Let's put it this way: the best camera I've ever had for action shooting was the Nikon D2x, which was an APS-C camera with an 11-area AF system, with 9 of the 11 sensors being cross-type. For action work in soccer, track and field, baseball, whatever, the absolute best focus tracking and the fastest focus acquisition I ever have been able to get was when using its group dynamic AF in continuous focusing, with a group of four AF points active at one time, with the focus priority always set to release, favoring faster firing at the expense of focusing. I would use the controller to pick my target, and the camera could lock on and follow even erratic action amazingly well!
Single-point, center AF is not always the best for action; additionally, the user is supposed to MANUALLY select the initial AF location using the 4-way controller, and then based on that subject's RGB color analysis, the metering system feeds color data to the focusing system, and THAT is how the system can "follow" action subjects. Was that discussed in the videos? Because that is a critical aspect that many people overlook.
A single person in a skatepark with a 70-200/2.8 AF-S focusing lens is not really an exceptionally difficult subject, and it likely to take up a very large part of the frame, plus the subject is going to move smoothly (it's on wheels) and not all that fast either. With an APS-C camera at skatepark distances, a 70-200 is gonna be TIGHT in its angle of view over most of its length.
Again...3-D tracking focus is helped by having the user select the desired target by using the 4-way controller and placing the desired subject under an AF point, and then the system "sees" the target. Many people do not do this initial step. One can allow the camera to choose the AF points...
Fewer AF points is not always the right idea when tracking moving subjects. On the full-frame cameras even a 21-point AF scheme covers mostly the central-most area of the viewfinder. On the crop-frame Nikons the AF brackets go way out to the margins of the viewfinder. 11- and 21-point AF works pretty well for me. I really think that single-point AF is misguided for following action in the Nikon cameras I have owned; it cripples the camera's systems by eliminating ANY, as in ANY chance of using even one or two close points to keep the focus locked on the subject, which might be low in contrast, like a dark horse, or the side of a white boat, or the Wilson High track runners and their dark green, number-less jersey fronts. Again...Nikon is using high-speed color AND distance analysis for 3-D focus tracking.
The group dynamic 4-point cluster in the D2x could track pole vaulters coming down the runway, and as they planted and moved upward on the "pull", as they crossed the bar, and as they fell, all by using the camera in "tall" mode and having a small group of 4 points active at the top of the frame...if only the center point was active, the subject would NOT be in the middle of the frame much of the time.
Many people are looking for a panacea, a one-size fits all approach, but AF is a complex issue. I would suggest buying the Thom Hogan Guide To The Nikon ________ for your camera, and there you'll be exposed to a hundred pages worth of information about the nuances of how modern Nikon AF systems work, and how and when to try what settings. We've basically moved to 21st Century technology, yet many people are using these cameras as if it's an F4 with ONE, single, smack-dab-middle-of-the-viewfinder AF bracket. You'll find that a lot of birders like the 21-point AF setup. I find 11 point AF pretty reliable.
The whole issue goes back to the source: YouTube videos. Can they always be trusted, implicitly? How accurate is the info, and how appropriate is it to YOUR situation?