Halogen bulb in studio strobe

[2WheelPhoto]

Man wow if you've been shooting with the modeling light may I ask what ISO you used???

In my studio lighting college class >1600 ISO was required with three modeling lights and the WB/f-stop/shutter set accordingly (just to prove a point)

 

[480sparky]

I've never seen a modeling light turn off automatically when the flash fires..... usually for three reasons.

1. It's so dog-gone dim compared to the output of the strobe it doesn't affect the exposure any.
2. Incandescent lamps don't turn off that fast. Yes, you can cut the power off, but they don't turn off immediately like LEDs would. Incandescents will take a faction of a second to actually turn off, so they would still be emitting light after the strobe has fired.
3. Most sets, where you can dial down the strobe output, the modeling light goes along for the ride. Dial the strobe down to 1/4th power, the modeling light does the same.


As for the power output fractions, full power is 1/1. Half power is 1/2. Quarter power is 1/4. Eighth power is 1/8. It may go back to 1/2 (full) power if you continue to turn the knob only because the knob doesn't stop there.... it turns one direction continuously.

So if they are 400ws units, full power (1/1) will put out 400ws. Half power, 200... quarter power, 100, etc.

 

[Rephargotohp]

I've never seen a modeling light turn off automatically when the flash fires..... usually for three reasons.

1. It's so dog-gone dim compared to the output of the strobe it doesn't affect the exposure any.
2. Incandescent lamps don't turn off that fast. Yes, you can cut the power off, but they don't turn off immediately like LEDs would. Incandescents will take a faction of a second to actually turn off, so they would still be emitting light after the strobe has fired.
3. Most sets, where you can dial down the strobe output, the modeling light goes along for the ride. Dial the strobe down to 1/4th power, the modeling light does the same.


As for the power output fractions, full power is 1/1. Half power is 1/2. Quarter power is 1/4. Eighth power is 1/8. It may go back to 1/2 (full) power if you continue to turn the knob only because the knob doesn't stop there.... it turns one direction continuously.

So if they are 400ws units, full power (1/1) will put out 400ws. Half power, 200... quarter power, 100, etc.

Alien Bee's do shut off and then come back on when the strobe is fully reccycled

 

[nikonusersince2007]

I have 160watt strobe lights.

*Is it okay to turn the modeling light off and just use the strobe once I know where the light will fall on my subject so that I don't have to worry about any loss of power or color change from the modeling light being on while the strobe fires.


Side Question: So I should not use a modeling light to light the backdrop. What should be used? A strobe with an umbrella attached or a strobe with a softbox attached or a strobe with a brawley box attached? If an unbrella what color; white, black or gold? I should mention this setup would be for a newborn session (cousin).

Thanks for helping me out guys and gals

I've never seen a modeling light turn off automatically when the flash fires..... usually for three reasons.

1. It's so dog-gone dim compared to the output of the strobe it doesn't affect the exposure any.
2. Incandescent lamps don't turn off that fast. Yes, you can cut the power off, but they don't turn off immediately like LEDs would. Incandescents will take a faction of a second to actually turn off, so they would still be emitting light after the strobe has fired.
3. Most sets, where you can dial down the strobe output, the modeling light goes along for the ride. Dial the strobe down to 1/4th power, the modeling light does the same.


As for the power output fractions, full power is 1/1. Half power is 1/2. Quarter power is 1/4. Eighth power is 1/8. It may go back to 1/2 (full) power if you continue to turn the knob only because the knob doesn't stop there.... it turns one direction continuously.

So if they are 400ws units, full power (1/1) will put out 400ws. Half power, 200... quarter power, 100, etc.

 

[Rephargotohp]

Honestly it's a 50W modeling bulb, I doubt it would influence you shot much if any and would be worth the back and forth. IMO.

depends what you want to do, a Lot of people use no Modifier( umbrella, softbox) when lighting a backdrop.

You wouldn't want to use a Black Umbrella

White is softer more s diffuse, Silver will be brighter a little more intense, Gold will recreate sunlight which may not be desirable unless you want warm tones...which really don't work on babies

 

[480sparky]

I have 160watt strobe lights.

*Is it okay to turn the modeling light off and just use the strobe once I know where the light will fall on my subject so that I don't have to worry about any loss of power or color change from the modeling light being on while the strobe fires.

Yes. That will extend the overall life of the modeling light.

Side Question: So I should not use a modeling light to light the backdrop. What should be used? A strobe with an umbrella attached or a strobe with a softbox attached or a strobe with a brawley box attached? If an unbrella what color; white, black or gold? I should mention this setup would be for a newborn session (cousin).

How about a plain strobe? The issue with using just a modeling light is it will be a different color temp compared to your strobes.

 

[Big Mike]

Alien Bee's do shut off and then come back on when the strobe is fully reccycled

You can set them to come back on immediately, or wait for the capacitor to charge up.

*Is it okay to turn the modeling light off and just use the strobe once I know where the light will fall on my subject so that I don't have to worry about any loss of power or color change from the modeling light being on while the strobe fires.

Perfectly OK, but in all likelihood, it won't be a problem to leave them on.

Side Question: So I should not use a modeling light to light the backdrop. What should be used? A strobe with an umbrella attached or a strobe with a softbox attached or a strobe with a brawley box attached? If an unbrella what color; white, black or gold? I should mention this setup would be for a newborn session (cousin).

