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smoke665

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ApertureF11Sniper

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I vaguely remember the K20D, but not much on the operation, lots of changes in 14 years. I believe it has the highlight alerts, but the settings were different then. If you have the manual it should tell you. If not go to Operation Manuals Download : Support & Service | RICOH IMAGING scroll down to Discontinued Models, the K20D will be first. Click on manual to download
Yeah something to consider but I manage without it....I will look to see if it is a feature on the K20D...... I know a shooter he shots Canon and he had this button that said "Jump" and I asked what it was, he said "Marketing".....He said "I only use 3 features on the camera, it's all I need". He is one of the best i have ever seen as well. They do put things on the camera you do not need.

Hey thanks for the link and the info, thanks for looking out for me.
 

petrochemist

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A) So your saying my associate a well established photographer who's shot all over the world published in National Geographic and Mens Journal does not know what he's talking about B) and your saying that ISO has no relevance when taking a picture?.......
A/ You quoted him as saying 'full frame will pretty much eliminate the need for a tripod' this is garbage as there are many applications where a tripod (or similar) remains critical. Noise is much less of an issue than it was and you often won't need a tripod purely because the light is poor, but this is a very long way from eliminate the need. In his field the tripod may well have become irrelevant, but his field is not the same as photography in general.
B/ Not at all, just that when you need a long exposure to get an effect turning up the ISO will not get you there, indeed you may want to turn it down further than the camera will go & be forced to use ND filters instead.
 

smoke665

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Not at all, just that when you need a long exposure to get an effect turning up the ISO will not get you there, indeed you may want to turn it down further than the camera will go & be forced to use ND filters instead.

I would agree to a point. Noise due to heat build up in the sensor during long exposures can be an issue in night shots. Desired DOF is another factor. I've shot low light long exposures at high ISO, and daylight with NDs and base ISO. In both cases you're balancing the exposure triangle for the correct exposure.
 

smoke665

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I know a shooter he shots Canon and he had this button that said "Jump" and I asked what it was, he said "Marketing".....He said "I only use 3 features on the camera, it's all I need". He is one of the best i have ever seen as well. They do put things on the camera you do not need.

I call BS again. I have a friend that has a top of the line Canon, never takes it off full Auto. Whatever menu settings it had when he got it have never been changed. He spent thousands of dollars on equipment to take the same photos I could get with a cell phone. If that's what you want then so be it, but if you want to create, to produce an image that goes beyond the cell phone snap, you have to learn your equipment, otherwise you have no idea if the features you dismissed are needed or not.
 
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ApertureF11Sniper

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I call BS again. I have a friend that has a top of the line Canon, never takes it off full Auto. Whatever menu settings it had when he got it have never been changed. He spent thousands of dollars on equipment to take the same photos I could get with a cell phone. If that's what you want then so be it, but if you want to create, to produce an image that goes beyond the cell phone snap, you have to learn your equipment, otherwise you have no idea if the features you dismissed are needed or not.
You misunderstood my post or I have a lack of clarity to it both of which are not uncommon. The only thing I shoot on auto is auto focus and this is the same with the guy I mentioned who shoots Canon....The "Jump" button I asked about, in short something he would never use and he viewed as a gimmick or something for marketing.....

Shooting in full auto is not photography....ANYONE can hit a button. And I'm sure there will be those who disagree with me as a matter of opinion.

You have 4 things you need to adjust to take a picture and only 4, 3 things if using a prime lens. All you need is those 3 things. Some cameras have additional features that may help but it you know what your doing YOU DO NOT NEED THEM.....Like a hand held light meter. Never used one and never will, if I can't trust the light meter on my camera I need to get a new camera. There are things that can throw a light meter off but you learn those situations and learn to compensate when in those situations. Any camera I upgrade to there's only 3 features I need to know to get an exceptional image. THATS IT.....In fact I can go back to a film camera and get better images then guys who are shooting with all these bells and whistles. Case in point my mentor Chuck Guildner who shot film right up till recent years and his work dwarfs anyone on this forum. He's in the top 10% of photographers and thats why he was featured in Lens Work Magazine....With a FILM camera that has none of these things.
 

smoke665

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You misunderstood my post or I have a lack of clarity to it both of which are not uncommon.

They do put things on the camera you do not need.


I don't think I did. From your post. Above. Just like other posts, you seem to quote others or make generalized comments without full context. As Petrochemist tried to explain back on page one, different scenarios have different requirements. Most competent photographers, myself included have spent years honing their craft, learning their equipment. We have a thorough knowledge of the features and sub menu's on our cameras. Do I use all of them....not all the time, but on occasion yes when the need arises. To have someone simply write off that knowledge is offensive.

ou have 4 things you need to adjust to take a picture and only 4, 3 things if using a prime lens. All you need is those 3 things. Some cameras have additional features that may help but it you know what your doing YOU DO NOT NEED THEM.....Like a hand held light meter. Never used one and never will, if I can't trust the light meter on my camera I need to get a new camera.

