As Dao mentioned, when trying to trouble-shoot what went wrong, it really helps to include the EXIF data in the images... or just type in the exposure info in your post.
I noticed that #2 seems to have left-right motion blur on his face as if he was turning his head when you shot this. But his lower body doesn't have the same motion blur. Based on this, I think the shutter speed was slow.
If you shoot in JPEG, picking the white balance mode works when there's one type of light, but you don't get to pick two modes for the same shot ... unless you use "custom white balance". CWB requires a neutral target (typically a "gray card" -- not just anything gray-ish, but a card with a color designed to be a perfect neutral gray (equal levels of all colors... so that it doesn't have a color cast.) It's an extra step, but if you're frustrated with color balance then you may want to get one. Essentially you take a photo of the gray card such that it either fills the frame or at least dominates the center of the frame (it does not need to be in focus... and sometimes it's better that it not be in focus.) Then select the CWB mode. The camera will usually prompt you to select the image to be used for CWB and you pick the image you took with the gray card. Just don't forget to turn off CWB or re-establish the new reference frame for CWB if your lighting changes.
If you shoot in RAW, just take a photo that has the gray card in it (no need to be centered or dominating the frame -- just make sure the card is in the same lighting conditions as your subjects.) You fix the white balance when you post process the image by telling your photo editing/adjustment tool to set white balance by clicking a point on that gray card. You can then copy the white balance adjustment to all other images shot in the same light.
Though you can buy gray cards from camera stores, you can use anything as long as it's guaranteed to be neutral (you could use a white piece of paper... but if that "white" piece of paper technically has a bit of a yellow cast to it, then the camera will compensate by trying to remove the "yellow" and you'll probably end up everyone betting a bit blue/cool.)
You can get fussier than just a gray card alone. But it's usually not necessary. If you were doing commercial work where product colors were critical, then you'd go beyond just a simple gray card.