Home Studio Lighting Equipment Question

[Derrel]

You can get by without a flash meter, especially if you are doing simpler one- and two-light setups, and are not expecting to be able to maintain commercial-grade accuracy,repeatability, and control over your lighting without wild-a$$ guesses, estimations, and test shots and chimping.

 

[KmH]

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks,
Danny

You can always turn the power down, but you can't always turn the power up. The problem is, sometimes you have to do things that affect the photo quality in order to turn the power down. ND filters can have a tint to them requiring editing in post, pulling the lights farther back may alter your intended outcome and you may not have enough room. It totally depends where you're going to shoot. 150w/s will be enough for most smaller indoor areas. If you start shooting outside they won't be enough for sunny conditions, especially when you need larger modifiers.

Also, look at the mounts and the modifiers that can be purchased. I didn't see what mount they use. Mounts can be adapted for, but it can be expensive. I bought any Elinchrom to Speedotron adapter and it was $135 for just the adapter because I have a specific modifier I want to use.

Thanks!

One of the reasons I recommend the Genesis lights is that they use the Elinchrom style speedring. I don't know what style speedring the Adorama Flashpoint lights use.

Don't forget you can use the lens aperture to control the exposure too. If you need more light you can open the aperture.

If you want soft light and soft shadows that wrap a lot, you'll be using big modifiers close to your subjects. How much light the modifier eats willl also effect what power setting you use the light on.

 

[dandaluzphotography]

You can get by without a flash meter, especially if you are doing simpler one- and two-light setups, and are not expecting to be able to maintain commercial-grade accuracy,repeatability, and control over your lighting without wild-a$$ guesses, estimations, and test shots and chimping.

Good to go! Now into the fire!

Thanks again!
Danny

 

[Village Idiot]

You can always turn the power down, but you can't always turn the power up. The problem is, sometimes you have to do things that affect the photo quality in order to turn the power down. ND filters can have a tint to them requiring editing in post, pulling the lights farther back may alter your intended outcome and you may not have enough room. It totally depends where you're going to shoot. 150w/s will be enough for most smaller indoor areas. If you start shooting outside they won't be enough for sunny conditions, especially when you need larger modifiers.

Also, look at the mounts and the modifiers that can be purchased. I didn't see what mount they use. Mounts can be adapted for, but it can be expensive. I bought any Elinchrom to Speedotron adapter and it was $135 for just the adapter because I have a specific modifier I want to use.

Thanks!

One of the reasons I recommend the Genesis lights is that they use the Elinchrom style speedring. I don't know what style speedring the Adorama Flashpoint lights use.

Don't forget you can use the lens aperture to control the exposure too. If you need more light you can open the aperture.

If you want soft light and soft shadows that wrap a lot, you'll be using big modifiers close to your subjects. How much light the modifier eats willl also effect what power setting you use the light on.

It gives you a good upgrade path. Having to find all new speedrings, or worse yet, new modifiers, and really kill a person's will to ever upgrade.

 

[Derrel]

Flashpoint monolights use the Photogenic Photomaster mount. FlashPoint II Monolights Sophisticated Monolights at Bargain Prices - By Joe Farace

 

[dandaluzphotography]

I ordered the 320M kit today and it will arrive tomorrow. I'll let you guys know how it turns out. I think I'll be happy with it.

Danny

 

[dandaluzphotography]

I was wondering about something with regards to shutter speeds and having strobes connected to your camera.

I noticed that when I have used the pop-up flash on my xsi, the shutter is limited to 1/200th. If I have strobes connected to a PC outlet on my hot shoe, would this also limit the shutter to 1/200th? I've been a little reading about flash sync and I understand why it's limited to 1/200th with the pop-up flash, but would this change with the strobes?

Thanks,
Danny

 

[Village Idiot]

I was wondering about something with regards to shutter speeds and having strobes connected to your camera.

I noticed that when I have used the pop-up flash on my xsi, the shutter is limited to 1/200th. If I have strobes connected to a PC outlet on my hot shoe, would this also limit the shutter to 1/200th? I've been a little reading about flash sync and I understand why it's limited to 1/200th with the pop-up flash, but would this change with the strobes?

Thanks,
Danny

It's not physically limited. With the pop up flash up or a hotshoe flash on, the camera sets the limit at 1/200 because that is your camera's x sync. When you have a strobe connected to the pc connector (Does the XSI even have one of these?) or is being fired with a trigger, then the camera will not limit the shutter speed. This however, does not change the x sync of your camera, which will still be limited to 1/200. Even though you can technically shoot faster than that, you'll start to see a black bar creep into the frame (as long as you're not mixing ambient with your strobes).

 

[KmH]

I was wondering about something with regards to shutter speeds and having strobes connected to your camera.

I noticed that when I have used the pop-up flash on my xsi, the shutter is limited to 1/200th. If I have strobes connected to a PC outlet on my hot shoe, would this also limit the shutter to 1/200th? I've been a little reading about flash sync and I understand why it's limited to 1/200th with the pop-up flash, but would this change with the strobes?

Thanks,
Danny

Your pop up flash, and a hot shoe flash, are also strobes. The more descriptive term for the light(s) you are getting is monolights.

1/200 is the fastest shutter speed that has both shutter curtains fully open. Faster shutter speeds than 1/200 the shutter opening is never fully open during an exposure, one or both shutter curtains cover part of the shutter opening. At even faster speeds the gap between the shutte curtains becomes a narrow slit.

To use strobed light above the x-sync speed requires the strobe to fire multiple times during an exposure. The narrower the gap between the 2 shutter curtains, the more times the flash has to fire for each exposure. Strobe recycle time is often a limiting factor. Nikon calls this flash mode FP-sync and Canon call s it HSS (high speed sync)

 

[dandaluzphotography]

Thanks for the responses guys. I understand it better now.

Danny