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how to get a sharp image in sports

A few thoughts:
1) With horses you've a lot of depth to them at most angles to their body, this means that if you are shooting closer to them then a wider angle only works down to around 100mm. Once you start doing portraits and filling most of the frame with horse and rider at shorter focal lengths you can encounter greater and greater perspective distortion (where parts of the subject closer to the camera are enlarged over those further away).
Of course if you are shooting further back from the subject where the horse might only be a corner or much less of the frame, then because the distance to subject is greater, you are fine to compose with a wider angle lens.

Remember perspective distortion is a property of distance to subject not focal length, even if standard advice is based on focal length (100mm or longer)

2) Position is everything at events and can be hard to juggle your desires with the events requirements. One bonus is that many horse events run almost non stop from start to finish. So you've no worries about a subject being there, they will be, all day (and if you ever cover an event you'll find it hard to even find time for lunch). So use this to your advantage and instead of camping out, move around. Move to different positions and angles and see what you can get, sometimes you might take a few shots and discount a spot, but its not time wasted to go have a look and try anyway.
Other times you might find you can move between two spots on the same horse. Eg showjumping sometimes there might be only one or two jumps with a good angle anyway and if they are at opposite ends of the run you've more than enough time to move along the rail between them.

3) Never be afraid to ask. This can vary on event size and organisation. big national events are often more closed down to easy access because they've often already got professionals covering the event; and because safety considerations are often a bit more of a hot topic (esp since they tend to also be managing a much larger crowd of spectators). Smaller events are sometimes easier to ask for different spots you can move into to shoot from.
Be confident but also honest and accept if they say no (just be sure to talk to the right person and ideally talk to them well in advance of the day - on the day they'll not really have time to chatter - so cover your groundwork in chatting before you attend).
In general you can sometimes get access to arena areas or sides not normally covered. Of course some of this might depend on your own confidence around horses; if you're inexperienced it might not do to accept a ring side position if offered.
Also if you're shooting free or paid it never hurts to chip in a bit and help out if needed ,again esp at smaller events in the setup or takedown there might be odd times when another hand can help out (though don't get pushy and avoid getting in the way).

4) 70-200mm is a bread and butter workhorse (yes there's a pun there) for many equine photographers. 600mm can certainly have its uses too, though depends on the setup and the kind of shot you're after. If you can 2 bodies can be ideal to have access too, even if one isn't as good a camera. It lets you swap over fast (I have swapped lenses on the same camera during showjumping but you've got to be fast with it and half the time you end up too rushed to focus on taking the shot), which can be great both when shooting normally and when testing out the place to see what might and might not work.

5) If you build up a rapport with the event location you might even ask about practice nights/days. It's another time you might be able to attend to get a bit of extra practice in the environment.
 
I have access, that is not a problem. I can be in the area, or adjacent to it. The judges know me. I am comfortable around horses, in fact they seem to like me. I like your idea of paying the event director, can't hurt.

Because I need to get a photo of every participant, I can't move once in position because I might miss someone. I don't eat or drink water all day. By the days end, I am, needless to say, not well.
 
Because I need to get a photo of every participant, I can't move once in position because I might miss someone. I don't eat or drink water all day. By the days end, I am, needless to say, not well.

Whilst I fully understand the pressure, you DO need to eat and drink during the day. Even if that means you have to miss one 30min event. A break is important. Fatigue will hurt your photography and you won't get good shots if you're hungry, tired and thirsty all at once.

Like I said I know many equine events just run one event right into the next and whilst rider and horse are only in the arena for a few moments and judges are seated and can grab a drink/bite whenever they want (mostly); you in the arena need your break too. IF there isn't a lull in the day to let you have one then you've got to make one for yourself. One way is to have a second shooter on the day so that whilst you might cover the same event from two angles or cover different events or one shoots and the other sells photos - you do have a moment to swap over so that one can have a break.

Like I said fatigue will hurt you and your photography. You might worry that missing out 10-20 or even 30 mins might cut down your profits and potential, but if you get heavily fatigued then you might be throwing away as many or more photos later in teh day when your arms are aching, your mind is totally occupied thinking about food and drink and your muscles are getting a bit of a shake.