Again, you don't use a modeling light to light anything. If you are using a strobe to light your subject, you should be using a strobe to light the backdrop as well. (there are exceptions, but lets keep things simple).

Softboxes, umbrellas etc, are for softening the light. You typically want soft light on your subject, but you shouldn't need soft light on your backdrop...as long as you can get even coverage of light. Although, if you want to create a gradient or a fall off on the backdrop, then you might use something like that. It really depends what you want to acomplish.

When I'm going for a pure white backdrop, I use two lights and cross light the backdrop. This helps to give a nice even light and helps to prevent creases/wrinkles from throwing shadows. If I want to light just a part of the backdrop, I might use barn doors or a snoot or a grid, to keep the light just where I want it.

If I want a dark or black backdrop, I may not use a background light at all, and I may go out of my way to keep the other lights from hitting the background as well.

 

[Rephargotohp]

The problem with turning off a Model light ( In the typical studio situation) is now it's dark in your studio and you can't focus or see anything. So then what happens in home studio situations. People turn on House liights that interfere with color balance even more so.

 

[2WheelPhoto]

The problem with turning off a Model light ( In the typical studio situation) is now it's dark in your studio and you can't focus or see anything. So then what happens in home studio situations. People turn on House liights that interfere with color balance even more so.

I thought the purpose of a modeling light is to help show where the light and shadows will fall on the subject, not color balance anything.

 

[Rephargotohp]

The problem with turning off a Model light ( In the typical studio situation) is now it's dark in your studio and you can't focus or see anything. So then what happens in home studio situations. People turn on House liights that interfere with color balance even more so.

I thought the purpose of a modeling light is to help show where the light and shadows will fall on the subject, not color balance anything.

It is the purpose, That's not what I said.
But if you have a House Light Or even a Super Bright Model light that stayed on ( which isn't the case with how they design them) It would interfere with the color balance of the shoot because you have a strobe at 5,000k and a Incandescent light at 3,000k

At the brightness relative to the strobe that mst modeling lights have , they are not influencing the shot in either brightness or color and you can assure that with shutter speed

 

[480sparky]

The problem with turning off a Model light ( In the typical studio situation) is now it's dark in your studio and you can't focus or see anything. So then what happens in home studio situations. People turn on House liights that interfere with color balance even more so.

Splain to me how a couple of 60w lamps in my ceiling fan will affect my white balance when the 100w lamps in my strobes don't.

 

[Rephargotohp]

I didn't say it should IF you do thinsg right. But I have seen people using Low powered strobes and then they have every light in their house truned on and window light coming in AND then they drag the shutter. And they wonder why they have a Green Cast from the florecent bulbs in their house.

What ever, shoot as you like

 

[2WheelPhoto]

I didn't say it should IF you do thinsg right. But I have seen people using Low powered strobes and then they have every light in their house truned on and window light coming in AND then they drag the shutter. And they wonder why they have a Green Cast from the florecent bulbs in their house.

What ever, shoot as you like

Oh..... now thats a totally different story. The modeling light in relation to color balance gig wasn't making a lot of sense to me

 

[nikonusersince2007]

Great info!

can you please explain what you mean by "cross light the backdrop" with 2 strobe lights? does this mean you have a strobe light on the right side and a strobe light on the left side of your backdrop (how far from backdrop)? and both these strobe light casts meet on the backdrop?

Thank you!

Alien Bee's do shut off and then come back on when the strobe is fully reccycled

You can set them to come back on immediately, or wait for the capacitor to charge up.

*Is it okay to turn the modeling light off and just use the strobe once I know where the light will fall on my subject so that I don't have to worry about any loss of power or color change from the modeling light being on while the strobe fires.

Perfectly OK, but in all likelihood, it won't be a problem to leave them on.

Side Question: So I should not use a modeling light to light the backdrop. What should be used? A strobe with an umbrella attached or a strobe with a softbox attached or a strobe with a brawley box attached? If an unbrella what color; white, black or gold? I should mention this setup would be for a newborn session (cousin).

Again, you don't use a modeling light to light anything. If you are using a strobe to light your subject, you should be using a strobe to light the backdrop as well. (there are exceptions, but lets keep things simple).

Softboxes, umbrellas etc, are for softening the light. You typically want soft light on your subject, but you shouldn't need soft light on your backdrop...as long as you can get even coverage of light. Although, if you want to create a gradient or a fall off on the backdrop, then you might use something like that. It really depends what you want to acomplish.

When I'm going for a pure white backdrop, I use two lights and cross light the backdrop. This helps to give a nice even light and helps to prevent creases/wrinkles from throwing shadows. If I want to light just a part of the backdrop, I might use barn doors or a snoot or a grid, to keep the light just where I want it.

If I want a dark or black backdrop, I may not use a background light at all, and I may go out of my way to keep the other lights from hitting the background as well.

 

[480sparky]

Great info!
can you please explain what you mean by "cross light the backdrop" with 2 strobe lights? does this mean you have a strobe light on the right side and a strobe light on the left side of your backdrop (how far from backdrop)? and both these strobe light casts meet on the backdrop?

Don't aim the two lights in parallel.... aim the right light to the left, and the left light to the right.