Limited $/ Bower 85mm 1.4 or 35mm 1.4/ OR studio lighting kit/ OR speedlite 580ex???

JMBriggs · Oct 7, 2011

I guess this might be too many questions in one but here it is...

I have about $500 to spend on equip. and I want to make sure I make the absolute smartest decision... So I am calling on all of you for some help...

Right now my problem is not enough light for my kit lens (18-55mm f3.5-5.6) so I have to decide between either a studio lighting kit (because I only have $500 it would be continuous, most likely I would go with umbrellas), a better lens with a larger aperture, or a flash probably I would end up going with a speedlite 580ex because I want one powerful enough for weddings.

When it comes to the studio lighting kit, I have never gotten to work with studio lighting, so I am as new as you possibly could be. It is however something I am VERY interested and excited to get into, but the thing that I am hesitating about is that when I am not in my studio I would still have the problem of not enough light.

When it comes to the lenses I am definitely leaning towards this option, however I feel it is going to be difficult if not impossible to buy a good one for only $500... Anybody know the quality of Bower lenses? I picked this brand because I have heard that the glass is better because they took out the AF, in a recent issue of either Shutterbug or PhotoPro (can't remember which) I read a review that said their lens rivaled canon's equivalent... But in the end I really do want a canon L series lens... eventually

Then there is the flash. Not too much to say about that one... Other then I would def need practice in learning how to use it!

Please help! Any opinions or thoughts are appreciated...

dakkon76 · Oct 7, 2011

85mm on a crop is a bit long for studio work unless you want to only do head shots. Get a 50mm, a manual flash for $60 and a starter umbrella/stand kit from amazon for $35.

JMBriggs · Oct 7, 2011

50mm bower? And wouldn't I have to adjust the setting on the flash inbetween each setup? Not a problem in a studio but if I'm snapping candids at an event I'm not sure that would be a good choice.

tirediron · Oct 7, 2011

Manual flash is bone simple, once you get the hang of it. It wasn't all that many years ago that TTL was just a dream in some engineer's eye; ALL our flash work was manual. Studio, street, event. Check out Craig's List and search for Vivitar 285s, Sunpak 300/500 series, etc. They will work just fine for small studio work, or event work alike. I wouldn't drop the $500 on the Bower; aside from the fact that as mentioned, it's a bit long for studio, teh IQ is less than stellar. $100 will get you a nice used 50mm 1.8.

Helen B · Oct 7, 2011

The Bower 35 mm f/1.4 is a rebadged Samyang isn't it? That's a very good lens, especially at the price.

Derrel · Oct 8, 2011

The Bower manual focusing lenses have no automatic diaphragm control in their Canon-mount versions, meaning that the lens must be stopped down manually and or opened up manually; the test report Helen links to mentions that in Nikon mount the Bower 35/1.4 allows aperture control on a Nikon camera body, and that it behaves like a Nikon -P series type lens. I'm not sure if manual control of the diaphragm would be any kind of a deal-breaker for you. Optics-wise the Bower 35mm f/1.4 seems to be a right good lens!!! Same their 85mm f/1.4 lens. I've looked at a lot of samples from thje 85mm on-line--it looks pretty good, especially for the price. As for a lighting kit....I dunno, I think flash-based lighting is the way to go. I would check out the starving student kit sold through Mpex or another Sgtrobist.com vendor.

JMBriggs · Oct 8, 2011

Derrel, thank you so much for that response! I always love to hear what you have to say on here because it is always such valuable info. Because the lens is fixed and I for the majority of the time shoot in manual mode I feel like both the manual focus and the manual aperture wouldn't be too overwhelming and would be good practice. Also I am somewhat used to doing both with my older 35mm camera.
Someone mentioned earlier buying a manual flash, do you have any advice or insight on those? I have never used on-camera flash (other then the annoying popup one) so I feel like I might be a little overwhelmed and take too much time to set in candid taking situations. Also I really don't want to settle for low quality, I would rather save for something more highend.

bazooka · Oct 8, 2011

If you plan on doing plenty of event photography, I recommend a 430EXII (used if that doesn't bother you). If you just want to learn lighting, check out one of the strobist packages at mpex.com. Investing in lighting is going to improve your photography much more than a new lens (assuming you take the time to learn lighting).

I just priced a package for a guy in another thread that included two lights, a remote trigger system, stands, and two modifiers for just over $500.

Derrel · Oct 8, 2011

Well, for OFF-camera flash with manual control of the flash output, which is the "Normal" way most advanced workers suggest, I think the Vivitar 285HV is the best-made flash, for the right amount of money. The majority of lighting involves setting up one flash at high power, a second flash at about half that power, and a third flash at quite low power as a hair or separation light, or as a background light. Often, an additional one, or two lights are used, to illuminate the background, meaning that FOUR-light and FIVE-light lighting set-ups are quite common. Nowadays, we have cameras that have baseline ISO values of 200 in many cases, which means that we no longer need kick-butt levels of flash power. With ISO 400 being perfectly acceptable with most new d-slr cameras, there's more to worry about than ever before that your flash unit is TOO powerful to give the kind of control you want.

As far as a "manual" flash unit; there are very,very few of those around. ALmost all flash units offer what is called AUTO-flash metering, with typically two, or three, or even four f/stops which are color-coded. You set the flash to a color-coded f/stop, let's say the Red Setting, then set the lens to the matching Red setting (f/5.6 for example), and then the flash unit will provide the right exposure for shots made at the "red" f.stop at the matching ISO value for that setting...this is called AUTO-flash. (Now called A-mode by many makers). You pick and ISO and an f/stop to set the camera to, and the flash AUTO-matically puts out just the right amount of flash for the ISO and f/stop it is set to. That is the way the Vivitar 285HV functions. It uses color-coded controls on a rotating click-stopped wheel. Very simple.

A flash that I think is the equal, or the superior of the 285HV, is the Sunpak 383. Why? Because it bounces AND IT SWIVELS, making it more versatile for vertical shots, when doing bounce flash work without a flash bracket. See this web article A concise guide to the Sunpak 383 Super flash

Sunpak also made a 444 that was a nice flash.

JMBriggs · Oct 8, 2011

Ok well I have an older vivitar zoom thyristor 285 that I use with my older 35mm konica (early 80's model I think). Is there a way to use that with my t1i? I was once told not to try it because it could fry my camera.

KmH · Oct 9, 2011

Photo Strobe Trigger Voltages

The 285HV has a voltage of 12V. The 285 has a voltage of 350V.

Page 197 of your T1i user's manual says, "Do not attach a high voltage flash unit on the camera's hot shoe. It may not fire."

JMBriggs · Oct 9, 2011

That's what I thought. Thanks. I think I am going to get the bower lens and then save for a speedlite later. Thank you for all the helpful advice guys!