You might find away to sneak multiple small breaks instead of a big one so can pace it out, but however you do it DO eat, drink and rest at some point.


As for paying the event organisers that's your own call, as you are there commercially and thus earning off your photography. But at the same time if they are happy for you to shoot and you've already paid for your own insurance cover for the event then it might be that you don't "need" to pay. You could call it a donation toward the event to show your support; which means that you'd be able to vary the amount in keeping with how much you earn without obligation
 
Thank you. So, for action should it be set to Release, or Focus + Release, or what?

Set AF-C to release priority. I don't understand this, but that's what was recommended in a video on this topic.
Release priority means the camera will always take the image, even if it thinks the picture wont be in focus.

Thats used because sometimes the photo is in focus anyway, even if the camera doesnt think it is.

It is only useful if you shoot series of images, which is the norm for sports. Then you will have some images not in focus, which is okay because the next images should be in focus again.

If you use release priority it is crucial that you engage the autofocus for a moment before you start shooting images, otherwise the first images you take will always be out of focus.


A few thoughts to add:

1) A subject moving toward the camera at speed is one of the hardest things for the camera to focus upon,
Not even remotely. A subject that moves irratically up close is the toughest challenge. Something that moves in a straight line is childs play in comparison.
 
Thank you. So, for action should it be set to Release, or Focus + Release, or what?

Set AF-C to release priority. I don't understand this, but that's what was recommended in a video on this topic.
Release priority means the camera will always take the image, even if it thinks the picture wont be in focus.

Thats used because sometimes the photo is in focus anyway, even if the camera doesnt think it is.

It is only useful if you shoot series of images, which is the norm for sports. Then you will have some images not in focus, which is okay because the next images should be in focus again.

If you use release priority it is crucial that you engage the autofocus for a moment before you start shooting images, otherwise the first images you take will always be out of focus.


A few thoughts to add:

1) A subject moving toward the camera at speed is one of the hardest things for the camera to focus upon,
Not even remotely. A subject that moves irratically up close is the toughest challenge. Something that moves in a straight line is childs play in comparison.

I use release for sports. I just weed out any oof shots on the first cull.
 
another example

I have the shutter release set for single pt focus and the AF-ON set to horizontal. So if I press the AF-ON, and then the shutter release, might this cause some confusion and result in an out of focused image? I
 

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AF-C to release priority, AF-ON / Back-button focus and single point focus is my preferred, occasionally will use Dynamic or group.

I'm not a big sport / action shooter, but has worked for me in skateboarding shoots etc - but yeah, there's always those throw aways..
 
With a huge, heavy lens like the 600mm f/4, stop using back button focus, and put the focusing where it BELONGS on continuous action subjects: on the shutter release button! Back button focusing is fine for STATIC situations, like baseball, where you want to PRE-focus, like on say, second base, and then LEAVE the focus SET to that exact,precise spot, and then wait for a play at second base.

On something like rodeo calf roping, or barrel racing, using BBF with a massive lens like a 600/4 or even a 300/2.8 is just...stupid. Sorry, but it is.

You have a camera with one of THE most-capable, fastest-responding AF systems ever developed.

Back Button Focus is one of the biggest bits of nonsense ever foisted off on the general photographic public. The fact that you had problems with a TOP-level Nikon sports and action camera, using top-level optics whiles using BBF is a pretty good example of an issue I've seen countless times. BBF is NOT for continuous action!!!! BBF is, in fact, the absolute wrong thing to use when what you REALLy want is for the camera to always,always,always acquire a new focus AS you frame and follow action and shoot. BBF leads to more screw-ups (to put it politely) than fix-ups.
 
With a huge, heavy lens like the 600mm f/4, stop using back button focus, and put the focusing where it BELONGS on continuous action subjects: on the shutter release button! Back button focusing is fine for STATIC situations, like baseball, where you want to PRE-focus, like on say, second base, and then LEAVE the focus SET to that exact,precise spot, and then wait for a play at second base.

