How to get the white background bright

[cgipson1]

Another thing to be careful of is light boucing off your background, like the shot above with the gentleman with the silly hat notice his right shoulder

Gary.. I like that silly hat! And yes.. I should have been a little farther from the background!

 

[gsgary]

Please suggest the power of the bulbs also as I will end up buying anything. Will it be ok to use 2 x 125W(525W equ) Daylight Bulbs for the softbox for the subject and slightly higher bulbs for the background? If I use these continous lights I hope there won't be any use to use the main lights?

You will need a main light for your subject, what are you shooting ?

 

[brothersanju]

Can you please send me some links to the background lights as you said "bare speedlights or monos with aluminum bowl reflectors ".

 

[brothersanju]

I am shooting products. Clothing on mannequin.

 

[gsgary]

I am shooting products. Clothing on mannequin.

Do you have to shoot on white ?

 

[brothersanju]

Yes mainly it will be using white background. The mannequin I am using is now black but there will be one white one as well.

 

[cgipson1]

Can you please send me some links to the background lights as you said "bare speedlights or monos with aluminum bowl reflectors ".

Check out the Flashpoint 320's... from Adorama.. very inexpensive, and do a great job. You could go with speedlights, like like the Yongnuo 560 or something.. but the monos are more powerful and easier to use.

FP320M Flashpoint II 320M, 150 Watt Second AC / DC Monolight Strobe.

 

[brothersanju]

Thanks

Can you please send me some links to the background lights as you said "bare speedlights or monos with aluminum bowl reflectors ".

Check out the Flashpoint 320's... from Adorama.. very inexpensive, and do a great job. You could go with speedlights, like like the Yongnuo 560 or something.. but the monos are more powerful and easier to use.

FP320M Flashpoint II 320M, 150 Watt Second AC / DC Monolight Strobe.

 

[Bossy]

Something like that. I can't help you with the wattage, I really think you're over your head in this. Check out websites like B&H or Adorama for speedlights or monos. I imagine you're hoping to do this with a few lightbulbs from walmart, which I don't see happening for a full size set. Who knows, maybe you can work it out

 

[gsgary]

Thanks

Can you please send me some links to the background lights as you said "bare speedlights or monos with aluminum bowl reflectors ".

Check out the Flashpoint 320's... from Adorama.. very inexpensive, and do a great job. You could go with speedlights, like like the Yongnuo 560 or something.. but the monos are more powerful and easier to use.

FP320M Flashpoint II 320M, 150 Watt Second AC / DC Monolight Strobe.

Look here Studio Lights & Photography Flash Lighting Equipment UK Specialists! - Lencarta i have some of theirs very good for the money getting great reveiws

 

[unpopular]

Can you please send me some links to the background lights as you said "bare speedlights or monos with aluminum bowl reflectors ".

Check out the Flashpoint 320's... from Adorama.. very inexpensive, and do a great job. You could go with speedlights, like like the Yongnuo 560 or something.. but the monos are more powerful and easier to use.FP320M Flashpoint II 320M, 150 Watt Second AC / DC Monolight Strobe.

I use the brand which adorama relables as Flashpoint. They are very good, and from what I can measure the 300ws units I own produce more light that the 400ws Alienbees according to their own specifications.

 

[Derrel]

Yep, you need more light on the background to keep it white in the photo. >SNIP>

Yes, more light on the background will make it appear whiter.That is one way of accomplishing your goal.

A second way is one I use a LOT, but which many people never even think of. It's called "key-shifting".

If you keep the SAME amount of light on the background, but use LESS LIGHT on the subject than you were using, the RATIO of background-to-foreground lighting will change.

This will also require an exposure adjustment to brighten up the foreground subject; so to compensate for the LOWER light you are using on the foreground subject, you will need to open up the lens OR elevate the ISO level a click or two or three. (or a combination)

A good example would be a backdrop lighted by 2 x 100 watt lamps, and a foreground lighted by one 75-watt lamp...background is not white enough...so, you SHIFT the foreground light downward to a 40-watt lamp, and elevate the ISO two clicks....BOOM! Pure white background.

 

[unpopular]

Jesus Darrel. Just make things confusing why don't you isn't this just what I suggested?

 

[Derrel]

Jesus Darrel. Just make things confusing why don't you isn't this just what I suggested?

I don't know...I didn't read much except the OP's problem, and the first few posts...I then wrote my reply with a really "basic" sort of "beginner-level" terms, geared toward what I thought was a first-time product shooter who might not be familiar with the whole concept of product photography. I did not read your suggestions...

 

[unpopular]

Its been a while since you were a beginner, huh, old man?

But I agree, it's a better way to think of it. Instead of dumping some arbitrary amount of light on the background, it makes more sense to control the difference in light between the foreground and background and use exposure to control brightness.