Learning how to shoot manually...EEK!

[allinschenk]

I've read "Understanding Exposure" but still need some help in learning how to shoot manually. Are there any good books out there? Thanks.

 

[PASM]

I'm sure there are. There's also forums like this too Ask a specific question here and get an answer. What do you need to know?

 

[allinschenk]

I'm basically looking for a step by step guide or any kind of visual charts to help explain the process of choosing the correct manual settings.

 

[EckoZero]

Well... that would depend entirely on what image you want

If you want a silhouetted tree against a bright sky then the settings would be a lot different for a perfectly exposed lake shot for example.
Manual mode is a lot of trial and error really - the beauty of digital is that you can keep trying.

I find it helpful to keep a small notepad and pen in my camera bag so that if I hit on something good I can make a note of it.

 

[Light Artisan]

'Correct manual settings'

Only you can know what that is... If all you are doing is making 'proper' exposures, throw it in program, aperture or shutter priority and rock on. Manual mode is for creative exposure or tricky situations that the auto settings may not get right. It's not a secret magic mode that makes photos better once you learn how to use it.

 

[PASM]

Maybe the OP can be more specific...I'm sincerely interested in helping but the 60D operations manual should explain it.
allinschenk, do you mean how to use it creatively? e.g Aperture/Depth of Field?

 

[KmH]

As explained in "Understanding Exposure" there are 8 or so combinations of the exposure triad settings that will give a properly exposed image.

Only 1 of those 8 or so combinations will yield the best artistic exposure. You are the artist. You decide which set to use.

If there is motion in the scene and you what ever is moving to be sharply focused, you need enough shutter speed to stop that motion. The more shutter speed you use, the wide the aperture has to be opened.

In other words, if you increase one of the 3 exposure setting, to maintain the same exposure you have to decrease one of the other 2 the same amount, or decrease each of the other 2 by half to equal the one you increased.

• Changing the shutter speed effects how the camera stops motion, and how much lens aperture you can use. (faster shutter speeds stop motion better, but require larger lens apertures)
• Changing lens aperture effects the depth-of-field (DOF) and how much shutter speed you can use. Smaller apertures increase the DOF, but make you use slower shutter speeds)
• Changing the ISO effects how much noise the is in the photo, and can effect both how much shutter speed and how much aperture you use. (ISO sets how sensitive to light the image sensor is. Low ISO is less sensitive to light (use in direct sunlight) and high ISO is more sensitive to light (increase ISO as there is less light, but that can be disregarded if you use flash).

 

[Patrice]

There are some among us who can be instantly proficient at a skill but the rest of us mortals have to work at it. Proficiency at a skill comes with experimentation, analysis and practice.

Take a look at your store of images and pick about half a dozen you feel are technically your best. Not just the ones with the cute babies and pretty girls. Look for images where you judge the exposure and depth of field are at their best. This will not be the same images for everyone. Only you can decide which of your images you would like to be able to replicate at will. Now look at the exif data for those images, it will tell you the aperture, focal length, shutter speed and iso. Take notes. Go out with one of those images in hand and your notes. Set the camera at the same settings and take a photo. If the light is the same then you will get a similar result. Change one setting only by one stop and take a photo. It will not be the same. Change only one of the other settings by one stop either way and now look at your image with a critical eye and note your result. Keep adjusting that same setting one stop at a time until you have an image you are satisfied with. Do this repeatedly for each control parameter. Repeat this process in different light situations. Remember to take notes and be very critical in your self evaluation, you'll know what your after when you see it. After a while you will notice that you will have developed an uncanny ability to judge pretty accurately the exposure settings needed to expose almost any particular scene to achieve the image you saw in your mind's eye. The camera will have become an extension of your thinking process and will thence be a tool you manipulate at will.

Good luck with it, it's a bit of work but the results are worthwhile and certainly achievable if you want it.

Pat

 

[IgsEMT]

As mentioned before........

Only you can know what that is... If all you are doing is making 'proper' exposures, throw it in program, aperture or shutter priority and rock on. Manual mode is for creative exposure or tricky situations that the auto settings may not get right. It's not a secret magic mode that makes photos better once you learn how to use it.

Next Q is what are you shooting?
I mostly shoot weddings and for such I need to freeze action so the shutter speed is anywhere b/n 1/80-1/200 of a sec. Next step is the ISO - if I'm outdoors it would be low and if i'm in-doors it would be higher. last but not least is f-stop - it would be set properly expose the scene w/ given shutter speed and iso.
So to be a bit more clear, let's say I'm outdoors on a somewhat sunny day that is pretty directional - ISO 200, 1/160sec, f/8 if facing the sun that is behind my subjects (i get a nice silhouette) and f11 if the sun is behind me light the subjects as my flash would.
If i'm indoors, my room lights give me about 5.6-8 on the floor/background, while my on-camera flash and assistant's flash together will give me directional light at about f/8 ( maintaining iso 400 and 1/125 sec).

When I'm in my studio shooting portraits or even products, ISO 200, 1/200sec (i want to eliminate all ambient light possible) and adjust aperture to give me optimal exposure: I'll work with f/8-11 for people (kids like to move closer to light so I'll stop down at those times) and for product will be at f/11-16 depending on what product.
Now if I want specific look at either one of the cases, the numbers above will change.

hope it helps.
good luck
joe