Lubricant and Cleaning supplies for Graflex Crown Graphic Camera?

gryffinwings

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Looking at getting some lubricant and cleaning supplies to do some maintenance and clean up of the Crown Graphic Special that I just got, what is recommended? I'm looking at just lubricating the easy to access stuff at the moment such as the rails, also maybe try and lubricate the body shutter release and see if that will free up. I'm currently using Stoner Invisible Glass to clean some of the range finder glass and so far it it seems fine as it's a auto tint safe glass cleaner and I haven't seen any adverse effects. What about cleaning the body and bellows, I'm not sure what I should use to clean what seems like a leatherette cladding and I would like to use something to keep the bellows preserved as it actually looks really good, I don't see any cracking, the leather is pliable and doesn't feel dried out.

Thanks for any recommendations.
 
I have had good luck with Tri-Flow lubricant on gummed up moving camera parts. It even works on the dreaded green Agfa hard-as-a-rock lens grease.
 
I have had good luck with Tri-Flow lubricant on gummed up moving camera parts. It even works on the dreaded green Agfa hard-as-a-rock lens grease.

Good to know, other than online, what stores would have this?
 
I have had good luck with Tri-Flow lubricant on gummed up moving camera parts. It even works on the dreaded green Agfa hard-as-a-rock lens grease.

Good to know, other than online, what stores would have this?
I get it at my local hardware store.

p.s.: be VERY careful when lubricating precision optical equipment. I would spray some (or purchase the liquid) into a small container (well away from the camera) and then dip a toothpick (or the sprayer straw) into the liquid and apply only a tiny drop at a time.
 
I have had good luck with Tri-Flow lubricant on gummed up moving camera parts. It even works on the dreaded green Agfa hard-as-a-rock lens grease.

Good to know, other than online, what stores would have this?
I get it at my local hardware store.

p.s.: be VERY careful when lubricating precision optical equipment. I would spray some (or purchase the liquid) into a small container (well away from the camera) and then dip a toothpick (or the sprayer straw) into the liquid and apply only a tiny drop at a time.

Agreed, I prefer to be very precise in applicating lubricating oil in my camera, triflow seems to come in a small bottle and a spray can type, and all contain PTFE, is that ok?

Also here's a picture of what I am working on:

49019450_617123248743391_2186113820810805248_n.jpg
 
I'm not a camera repair person, but I would not hesitate to try it.

I've used TriFlow on nearly everything except a camera.

There is another brand that I like as well: The B'laster Corporation |

Website lists many styles and AFAIK, they're all good products.

Whichever you use, give it time to work in.
 
I'm not a camera repair person, but I would not hesitate to try it.

I've used TriFlow on nearly everything except a camera.

There is another brand that I like as well: The B'laster Corporation |

Website lists many styles and AFAIK, they're all good products.

Whichever you use, give it time to work in.

Which product did you use from Blaster?

PB Blaster or their multi-purpose lubricant? I like their products too, but for mechanical uses like cars and tools.
 
How about a drop of lighter fluid on the body release, to see if it will come "un-gunked up"?
 
Which product did you use from Blaster?

PB Blaster or their multi-purpose lubricant? I like their products too, but for mechanical uses like cars and tools.
As I wrote above, I have never tried anything like that on a camera. Just tractors, heavy equipment, and tools.
 
Which product did you use from Blaster?

PB Blaster or their multi-purpose lubricant? I like their products too, but for mechanical uses like cars and tools.
As I wrote above, I have never tried anything like that on a camera. Just tractors, heavy equipment, and tools.

I must have not read your post correctly, sorry about that, again, that you for the advice, I appreciate it!
 
For any and all metal cleaning on old cameras I go straight to the source and just use pure Naphthaline. Its the base of many cleaners anyway and can be purchased by the liter at your local hardware store. It also has the added benefit of thinning out old oil which can be helpful to free up a part you may not be able to fully disassemble.

For oiling (depending on where) I use watch oil for the smaller stuff (inside a lens mechanism etc). For the bigger stuff like rails, tracks and the like you can use thin oil, usually sold as "3:1 house oil" or the like.

Keep in mind that oil attracts dust and dirt and some parts are not intended to be oiled.

The focus adjusting wheel on the graphic cameras is lubricated with grease, you can use simple blue or green grease if you have it. In a pinch petroleum jelly will work
 
For any and all metal cleaning on old cameras I go straight to the source and just use pure Naphthaline. Its the base of many cleaners anyway and can be purchased by the liter at your local hardware store. It also has the added benefit of thinning out old oil which can be helpful to free up a part you may not be able to fully disassemble.

For oiling (depending on where) I use watch oil for the smaller stuff (inside a lens mechanism etc). For the bigger stuff like rails, tracks and the like you can use thin oil, usually sold as "3:1 house oil" or the like.

Keep in mind that oil attracts dust and dirt and some parts are not intended to be oiled.

The focus adjusting wheel on the graphic cameras is lubricated with grease, you can use simple blue or green grease if you have it. In a pinch petroleum jelly will work

Thank you for the information, very helpful!
 
The other thing I was recently turned onto by a buddy is lint free makeup brushes they come in various shapes and sizes and are way better than Q-Tips or the line as they don't leave little threads behind.

Generally I find watch makers tools helpful on cameras and a good set of tweezers and screw drivers is a must. Most of the inner mechanics are actually the same as shutter drivers are just short operations stop watches in some regards. The drive trains look almost identical the more and more of them you take apart...
 
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