72 inches (ie 6 feet) where you can shoot, before redeye becomes a problem. So, with a 3 inch lens to flash separation, you get 18 feet of in-the-clear shooting, and beyond that distance redeye tends to become a problem. With a 4-inch separation, you get 24 feet of in-the-clear,and then redeye becomes a very distinct possibility. This is one of the main reasons why professional shooters use a flash bracket.

Beyond 15 feet or so, the light from a small speedlight becomes a "hard light source", even if you have a Nikon diffuser cap, a Sto-Fen diffuser cap,any of the multitudes of Gary Fong diffusers, or a Demb It flash diffuser or whatever--once the flash-to-subject distance grows longer than about 15 feet,tops, the light's size as a source becomes SMALL, relative to the subject, and so the light becomes in effect a hard, point source, which will cast sharp-edged and distinct shadows. So, the diffuser at distance does almost nothing except cuts your flash power down, and slows your recycling time and cuts battery life. But, with a flash on a bracket, the shadow will be angled down, and kind of behind the subject, and redeye in distant shots will be tremendously reduced.

If you have the opportunity, it'd be great to visit the actual wedding location, and try a pre-shoot, especially if it is held in a large,open room with high ceilings and or a dark ceiling/wall construction as found in some places with open wood-beam construction.

 

[clbd39]

also you may try to get on as a second with a photographer or if you're out and see a photographer taking some wedding pictures (most likely quite a few in the spring) take a watch

look at some of the photographers on here and on flickr and professional sites

the d90 would be a great upgrade if you can't get any better...
Definitely agree with the 2.8 lenses, if you can't buy them...

I love my 80-200

 

[iBats]

well i was thinking of using 2 bodies so ill have 1 prime and 1 super zoom

 

[dcoffee]

My first wedding photo is i'm carrying 2 body. First camera is using lens with focal 17-55 and speedlite/flash, and the other is tele lens for capture the candid.. But i think with just 17-55 & flash u can capture many moment.. Practicing on using manual mode with speedlite fill in, bouncing is very helpfull to me on the wedding day

 

[FORCFED]

Do you have the money for an upgraded camera and a pro grade 70-200 fast lens? IF not what about just renting the equipment you need. If its dark (which most weddings are) A camera that can handle high ISO and a fast lens would be a must.

 

[SNAPaPHOTO]

Higher ISO is a must for most darker church settings. A good wide angle will help during the reception mounted on one body and a medium zoom on the other. I use the black rapid stap system for keeping the second camera handy.

My setup is 11-17mm 2.8 on one d300 sb 900, and 70-200 2.8 on the other d300, sb900 flash unit. I also bring also some sb 600 as slave units.

If your going to rent, make sure the bodies are the same. Don't confuse yourself with different dials and settings in the moment because seconds count.

The idea of a second photographer is a must. If you can find a female brides tend to be more comfortable with a female photographer when they are getting dressed and ready. Talk to your local photography clubs and find a second and an assistant for the day.

Find out where the venue is and go there, if it is a church go to a service or two and take pictures, donating them back to the church just so you can get an idea of the lighting.

And lastly as others said read read read. While your family may want a photo-journalistic approach to the ceremony, there are always traditional poses that you will want to do. So study that as well.

 

[Cop J]

What do I need to shoot a wedding? - photography Discussion Forum

I was just reading that post yesterday and it has some really good ideas. ^

Make sure you have something to cover the range of 70-200 so you can zoom in and capture moments. You don't want to be in the way so the 200mm will get you pretty close, and if you can find one that has a large aperture, you may be able to take pictures without flash.

 

[the iconic image]

You get what you don't pay for..

the Iconic Image

 

[iBats]

Do you have the money for an upgraded camera and a pro grade 70-200 fast lens? IF not what about just renting the equipment you need. If its dark (which most weddings are) A camera that can handle high ISO and a fast lens would be a must.

well im getting a job over the summer which should get me about 1200 bucks and im sure my rents could cover at least 200 so that puts me at around 1400 and then ill probably be getting the D90 for birthday/graduation so. What lens in the 70-200 range would you recommend and also, for the general purpose lens i only have an 18-55mm kit lens (f/3.5-5.6) so should i get something a bit faster than that. Like i said before i also have the 50mm f/1.8 so...