High ISO = Need For New Lens

[jmtonkin]

I've got the D300s.

 

[MReid]

50 1.8G should do the trick. Shoot wide open and you can reduce the iso a lot and keep your decent shutter speed.
If you have trouble focusing with the thin depth of field (which shouldn't be a problem at the distance from subject shown here) switch to continuous focus.
You won't need flash.

Absolutely increase the iso and f stop as much as needed to get a nice bright exposure. Start at iso 800 and work your way up.

If you take the exposure dark and then brighten it in post it Greatly Increases Noise.

 

[QuadTap]

i'm new to this so forgive me if i'm incorrect but doesn't stopping down mean closing the aperture / raising the f number?

Yes, it does. Lenses are normally not their sharpest at either end of the aperture. Stopping down a couple of stops from the maximum aperture normally yields the best sharpness.

I am aware of this.

I was referring to the OPs seemingly incorrect use of terminology. i.e. this statement "I ended up shoot at ISO 3200 because I couldn't stop down any lower"

 

[Robin Usagani]

Yeah, you need a faster lens. However I think the photo you posted is fine. Really... start loving grain! Change that to B&W and call it good.

Flash would help BUT if I was shooting the same shot I probably shoot it at ISO 3200 anyway even with flash. Faster lens will help you better with this case. If you use flash and lower ISO, you will have darker background which is not always what you want.

 

[jmtonkin]

Alright, another question: I'm looking at the Nikon 50mm f/1.8G and the SB-700. Would it be better to go with that combination or to only get Nikon's new SB-910? I'm at right around a $550-600 range...

 

[KmH]

Hello JM...

Perhaps use a speed light, like the SB400?

The SB-400 is not much more powerful as the flash unit built into the camera. It can be tilted up to effect bouncing the flash, but bouncing adds distance which robs light power as does light lost in the bounce surface.

The SB-400 is pretty much limited to being used on the hot shoe, because it has no external controls that allow manually adjusting the power ouput. It's not a CLS Commander mode off camera capable unit.

 

[Nikon_Josh]

Alright, another question: I'm looking at the Nikon 50mm f/1.8G and the SB-700. Would it be better to go with that combination or to only get Nikon's new SB-910? I'm at right around a $550-600 range...

That sounds like a great combo to get...I am looking at an SB700 now.

I have to say though.. that shot looks underexposed to me. I used my D90 at a party set too ISO 3200 with my Sigma 50 1.4 and I didn't encounter noise as severe as you had there. I did embrace the grain I got though, I just removed the horrid colour noise and let most of the grain stay. And my shots turned out OK in the end! The D300S is a capable high ISo camera and I don't hesistate to use my D90 at 1600 when shooting RAW.

 

[jmtonkin]

I was very shocked to see how much grain there were in these shots. I thought the D300s would handle that ISO much better. I was sadly mistaken. I just was offered to purchase an SB-900 for $375 and I really don't think I can pass on that offer!

 

[Nikon_Josh]

I was very shocked to see how much grain there were in these shots. I thought the D300s would handle that ISO much better. I was sadly mistaken. I just was offered to purchase an SB-900 for $375 and I really don't think I can pass on that offer!

Yes, you need to remember though to overexpose and not underexpose!

HIGH ISO and Underexposure = Lots Of Noise

 

[KmH]

You can't over expose either.

At high ISO you have to nail the exposure - ETTR (Expose to The Right) - ETTR

 

[Nikon_Josh]

You can't over expose either.

At high ISO you have to nail the exposure - ETTR (Expose to The Right) - ETTR

Yes by overexpose, I mean exposing to the right. My point is that a deadly sin of high ISO photography is to underexpose.

 

[TenaciousTins]

If I recall correctly, some bowling alleys and the likes don't allow flash at all...I got in trouble several times...so sometimes you have to make do with whatcha got using no flash.

Compared to some of the pictures I got at 1600ISO at a bowling alley, that's pretty damm good. I'd be happy with that.

 

[Josh66]

I see very little difference between the original and your edit...

Honestly, it doesn't look that bad to me. You could always convert to B&W and make the grain/noise work in your favor.

 

[iresq]

I don't bowl but I would imagine other bowlers would probably have an issue with flash. Maybe if they were at an end lane? Just food for thought. Be a speed light should definitely be in the bag.

 

[jmtonkin]

That was my other concern, flash irritating other people. I'm going to have to go back when I have my new flash and see how it manages.

Edit:
Also, B+W would be a good solution for this shot, but I don't particularly want all of the shots from that day in B+W...