Help working out a flash sync solution

[Destin]

Alright, so I'm sure the answer to this is pretty obvious. It may not be possible. But for once I'm drawing a blank on a lighting connection.

Here's the deal: I've been using (for football) a flash, mounted about 2 feet below my camera on a monopod (nikon sb-600, D80, zeikos ttl flash extension cord). I've got a bracket setup that will hold 2 flashes (ordering a 700 or 800 soon). Dilema: I need ttl usage, and I'd rather not use cls for this because it means having bounce cards on the flashes to get them to see the signal.

I would like a way to hardwire it in and maintain ttl capability, because manual flash is unreliable due to constantly changing subject distances. Is there a way took connect 2 flashes to the camera and maintain ttl functionality without going the CLS route?

 

[cgipson1]

pocket wizards tt5 / tt1 will maintain TTL - need two tt5s for the flashes.. and either a tt1 or a tt5 for the camera hotshoe..... works great... I do it often...

I am really curious why the flash is below the camera.. hardly optimal!

If you need more light than your 600 will give you.. get a 900. If that isn't enough... than look at one of the large dedicated 3rd party flashes like the Metz

 

[Big Mike]

I am really curious why the flash is below the camera.. hardly optimal!

I've heard of that before. It's not about creating portrait quality light, it's about extra light for shooting action and maybe getting some light under the helmet and into their faces.

Adding a 2nd flash may not be the best way to go. If you have one flash at full power, then add a 2nd flash at full power, you only get more more stop of light. For all that trouble, you might as well turn up the ISO by one stop.

 

[bazooka]

If you have one flash at full power, then add a 2nd flash at full power, you only get more more stop of light. For all that trouble, you might as well turn up the ISO by one stop.

I've never thought of that, very interesting. It's easy to think it doubles the light, which it does.... but it's still only one stop.

However, turning up the ISO or opening aperture is not the same if you're fighting ambient light and you're up against your sync speed. That one stop of extra power can make a big difference.

 

[Destin]

I've heard of that before. It's not about creating portrait quality light, it's about extra light for shooting action and maybe getting some light under the helmet and into their faces.

Adding a 2nd flash may not be the best way to go. If you have one flash at full power, then add a 2nd flash at full power, you only get more more stop of light. For all that trouble, you might as well turn up the ISO by one stop.

If I could go higher with my iso I'd get rid of flash all together. Im shooting a d80, iso 800 is my usable ceiling. The 600 does just fine within 20 yards or so.

The extra stop will be big, but so will the faster recylcle times.

As for why the flash is below the camera... You get light up into the helmet, an it eliminates red eye, while containing it to one mobile until. Have the flash under the camera is 100x better than on the hot shoe for sports.

 

[Destin]

Also, adding a stop, BY DEFINITION is doubling the amount of light.

 

[Destin]

pocket wizards tt5 / tt1 will maintain TTL - need two tt5s for the flashes.. and either a tt1 or a tt5 for the camera hotshoe..... works great... I do it often...

I am really curious why the flash is below the camera.. hardly optimal!

If you need more light than your 600 will give you.. get a 900. If that isn't enough... than look at one of the large dedicated 3rd party flashes like the Metz

If I could afford that, I'd just buy a body that would handle the high iso instead.

 

[Derrel]

I believe Nikon already has what you are looking for in the way of off-the-shelf SC- or "strobe connector" and AS- or "Accessory Shoe" hardwired cords and shoes... I for example, have a Nikon strobe-to-Nikon-strobe connector that uses those funky weird pin-receptacle connectors on the side of Nikon flashes to connect two Nikon speedlights to one another on the side of the flash units...if you have off-brand flashes,which lack those multi-pin, strobe-to-strobe connector outlets, Nikon also has some MULTI-SHOE systems.

Might be a bit behind the times, but a 10-second Google search turned up this page, Other Useful Nikon Flash Accessories

which shows what Nikon refers to as the Nikon SC-18 and SC-19 TTL Multiflash Synch Cord and the AS-10 TTL Multiflash Adapter as well as the AS-E900 adapter. I say behind the times because, tio my knowledge, these accessories were initially designed for the earlier Nikon TTL system flash units, and I am not sure if they will give you the exact, right compatible flash command and control; we've gone from Nikon TTL, to D-TTL, and are now at i-TTL, and this page references the SC-17 TTL remote cord, which as you probably know, has been supplanted by the newer SC-28 and SC-29 cords, the more-costly of which has the added benefit of providing AF focus assist beam emission for help in acquiring focus in craptastic lighting conditions. However, I DO THINK these cords and shoes will provide the right exposure command and control for A-mode Automatic flash.

 

[Derrel]

I did another few minutes of web-searching, and found the Nikon SB-600 manual here:http://www.nikonusa.com/pdf/manuals/Speedlights/SB-600.pdf

On page 67 of the manual they are suggesting the following:


Use the optional Multi-Flash Adapter AS-10, if the remote flash units are not equipped
with multiple flash terminals.
• Use the optional Multi-Flash Adapter AS-10 to attach the remote flash unit(s) to a tripod.
• Use the optional TTL Multi-Flash Sync Cords SC-27, SC-26, SC-19 or SC-18 to connect
the SB-600 to more than one remote flash unit.
• Multiple flash shooting using cords can be performed in two modes: (1) TTL multiple
flash; and (2) Manual multiple flash. Performing multiple flash shooting in the Manual
mode, however, is not recommended, since it is difficult to obtain the correct exposure.
Use the TTL auto flash mode with cameras compatible with TTL auto flash.
• To ensure proper exposure, make test shots before shooting important events.

 

[Village Idiot]

Also, adding a stop, BY DEFINITION is doubling the amount of light.

Right, which is fine until you need another stop, then it's two more flashes. After that, you'll need 8 flashes total.

 

[Destin]

Right, which is fine until you need another stop, then it's two more flashes. After that, you'll need 8 flashes total.

I need to get them to let me throw a bunch of monolights up on the lightposts haha

 

[Big Mike]

I need to get them to let me throw a bunch of monolights up on the lightposts haha

They'll let you do that...but you can only fire them when the visiting team is about to make a catch.

 

[Destin]

They'll let you do that...but you can only fire them when the visiting team is about to make a catch.

Hahaha I like the way you think! I shoot at my old high school so I still like to see them win. But, I've learned not to cheer for them while I'm shooting from the opposing sideline... That pisses off a few too many coaches and players for me to feel safe haha

 

[cnutco]

What kind of bracket do you have for the monopod? I have been thinking of doing the same. The home field I shoot on does not have the best of lights of course.

 

[Destin]

What kind of bracket do you have for the monopod? I have been thinking of doing the same. The home field I shoot on does not have the best of lights of course.

I went to home depot and got 2 galvanized 90 degree angle brackets. They are held onto the monopod by 3 hose clamps, with a small piece of rubber (cut from a bike inner tube) to prevent the monopod from getting scratched and give a more secure connection. I drilled a hole in one end of the angle bracket to mount the flashes with a 1/4-20 screw. Total cost, including the drill bit was $15.

I'll post a photo when I get home, I'm at my girlfriends house for the night so I don't have it with me.