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Help! How do I shoot in this arena?

Can anyone tell me what kind of ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture would be perfect for this kind of surrounding?
The settings needed will change some amount as you move the camera from scene to scene, or change scene by changing the lens focal length.
The camera has a built-in light meter which is used to determine exposure settings. One needs to be aware of the circumstances when the built-in light meter can be 'fooled', and experience then has to take over and adjust accordingly, often by dialing in some Exposure Compensation..

It takes pro level knowledge and photography skill to get the most out of a not-designed-for-an-amateur camera and pro grade lenses.
A person can grow into a camera like that, but it will take a concerted learning effort and some period of time dependent on the motivation and technological savvy of the user.
Otherwise it just a very expensive P&S photography kit.

There are considerations for which ISO to use that will affect what lens apertures and shutter speeds can be used effectively relative to the photographers technical and artistic goals.
There are considerations related to lens aperture related to both exposure and depth-of-field, and considerations related to shutter speed that affect the camera's motion stopping capability.
 
How dis you shoot it for the photo you posted in the OP?

That is your photo, isn't it?

Yes, I shot them myself. What is OP?

Dave, it means original post. Sorry some members are cranky tonight. I just sent them to time out in the "crabby little ***** in Aruba" thread. Welcome to the forum. When shooting outdoors in daylight you should not need an ISO of 6400. I generally start out at an ISO of 100 outdoors and maybe 400 indoors and then go from there. In the images posted above, you have a large depth of field but it looks like your focus was catching the guy shooting video instead of the tennis player.
 
How dis you shoot it for the photo you posted in the OP?

That is your photo, isn't it?

Yes, I shot them myself. What is OP?



Dave, it means original post. Sorry some members are cranky tonight. I just sent them to time out in the "crabby little ***** in Aruba" thread. Welcome to the forum. When shooting outdoors in daylight you should not need an ISO of 6400. I generally start out at an ISO of 100 outdoors and maybe 400 indoors and then go from there. In the images posted above, you have a large depth of field but it looks like your focus was catching the guy shooting video instead of the tennis player.

Thx there. You see I am new to photography and I just started to take classes since less than a month ago. As of "cranky" things, that's totally fine with me - someone hates Nikon others think newbies should start out with a D3100...

Anyway, glad I have been learning something here.
 
Sorry some members are cranky tonight.

And some don't pay attention.

Dave, did you shoot the photo of the red room that you included in your initial post?

No. It's from my Facebook friend's timeline post. Since Facebook owns it, will I be in "copyright" trouble with FB? Or my facebook "friend" can sue me? I really don't know.
Why? Are there people lurking around waiting to "get rich, die suing"?
 
f2.8, ISO 3200, 1/1000
 
Sorry some members are cranky tonight.

And some don't pay attention.

Dave, did you shoot the photo of the red room that you included in your initial post?

No. It's from my Facebook friend's timeline post. Since Facebook owns it, will I be in "copyright" trouble with FB? Or my facebook "friend" can sue me? I really don't know.
Why? Are there people lurking around waiting to "get rich, die suing"?

No.

But posting a photo you didn't take is against the rules here. You should be aware of that...
 
And some don't pay attention.

Dave, did you shoot the photo of the red room that you included in your initial post?

No. It's from my Facebook friend's timeline post. Since Facebook owns it, will I be in "copyright" trouble with FB? Or my facebook "friend" can sue me? I really don't know.
Why? Are there people lurking around waiting to "get rich, die suing"?

No.

But posting a photo you didn't take is against the rules here. You should be aware of that...

OK.
But without that cellphone captured image, this threat won't make sense. How to solve that Catch22?
 
(edit - Credit the source if you're going to use someone else's photo - ask your Facebook friend first if you can use it/post it publicly so you can stay friends! You're basically taking someone else's property, although if you read Facebook's Terms, well, that's for another thread...)

That's the ISO I usually use too - what Kathy suggested; that's my starting point and then if the existing light changes (due to increasing clouds or as it's getting dark) then I'd adjust as needed (when I'm using my digital camera, I shoot film too).

I've shot sports (mostly hockey) and I agree with an earlier post that your settings will depend on what your meter indicates according to the available light and that you'll want faster shutter speeds to freeze action. My settings would vary at different arenas due to different lighting conditions.

I tend to use a smaller aperture if I want to get a large distance from my camera across the arena in focus. (If I'm shooting a close up of a player that's close to the boards near me I'd use a larger aperture so the background is less in focus). If you're shooting a view of the arena like in your first photo you'd probably want a somewhat smaller aperture so you can get more depth of field and have the players close to you and the ones farther away all in focus.

In sports photography they do sometimes shoot a rapid sequence of shots but that isn't necessarily the best way to get good photos. In your tennis photos you were probably limited by where you were sitting, if you're shooting from your seats maybe lean to one side or the other or scrunch down or stretch up to change your vantage point (just long enough to snap a picture, try not to block the view of others seated near you). It looks like the camera focused on the guy with the equipment in the foreground since he was closest to the camera; you'll need to make sure your camera is focused on the subject.

Much of shooting sports is the timing; it might have worked better to wait til the tennis player moved to one side or the other or when he came closer to the net, that might have made it possible to keep the dude with the equipment out of your picture (or at least not be quite such a significant part of the image). I think it takes watching and following the play, anticipating the action that will come next, and waiting for the right moment to release the shutter.
 
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No. It's from my Facebook friend's timeline post. Since Facebook owns it, will I be in "copyright" trouble with FB? Or my facebook "friend" can sue me? I really don't know.
Why? Are there people lurking around waiting to "get rich, die suing"?

No.

But posting a photo you didn't take is against the rules here. You should be aware of that...

OK.
But without that cellphone captured image, this threat won't make sense. How to solve that Catch22?

No Catch 22 at all, and it's not so difficult to figure out.

Post a link to the photo instead of the photo...
 
simple chimping or walk down there with a decent light meter

events are huge fun and bring some $$$$ with cams that have fast lens and high ISO capabilities!
 
No.

But posting a photo you didn't take is against the rules here. You should be aware of that...

OK.
But without that cellphone captured image, this threat won't make sense. How to solve that Catch22?

No Catch 22 at all, and it's not so difficult to figure out.

Post a link to the photo instead of the photo...

Yes there is, the linked page leads to another link...so on so forth.
Well I am not here to argue and I really appreciate the advice on rules of photography in general. Thanks Steve.
But I use Nikon and will always be.
 

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