It's the Beetles!

SpenserEller · Jun 6, 2021

1.
Olympus OMD EM5 Mkii
60mm, ISO 200, f/3.2, 1/160sec

2.
Olympus OMD EM5 Mkii
60mm, ISO 250, f/7.1, 1/125sec

3.
Olympus OMD EM5 Mkii
60mm, ISO 200, f/2.8, 1/1250sec

4.
Olympus OMD EM5 Mkii
60mm, ISO 320, f/3.2, 1/125sec

BrentC · Jun 7, 2021

You have a fantastic macro lens there. I would use a flash with a diffuser and get closer to subject. You can get a lot more detailed shots than that.
Or try the built-in focus stacking in the EM5.
last on was much better but too shallow DOF

SpenserEller · Jun 7, 2021

BrentC said:
You have a fantastic macro lens there. I would use a flash with a diffuser and get closer to subject. You can get a lot more detailed shots than that.
Or try the built-in focus stacking in the EM5.
last on was much better but too shallow DOF

Thank you. I appreciate the feedback. I have a couple of questions:

1. Is there a flash you would recommend that wouldn't break the bank? The Olympus model is a little out of my price range. I'm currently using a Travor ring flash (I believe it is the same as this one Neewer RF550D LED Macro Ring Light). The problem with it is the camera can only trigger the flash. It does not make any adjustments to the settings. so when I use it as a flash, the images are always washed out, so I find I get better results just using it as a light, which is not ideal.

2. When focusing in close, is there a way to keep reasonable still without using a tripod? I must wobble back and forth a bit because I have problems with still subjects going in and out of focus. I don't think using a tripod is practical when dealing with insects. Just for reference, I attempted to get decent focus on the beetle's head in the image below and after several attempts, this was the best I could do.

BrentC · Jun 7, 2021

SpenserEller said:
Thank you. I appreciate the feedback. I have a couple of questions:

1. Is there a flash you would recommend that wouldn't break the bank? The Olympus model is a little out of my price range. I'm currently using a Travor ring flash (I believe it is the same as this one Neewer RF550D LED Macro Ring Light). The problem with it is the camera can only trigger the flash. It does not make any adjustments to the settings. so when I use it as a flash, the images are always washed out, so I find I get better results just using it as a light, which is not ideal.

2. When focusing in close, is there a way to keep reasonable still without using a tripod? I must wobble back and forth a bit because I have problems with still subjects going in and out of focus. I don't think using a tripod is practical when dealing with insects. Just for reference, I attempted to get decent focus on the beetle's head in the image below and after several attempts, this was the best I could do.
View attachment 244949

As for flashes, both Neewer and Godox have flashes that will work with Olympus TTL and not expensive. Something like this Godox TT685O Thinklite TTL Flash for Olympus/Panasonic Cameras
Just make sure what you get is compatible with Olympus TTL.

You can adjust the power on your ring light manually but I think your big issue would be not using a diffuser. A diffuser is a must for these macro shots.

As for your second question, using a flash will help greatly with that. I find that in most cases using a flash with diffuser, AF and TTL work quite well and can give great results. But sometimes you do need to manually set the power on the flash. Especially when shooting bright colours like white or yellow flowers and even more so when the sun is out. Otherwise you can get blown highlights even with TTL.

With the Oly 60mm you can also do 1:1. When using 1:1 or when I add my Raynox diopter I set my camera in MF. Then I use distance to focus on subject. Move in and out until its in focus where you want it then snap the pic. AF is impossible to use when lens in 1:1.

I am currently using a small box type diffuser that i bought cheap, works pretty well but I am thinking of building a couple to try this year. One is from a Pringles can diffuser, you can just Google "pringles diffuser" and the other from this video:

The EM5 and Oly 60mm is pretty good combo for macro. Also try playing around with Focus stacking/bracketing. I have used it without tripods but you want decent light and faster shutter speed, also helps if the subject is still.

Space Face · Jun 7, 2021

Love the head detail on the last. The shallow dof don't bother me so much as you have the relevant bit in focus.

You're right to forget about a tripod for in the field insect shots. Useless for all but the most static of subjects imo. I similarly set the focus as close as I can and move the camera back and forth to try an nail it. Takes practice, a steady hand and lots of near misses but it's great when it comes together.

I use the Yongnuo YN24EX E TTL flash but I dunno if they do them for Olympus. Olympus's own version seems to be about $300-$400 which is more that twice the price of the Yongnuo. Regardless of the model I'd go for a similar twin head as opposed to a constant led ring or ring flash.

The Yongnuo is a brilliant piece of kit and I have diffuser hoods on my twin heads filled with white packing foam. Here's a quick example (I'll remove it from your Thread if you wish). This is hand held and not a stack. (I've no ide why the font has changed).

Good luck.

SpenserEller · Jun 7, 2021

Thank you both for the advice. I will be looking into some of the gear you recommended.

SpenserEller · Jun 7, 2021

Space Face said:
Love the head detail on the last. The shallow dof don't bother me so much as you have the relevant bit in focus.

You're right to forget about a tripod for in the field insect shots. Useless for all but the most static of subjects imo. I similarly set the focus as close as I can and move the camera back and forth to try an nail it. Takes practice, a steady hand and lots of near misses but it's great when it comes together.

I use the Yongnuo YN24EX E TTL flash but I dunno if they do them for Olympus. Olympus's own version seems to be about $300-$400 which is more that twice the price of the Yongnuo. Regardless of the model I'd go for a similar twin head as opposed to a constant led ring or ring flash.

The Yongnuo is a brilliant piece of kit and I have diffuser hoods on my twin heads filled with white packing foam. Here's a quick example (I'll remove it from your Thread if you wish). This is hand held and not a stack. (I've no ide why the font has changed).

Good luck.

View attachment 244954

That is an incredible image. I've been trying to get a similar picture, but so far this is the best I've been able to do:

Space Face · Jun 7, 2021

SpenserEller said:
That is an incredible image. I've been trying to get a similar picture, but so far this is the best I've been able to do:
View attachment 244959

I'm sure I took that with the Canon MP E-65 which goes up to 5x mag although it's very difficult to control at that end. I also have a Venus Optics 60mm which goes 2x mag, it's a great budget lens too.

Time and practice is/are the key/s and don't get frustrated with lots of throwaway shots. If I go Macro togging for a couple of hours and rattle off a hundred shots, I'm happy if I get a handful of that quality. Because of the shallow focus plane it is hard at higher mags to get the focus bang on but as you can see it is very possible.

Stacking was mentioned but it's not something I've tried nor am I really keen on trying it. Some kill the insects to get them static to fire off sometimes hundreds of shots to do stacks. The end results are amazing but for me, if you can't get good results without killing a creature then it's gone too far. I find it quite abhorrent to be honest. Don't get me wrong, I'm no hippy, animal rights, anti hunting, shooting, fishing nut job. I just won't deliberately kill, injure or disable a creature so I can get the money shot of it.

BrentC · Jun 7, 2021

SpenserEller said:
That is an incredible image. I've been trying to get a similar picture, but so far this is the best I've been able to do:
View attachment 244959

You would need to use your lens in 1:1 mode and get much closer. And/or add something like a Raynox dcr-250. I have used that Oly 60mm in 1:1 with the Raynox attached with great results. It will take some practice using at that magnification. Forget AF and just use distance to focus