On something like rodeo calf roping, or barrel racing, using BBF with a massive lens like a 600/4 or even a 300/2.8 is just...stupid. Sorry, but it is.

You have a camera with one of THE most-capable, fastest-responding AF systems ever developed.

Back Button Focus is one of the biggest bits of nonsense ever foisted off on the general photographic public. The fact that you had problems with a TOP-level Nikon sports and action camera, using top-level optics whiles using BBF is a pretty good example of an issue I've seen countless times. BBF is NOT for continuous action!!!! BBF is, in fact, the absolute wrong thing to use when what you REALLy want is for the camera to always,always,always acquire a new focus AS you frame and follow action and shoot. BBF leads to more screw-ups (to put it politely) than fix-ups.
 
Using BBF as action comes toward you, and you end up Back-focused. A consistent problem, and expected too, especially with a VERY long lens focal length.

Put the focus on the shutter release button, in AF-C mode...and watch as the keeper rate skyrockets.
 
Interesting view Derrel; I've never shot with a 600 but I've always setup BBF on my systems for a number of years, As I mentioned, granted, I'm not a sports / action shooter, but maybe interesting next time I'm shooting skating I might give your setup a try! If so I'll be sure to report back..
 
Derrel so long as your finger knows where to push backbutton will work just the same as a halfshutter press, its purely moving the button that tells it to get started. I agree if you're new to backbutton or if your camera has it in a very odd position then it can be detrimental*. I can also agree that in some cases the handholding might be harder to hold stable if your thumb moves up to the backbutton position rather than the half shutter position.

However if you're using a big 600mm lens all day shooting a spot chances are you are going to use a tripod or a monopod - even more so if you're in one single spot the whole time (or for the majority of the time). Or you're going to lean on a post/rail or wall or other surface. Again this is all to preserve as much energy as you've got and to stave off fatigue for as long as possible. Sure with practice and fitness you can wield that lens handheld all day, but you'll suffer for it come the end and your last hours might be full of more missed focus shots as your steady hand gets far more tired (remembering that the way a camera is built its one arm taking the weight all the time).

Of course many things come down to the individual, I tend to never have an issue and I've used backbutton for so long that my thumb just sits there now ready for it. I also find with sports, esp equine, it means you can shift from doing focus tracking on a moving horse and rider to pre-focusing on a jump without any flicking of switches or such (which can be important as you might be tracking a rider and prefocusing all in the same run)


With my 7D with a battery grip the backbutton is never an issue, what is an issue for me is going portrait and not having a little widget to move the focus point on the battery grip ;)
 
I guess that maybe why I've never had an issue, as I had BBF for years, it's automatic for my thumb to be there when I am shooting and it rests naturally; It does cause a problem when the better half tries some shots though haha
 
I guess that maybe why I've never had an issue, as I had BBF for years, it's automatic for my thumb to be there when I am shooting and it rests naturally; It does cause a problem when the better half tries some shots though haha

Rare for someone else to grab my camera, but yeah they can never work it out! Worst thing is I can never remember where to change it in the settings (its one of those buy camera - set back button - never touch again)
 
Rare for someone else to grab my camera, but yeah they can never work it out! Worst thing is I can never remember where to change it in the settings (its one of those buy camera - set back button - never touch again)

Rare for me too! But I still know who the boss is :D and to be fair she has a keen interest and loves to come shooting with me so I am always happy to encourage.
 
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AF-C is ON
Continuous shooting mode.
moving subject

1. Will holding the AF-ON (BBF) engage the autofocus and keep it engaged so as to track a moving target?
2. Will pressing the shutter release past half way, engage the AF and keep it engaged so as to track a moving target?
3. While holding the BBF which is set to a different mode than the shutter release, and full press on the shutter release, what impact does this have on the AF system? Will it continue to Auto-focus? (I wonder about AF confusion with two AF modes set, one on the shutter release and the other on the BBF)

Today I will return to the Trap Shooting venue and test both methods. I will use a 600mm with a 1.4 TC

I hope to have enough time to experiment with all the focus modes. Rain is forecast.


the attached files are not sharp. I need to figure this out today.
 

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