Kinda Upset....

[benpsut]

But I gotta keep trying. Once again I don't take things slow and just fire away at the shutter lol

nothings really in focus except the house, should have closed the aperture more than it was.


WHY all this noise even at an ISO of 100? I'm no COMPLETE beginner, been doing this for a little over a year and am really shocked at the noise. I cleaned the lens before i shot this, and the ISO was at 100. I shot this at 1 hour and 4 minutes with the aperture set a F9. Possibly because of the long exposure?

Any help on the 2nd one would be appreciated, I know what i did wrong on the 1st one, just thought id share. Also here are some from a few days ago...

Ben :mrgreen:

 

[Slaphead]

Re no. 2. I'm fairly new to this but I think an exposure for 1 hour 4 minutes even on the lowest ISO setting is going to mean noise. In fact given the exposure length I'm impressed that it's not noisier.

 

[TamiyaGuy]

I think long time exposures can generate "hot pixels", which are individual pixels completely red. Slaphead's right, though, I'm impressed it isn't noisier.

All of the images seem to be a bit underexposed, but other than that, nice work!

 

[tirediron]

Why be upset? You've already identified the problem, you need to slow down and (if you'll pardon the pun) focus on what you're doing. The award-winning image you see in a gallery, or full-page ad in Sports Illustrated? You can bet that one image is the result of hundreds of megabytes of deleted data, and hours of work. Just like a painter doesn't create a masterpiece in two minutes, nor is a photograph (usually).

Again, you've answered your own question. One of the areas of photography for digital isn't ideally suited are very long exposures. This is because over time the sensor heats up and induces noise; in this case, extreme noise. There are programs such as Noise Ninja which will reduce this, but like all software, they're only so good.

Just my $00.02 worth - your milage may vary.

~John

 

[rdompor]

nothings really in focus except the house, should have closed the aperture more than it was.

I think that what you're seeing here is motion blur rather than a consequence of the aperture being too wide. Since the scene appears to have been rather dark, I assume you had to use a long exposure time to get the shot and well, clouds move.

 

[doenoe]

In #1 its motion blur from the clouds. If im correct you used a 30 second exposure. In that time the clouds will move a bit, which causes the blur. The house isnt going anywhere, so its sharp. Closing up the lens will not help, since you will a longer shutterspeed. Thus making the clouds even more blurred.

 

[benpsut]

Thanks for the help guys, so in a situation where I want to freeze motion but keep that low light to show off the colors of the sun setting such as the house and clouds, what should I do? Increase the shutter speed and open up the aperture? I guess this is one of those situations where bryan peterson calls it a "who cares" aperture. Where everything is in focus.

 

[rasheemo]

i would think increasing aperture and shutter speed would resolve this problem. Do you have the EXIF information?

 

[benpsut]

Eh, not on this computer, but im pretty sure the aperture was closed up. Thank you ALL for the help! really appreciate it!

 

[Mystwalker]

i would think increasing aperture and shutter speed would resolve this problem. Do you have the EXIF information?

Sorry - can you elaborate on this?

I thought it was a 30-sec shot. How will increasing the shutter speed help when it is set for 30-sec? Also, I thought, to get shots with shutter open for a longer time, you need to be in "bulb" mode? This setting on Canon is controlled by shutter speed wheel - basically, "bulb" is shutter speed on Canon, I think. Now am really confused

 

[rasheemo]

well increasing aperture would be increasing exposure kind of like having a long shutter. but since the clouds move he must increase the speed of the shutter to prevent the blurring.

i could be wrong though =[

 

[sabbath999]

i would think increasing aperture and shutter speed would resolve this problem. Do you have the EXIF information?

His EXIF:

Equipment Make: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS DIGITAL REBEL XTi
Camera Software: Adobe Photoshop Elements 4.0 Windows

Image-Specific Properties:

Exposure Time: 30 sec
F-Number: f/8.0
Exposure Program: Manual
ISO Speed Rating: 100
Lens Aperture: f/8.0
Exposure Bias: 0 EV
Flash: No Flash, Compulsory
Focal Length: 55.00 mm
Color Space Information: sRGB
Image Width: 1000
Image Height: 667
Rendering: Normal
Exposure Mode: Manual
White Balance: Auto

 

[rasheemo]

ah i see that now. thank you =]

i just got a firefox extension to make EXIF viewing a bit easier

 

[SBlanca]

would've thought an hour+ long exposure would melt the sensor haha

 

[benpsut]

would've thought an hour+ long exposure would melt the sensor haha

hope not! tryin to sell the camera.


But correct me if I'm wrong guys, closing the aperture up all the way it can go and then increasing the shutter speed SHOULD freeze the clouds correct? Or should I just simply increase ISO so I can use a wider Aperture and faster shutter speed?