Another unfounded statement without context to substantiate. In studio I'm on full manual for one reason only......everything is controlled, and constant. I'm tethered to a laptop with LR that gives me real time information on each shot. Could I set up and shoot without a light meter, maybe with only one light, by guess or trial and error, but try that with a 2,3,4,6 light set and ratios, see how far you get. Not to mention your client would likely walk out on you because you're wasting their time. A camera meter reads reflected light only, not incident. The same holds true for outside shots when you're using supplemental lighting. Now what about run and gun shooting with a speedlight where you have constantly changing lighting, apparently you have no understanding how TTL or in Pentax case, P-TTL works, the flash only communicates with the camera on one of the auto settings (A,P,Sv,Tv,Av,Tv modes). Footnote the P mode is Pentax's hyper mode that allows me to go from one of the other modes to full auto and back with click of the dial. What about Exposure compensation??? Do you use it/know what it's for???? Do you know "how" a camera meter works? That it only reads reflected light, how much, is determined by how reflective the subject is.

I've been at this since the late 60's and as equipment has improved I've heard the same old worn out cliches "Well I only shoot manual" over and over. Usually it's from those who haven't taken the time to learn their equipment. I'm not trying to be harsh with you, but unfortunately, "you don't know what you don't know".
 
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snowbear

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It sounds like you have it all figured out. Congratulations.

You have 4 things you need to adjust to take a picture and only 4, 3 things if using a prime lens.
Please, let us know what these are, especially those if I am using a prime lens.
 

crzyfotopeeple

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You misunderstood my post or I have a lack of clarity to it both of which are not uncommon. The only thing I shoot on auto is auto focus and this is the same with the guy I mentioned who shoots Canon....The "Jump" button I asked about, in short something he would never use and he viewed as a gimmick or something for marketing.....

Shooting in full auto is not photography....ANYONE can hit a button. And I'm sure there will be those who disagree with me as a matter of opinion.

You have 4 things you need to adjust to take a picture and only 4, 3 things if using a prime lens. All you need is those 3 things. Some cameras have additional features that may help but it you know what your doing YOU DO NOT NEED THEM.....Like a hand held light meter. Never used one and never will, if I can't trust the light meter on my camera I need to get a new camera. There are things that can throw a light meter off but you learn those situations and learn to compensate when in those situations. Any camera I upgrade to there's only 3 features I need to know to get an exceptional image. THATS IT.....In fact I can go back to a film camera and get better images then guys who are shooting with all these bells and whistles. Case in point my mentor Chuck Guildner who shot film right up till recent years and his work dwarfs anyone on this forum. He's in the top 10% of photographers and thats why he was featured in Lens Work Magazine....With a FILM camera that has none of these things.
Just remember folks. There's only 3 features you NEED to know with a prime lens. HaHa, LMAO.

And don't forget you are only a real photographer if you "only shoot manual". All the other functions on a pro level camera are just there for looks, nobody needs those! </s>

Then name drop, name drop, name drop. That means you have to know what you are talking about.
 

cgw

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I don't think I did. From your post. Above. Just like other posts, you seem to quote others or make generalized comments without full context. As Petrochemist tried to explain back on page one, different scenarios have different requirements. Most competent photographers, myself included have spent years honing their craft, learning their equipment. We have a thorough knowledge of the features and sub menu's on our cameras. Do I use all of them....not all the time, but on occasion yes when the need arises. To have someone simply write off that knowledge is offensive.



Another unfounded statement without context to substantiate. In studio I'm on full manual for one reason only......everything is controlled, and constant. I'm tethered to a laptop with LR that gives me real time information on each shot. Could I set up and shoot without a light meter, maybe with only one light, by guess or trial and error, but try that with a 2,3,4,6 light set and ratios, see how far you get. Not to mention your client would likely walk out on you because you're wasting their time. A camera meter reads reflected light only, not incident. The same holds true for outside shots when you're using supplemental lighting. Now what about run and gun shooting with a speedlight where you have constantly changing lighting, apparently you have no understanding how TTL or in Pentax case, P-TTL works, the flash only communicates with the camera on one of the auto settings (A,P,Sv,Tv,Av,Tv modes). Footnote the P mode is Pentax's hyper mode that allows me to go from one of the other modes to full auto and back with click of the dial. What about Exposure compensation??? Do you use it/know what it's for???? Do you know "how" a camera meter works? That it only reads reflected light, how much, is determined by how reflective the subject is.

I've been at this since the late 60's and as equipment has improved I've heard the same old worn out cliches "Well I only shoot manual" over and over. Usually it's from those who haven't taken the time to learn. I'm not trying to be harsh with you, but unfortunately, "you don't know what you don't know".

It sounds like you have it all figured out. Congratulations.


Please, let us know what these are, especially those if I am using a prime lens.
I thought one of those 3 things was making sure you were dressed before leaving the house.
 

crzyfotopeeple

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I'm also really glad to know I can get rid of that pesky tripod when doing astro photography with a star tracker. Just hand hold that sh*t, lol.
 

cdd29

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1. you'll want to use full frame (FA) lenses for the K-1. You can use crop/APS-C (DA) lenses but there are complications. You'll loose resolution as the camera shoots 'crop mode', only using a portion of the sensor as crop lenses are designed to be used on a camera with a smaller sensor & their image circle won't fully cover a full frame sensor. that's a whole different topic though. Basically any K-mount lens will work, but ideally use full frame (Pentax full frame lenses are designated FA, crop sensor lenses designated DA) lenses.
2. As far as a tripod, you'll need one if you're shooting long exposure or using a slow shutter speed. Really depends specifically what you're shooting if you you'll be on a tripod or hand held. And that's any camera, not specific to the K-1.
3. High ISO: the K-1 handles high ISO pretty well but with any camera the higher you turn up the ISO, the more noise you'll run into. There are times you'll need higher ISO but personally I try to shoot as low as ISO as I can get away with.
 

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