High ISO = Need For New Lens

jmtonkin

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Yesterday, I went to the bowling alley with my siblings to cheer them on as they bowl for their league. Long story short, the lighting SUCKED! I ended up shoot at ISO 3200 because I couldn't stop down any lower. Apparently, my camera doesn't like high ISO, because there is a tremendous amount of grain in them. This leads me to my point, I need a new lens. I'm going to be purchasing the Nikon 50mm 1.4 in a couple weeks. Hopefully, when I go back to the bowling alley this time, I'll be able to stop down lower and shoot at a lower ISO.

Here is the original picture:
6867001557_16c78eebcf_b.jpg


Here is my quick edit:
6867022773_a7ce442f97_b.jpg


I didn't want to do too much more editing on it because I was starting to greatly lose sharpness. Not really looking for critique as I realize that these aren't very good compositionally speaking; this one just was good for the ISO example.

Is there anything else I could have tried instead of upping the ISO? I was shooting at f/5.6 and 1/160 at ISO 3200. If I went any slower on the shutter speed, I started to get motion blur. Also, I don't yet have a speedlight (also hopefully in the next month...)

Thanks!
 

SCraig

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It might help, it might hurt. Your depth of field at f/5.6 is already pretty shallow (the people in the foreground are already blurred) and f/1.4 is going to make it a great deal more shallow.
 

djacobox372

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If you want to shoot at wide apertures you're better off with the newer/cheaper 50mm f1.8g. It will take sharp photos at f1.8, whereas the f1.4 isnt sharp until beyond f2. Sure you can shoot it at f1.4, but its soft with low contrast at that aperture.
 

RichardsTPF

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To stop the motion, have enough DOF in low light and limited space to step back, it's time for an off camera flash.
 

cbarbero

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The new 80 1.4 is probably one of the best lenses out there. As for shooting at 3200, until you move to a D3S body, you are pretty much hosed. If you can, drop the f-stop down, and drop to 1600. And I disagree about the 50 1.4. I have one and is as sharp as can be. (only my opinion though)
 

Bossy

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Get a speedlight instead. You're not going to want to open all the way to 1.4 anyway for focus issues, so getting a new lens that has that capability isn't going to help you here.
 

QuadTap

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i'm new to this so forgive me if i'm incorrect but doesn't stopping down mean closing the aperture / raising the f number?
 

SCraig

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i'm new to this so forgive me if i'm incorrect but doesn't stopping down mean closing the aperture / raising the f number?
Yes, it does. Lenses are normally not their sharpest at either end of the aperture. Stopping down a couple of stops from the maximum aperture normally yields the best sharpness.
 

Dao

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Unless the ceiling is dark color, or subject is far away. Bounce the flash off the ceiling works well for me. Flash, camera settings were in manual mode.
 

2WheelPhoto

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To stop the motion, have enough DOF in low light and limited space to step back, it's time for an off camera flash.

^^^^^^^^^^^^Check mate. Do those kids some justice and learn how to use OCF
 

nickzou

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If you shot RAW you can do a bit of noise reduction but NR only goes so far.
 
OP
J

jmtonkin

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Well, as pointed out, I need two things: a faster lens and a flash. I was originally looking at the 50mm f/1.4 but have since done a little research on the 50mm f/1.8. I think I'm going to get the 1.8; it is WAY cheaper and all the reviews I can find say that it is an amazing lens. I'm also looking at getting the SB-700. For the price of the 50mm f/1.4, I am going to get a lens and a flash. Is this a good combination for this sort of venue?
 

JohnYoga

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Hello JM...

Perhaps use a speed light, like the SB400? It should bring the ISO far down from where it goes now. What is your camera, BTW? My '5100, cranks the ISO wacky high when taking indoor shots, even with the speed light on; I switch it to P mode and it come down to 800 or under. John
 

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