Getting an accurate b&w print

[jamesd3rd]

I'm not sure if this is right place for this question so I apologize if it isn't. What is the best way to get an accurate b&w print that was converted from a color raw image in either lightroom or photoshop when someone else is doing the printing? Is it worth soft proofing using the printer's ICC profile?

I'm in the process of working with some images but when I view them using the ICC profile they look hazy, with less contrast and loss of detail. And yes the monitor has been calibrated. However, if I am in CS5, and I turn off the 'Simulate Black Ink' & 'Simulate Paper Color' options, it looks fine.

What am I overlooking?

Thanks

 

[Big Mike]

I'll move this thread out into a busier section, where it will get more views.

 

[gsgary]

In photoshop create new adjustment layer / channel mixer click monochrome, red 68%/green 24%/ blue 8% will usually give you most of the shades for B+W, it's a good start

 

[KmH]

What "Rendering Intent' do you have Photoshop set to: Perceptual or Relative Colormetric?
Is there a check mark in the ‘Black Point Compensation’ check box?

Depending on your viewing conditions you can select ‘Simulate Paper Color’ or ‘Simulate Black Ink’.

These settings decrease the amount of visual contrast to compensate for the fact that monitors typically show brighter whites and deeper blacks than the actual print.

‘Simulate Black Ink’ will allow you to check the shadow detail in your image.

‘Simulate Paper Color’ will display the image with the difference between your monitor's white level and the paper.

Display your image in Photoshop’s Full Screen mode for the most accurate viewing of your image.

 

[Garbz]

And yes the monitor has been calibrated. However, if I am in CS5, and I turn off the 'Simulate Black Ink' & 'Simulate Paper Color' options, it looks fine.

What am I overlooking?

You're overlooking the differences in your monitor and your printer. Your monitor is calibrated, but to what? What's the contrast ratio of your monitor set at? Mine is somewhere in the order of 650:1, many are much higher. Paper on the other had is closer to 150-200:1. When you soft proof you are seeing the compressed dynamic range visible on the paper (assuming all the profiles are set correctly). That's what the whole "Simulate Black Ink" and "Simulate Paper Color" is all about, compressing the visible dynamic range and not just the colour saturation.

What is important is not the absolute values of white and black because they will change depending on the lighting on your print. What is important is the relative differences between them, the tone. Realistically there shouldn't be too much difference in tone on a high end black and white printer.

 

[IndigoStarsNiagara]

In photoshop create new adjustment layer / channel mixer click monochrome, red 68%/green 24%/ blue 8% will usually give you most of the shades for B+W, it's a good start

I tried this out today for a different way for b&w and I couldn't find anything to do with channel mixers after creating a new adjustment layer. I am on elements 7. I just wanted to know if I was missing something. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks for your time.

 

[KmH]

Yes, you're missing something - Photoshop CS.

Elements 7 doesn't have the Channel Mixer adjustment layer.

 

[IndigoStarsNiagara]

Yes, you're missing something - Photoshop CS.

Elements 7 doesn't have the Channel Mixer adjustment layer.

That explains a lot. Lol
Thanks.

 

[KmH]

Elements 7 only has about 30% of the features, functions, and tools that its big brother CS4 has. That's why Elements costs so much less.

 

[IndigoStarsNiagara]

Ok. Got CS5. Tried it and I like it. I did change my constant to -3 only cuz I like mine a little more contrasty/darker.
Thank you for the tip!!!

 

[KmH]

.....I did change my constant to -3........

Say what?