I'm surprised at how much light I need!

[Leftyplayer]

I've been surprised at just how much light is needed to actually get a good picture in the situations I'm trying to photograph. What my eye seems to think is perfectly good for a shot, the camera's like, "too dark, give me more light". I keep hitting the upper limits of my ISO, wider limits of my aperture and slower limits of my shutter speed! (hope I got that all right LOL!). Granted, I should probably stop trying to photograph strangers running down dark alleys -- street photography in N.Y. area -- : )

The conundrums of a beginner-ish. I've been pondering/ struggling with this for some weeks, with varying results (and clearly limited gear, which I'm okay with btw because it's forcing me to think and learn and develop a steadier hand) and thought I'd now ask the grown-ups what they think and how they work when the camera wants more light, and the thing is moving, and YOU need to keep moving after it.

Or is this a case of "buy the 430ex and the 85mm 1.8 and you'll be all set". Cuz, yes, I'll be doing that too :mrgreen:. I already have the tripod, but that doesn't work well for chasing strangers around NYC (though maybe I should try it, the tripod that is ... set up a tripod right on times square and let the chips fall - won't I look self-important LOL Anyway, it's like I'm too often stuck choosing between "over-exposed" or "blurry".

Disclaimer: don't worry, I don't really chase strangers around NYC ... but boy do these NY'ers move fast and, yes it requires quick movements from me to get the shot.

 

[Light Artisan]

Yeah, it's a tough situation... unfortunately all you can do is get faster glass or add light at that point.

Sounds like you've got the bases covered, off to a good start.

 

[jamesdavidboro]

To be honest i like pictures that show motion blur. Night shots are my favourite. As long as the background is sharp i don't mind a bit of ghosting/motion blur.

 

[David Dvir]

It's just part of the stage that you're in I suppose. We all deal/dealt with lack of light at some point. There are ways around it, but they often involve money. Do you best, gear will come, but don't consider your shots "bad" or anything Noise and blur don't help tell the story, but they don't really hurt THAT much either

 

[KenC]

Some of the newer Rebels will give you another two stops in ISO. Figure out what focal length you use most or like most and get a prime lens - max aperture on the prime should be a couple of stops faster.

 

[Leftyplayer]

Thanks, glad to hear it's a normal part of the process. I'll keep at it and, hopefully, be better trained by the time better gear comes along.

 

[ababysean]

from your siggie I'm assuming you have two kit lenses. I would say you should get a 50mm 1.8, yes it is NOT zoom, but it is a cheap lens (if you don't want to spend 2000 dollars on a zooom) and you can see the difference a wider aperture value makes. You will be able to shoot in darker areas with less noise and a faster shutter. You might have to get closer, so watch out for those crazy NY'ers (haha j/k) but then you can get hooked and start saving for a better zoom lens.

 

[Leftyplayer]

ababysean: Yes, I only have the two kit lenses. I wouldn't mind the 50mm 1.8 and could get it right now (it's so CHEAP!) ... but I've been held back by the few reviews on Amazon from people saying that it ruined their camera by getting stuck on it, or else it fell apart. It's only a very few minority giving that review ... but I always find myself being in that 1% of the "rarely happens" cases :er:. I figured I'd just save for the 85mm, which is more along the lines of the distance from subjects I like.

 

[o hey tyler]

What reviews on Amazon have you read about the Canon 50mm getting stuck on a camera?

 

[KmH]

The human eye doesn't work in a linear fashion, digital cameras do.

So, the camera can only record a portion of what your eye can see.

The key, is learning to use the camera's light meter to accurately define what exactly the camera can see. DSLR's even give you 3 metering modes to help out with that task: Matrix (Nikon)/Evaluative(Canon), Center-weighted, and Spot.

 

[ababysean]

what? lol what reviews said that?

 

[Aerin328]

Lefty, I have the "plastic" 50mm f/1.8 Canon and also had read reviews about it getting stuck on certain bodies (and actually in the review I read the poster was able to break the lens off and continue using the body). I find that if you are simply careful / gentle with taking it on and off there's no problem with it. Seems that you'd only have a problem getting it stuck if you really jammed it on there. The f/1.8 really is quite fast in relatively low light- I've been able to take some very nice clean shots at wedding receptions and the like. Course at open apertures that comes with a crazy shallow depth of field, esp. at close distances. This is a neat site to check out to that end : Online Depth of Field Calculator <-- Can determine DoF by any lens, camera, aperture, and distance. Anyway, I recommend the 50mm f/1.8. I've enjoyed it so much that when $ is avail. I might bump up to the f/1.4.

Care to share any of your NYC chase shots?