Hasselblad headaches.

Soocom1

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So anyone who is familiar with this, please give input.


I have the H1, mounted with the 50-110 glass brick and a Phase one P20 36x36 back.

(Its not a P20+)

So I keep getting really weird results with the camera and have to do alot of post processing.

The camera will read something like a F4.5 and adjust in P, Pv, and A mode to say a 1/250th for example.

I take the shot and it comes out with a consistent under exposure.
Then later I get a good exposure.

So I pulled out the handy dandy Minolta Autometer IIIF and measured away.

The meter shows for example a F4.5 at 1/200, and if I shoot a Canon or other camera to that setting.. voila.. good shot.
but with the Hassy, it shoots a a consistent 1 stop low and so I have to adjust the EV ont he fly to get a decent exposure.

All the firmware is at the last update on the back and body, so am I missing something here?
 
I take the shot and it comes out with a consistent under exposure.
Then later I get a good exposure.
So you're saying that the first reading is low, but then after the light meter gets warmed up, it reads correctly?
 
I take the shot and it comes out with a consistent under exposure.
Then later I get a good exposure.
So you're saying that the first reading is low, but then after the light meter gets warmed up, it reads correctly?
Not the Minolta, but the meter in the Hassy.
 
This is a test pic I took this pm.
Its set at 100 ISO, F16, 1/90th of a second.

y1YR72g.png


This is what it looks like with exposure reworked in PP

tFK2qya.png


in did a screenshot to show that the adjustments made.

That is the luminosity at the time of the photo.
 
I know nothing about the camera, so just a shot in the dark, but if you use your Minolta meter to get an exposure, then set your camera to manual with those settings, will it produce a correctly exposed image?
 
I know nothing about the camera, so just a shot in the dark, but if you use your Minolta meter to get an exposure, then set your camera to manual with those settings, will it produce a correctly exposed image?
Thats what I did.
The shots came out consistently dark on the Hassy, and fine on the Canon.


Here is the result:
Yd5e50N.png
 
Is this something that just started or has it been doing it from the start? Have you been through the menu options. Any chance you have something checked you don't really need on?
 
I checked all firmware.
Checked batteries and all other kinds of adjustments.

I dont know if it is a Hassy-Phase one thing or something else.
 
Sometimes the only way you can solve the problem is to eliminate the things that aren't at issue? Again has it done it from the very beginning or is it something that just started? If it just started can you remember when You first noticed it? Sometimes tracing a problem to its origination helps to understand why? Any chance you have a film back, That you could do some test shots? If a film back works then the problem is in your P20 back. Also does the back have it's own settings or menu? I found some references suggesting a reset as a way to cure a lot of problems. Sort of like rebooting your computer.

I take the shot and it comes out with a consistent under exposure.
Then later I get a good exposure.

"Then later I get a good exposure"

Doing a little reading over coffee. Found something that might explain your statement. Your back uses an internal condenser, that could explain why it takes awhile to "warm" up. If the condenser is weak, it takes longer for the it to reach full charge. One solution offered is to leave it theathered and turned on for a few hours before a shoot. I will say according to the article this isn't a cheap repair. :aiwebs_016:
 
An easy workaround would be to set the Minolta meter to half or less of the ISO in use, to get a reading that would lead toward over-exposure,which in your case would be more or less correct.

This appears to be a problem. How serious the problem is I don't know. Whether you should sell the camera and buy another is up to you. Perhaps this situation can be corrected by an authorized repair center, or perhaps not, perhaps it is an uncorrectable situation, I do not know.

perhaps this situation is why the back and camera were initially sold by the previous owner?
 
On the positive side, at least I dont have massive blowout and the DR is solid with some good contrast.

I have white, black and grey cards so at least I can set a profile for various shots when doing the wedding.
 
I can set a profile for various shots when doing the wedding.

Not sure a standardized profile would work if the camera/back is changing exposure as it warms up.
 
I’ve noticed when I import photos from my a7ii with my Sony software they look properly exposed but when I import them in Lightroom they are all about 1/2 EV under exposed. I just chalk it up to software.
 
Well it looks like its the back.
I have taken numerous photos with it and they are all WWWAAAYYYYY off from a side by side with a 70D.

So the only real choice I have at this point is to either stick with the 70D or find a better (and much more expensive) back.
 

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