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macro equipement help.

Tripod wise a 055XPROB or the older model (second hand now mostly) from Manfrotto is a good budget starting point for a solid tripod. However I would urge you not to skimp on tripods and to save up and get a really good set of legs since a good set will last you decades. Also if you plan on doing a lot of walking with the tripod a carbon firbre is the ideal solution - they cost a lot more but are lighter!

As for a tripod head for macro a ballhead is not what you want. Even the top range ball heads can suffer from creeping which is not noticable normally, but at macro magnifications it quickly becomes a pain. A good 3way head is a good setup up but idealy you want fine control in each axis and you only get that from a geared head. The manfrotto junior geared head is a very popular choice for this - I know its certainly not a budget line option, but for macro its the head you want to aim for (its also good for any other static* subject like buildings, products, landscapes etc... but hopeless for a moving subject like birds, pets kids or sports - which is where a ballhead excells).

*note I said static subjects whilst refrencing insects - if you are using a tripod for an insect shot you need one of two things - either a cold insect which is not moving very much (early mornings and just after rainstorms are when to find cold and slow insects); or a lure (rotting fruit, sugar water, flowers) so that the insects come to a controled location where you are setup.

If you are tracking an active and awake subject the tripod is not help at all since you will never have time to setup - here is where flash and monopods are what you need (though I have to admit I have not got used to using a monopod -most don't go down low enough for my tastes).
 
Tripod wise a 055XPROB or the older model (second hand now mostly) from Manfrotto is a good budget starting point for a solid tripod. However I would urge you not to skimp on tripods and to save up and get a really good set of legs since a good set will last you decades. Also if you plan on doing a lot of walking with the tripod a carbon firbre is the ideal solution - they cost a lot more but are lighter!

As for a tripod head for macro a ballhead is not what you want. Even the top range ball heads can suffer from creeping which is not noticable normally, but at macro magnifications it quickly becomes a pain. A good 3way head is a good setup up but idealy you want fine control in each axis and you only get that from a geared head. The manfrotto junior geared head is a very popular choice for this - I know its certainly not a budget line option, but for macro its the head you want to aim for (its also good for any other static* subject like buildings, products, landscapes etc... but hopeless for a moving subject like birds, pets kids or sports - which is where a ballhead excells).

*note I said static subjects whilst refrencing insects - if you are using a tripod for an insect shot you need one of two things - either a cold insect which is not moving very much (early mornings and just after rainstorms are when to find cold and slow insects); or a lure (rotting fruit, sugar water, flowers) so that the insects come to a controled location where you are setup.

If you are tracking an active and awake subject the tripod is not help at all since you will never have time to setup - here is where flash and monopods are what you need (though I have to admit I have not got used to using a monopod -most don't go down low enough for my tastes).


+1 thanks for the tips!:thumbup:
 
On the subject of getting more out of your macro lens I would (personally) say no to extension tubes for a 100mm macro lens. They will give you some boost to magnifcation but not a whole lot.
If you were to go for tubes get the Kenko AF tubes, which do come with the electrical contacts which let you control the aperture blades - otherwise you are stuck shooting wide open and that means a razor thin depth of field to work with. You can trick the blades to be shut all the time, but that will mean focusing with very little light which is just as hard to work with. So stump up the extra cash for the kenko tubes if you go that rout.

Personally I would say go for something like a Kenko 1.4 teleconverter (I belive this is compatable with the 100mm macro lens from canon); I use a 1.4 teleconverter all the time with my macro lenses and I find it gives a nice magnification boost; whilst hardly degrading image quality and letting one keep infinty focus.
You can also try out the Raynox series of macro lens diopters - the DCR250 is an affordable and highquality macro diopter (sometimes misslabled a filter) and combined with a 1.4TC (or used alone) gives you again more magnification.


On the subject of focusing rails, you do need these if you are going to shoot from a tripod. Personal experience has also taught me that the ebay macro focusing rails are one of the better designs (better than the manfrotto!) and are an affordable option (the other is novoflex which is very expensive).

Onto lighting - personally I would say avoid a ringflash as your first flash and instead aim for a proper speedlite flash. A 430EX2 or some sunpak options (there are numerous 3rdparty cheaper options but I honestly don't know them well enough to advise which to go for) would give you a flash with far more versatility than just macro and portrait work (which ringflashes are pretty much limited to). A flashgun combined with a softbox (I used a lumiquest softbox myself) and an offcamera flash cord (or offcamera radio remote) will give you a versatile and good lighting source.

However for lighting advice I honestly would open a new thread for that since there are many options that I simply don't know enough about to comment on
I was told today by B and H, that I can not put any extender on my tamron 90mm macro. His only suggestion to get more magnification, is to get a 60mm macro lens. ($400.). Do you agreee??
 
I would first double check with B&H - whilst I am certain that no extenders will work with your tamron lens (since extenders is the name that canon give to their teleconverters) 3rdparty teleconverters might be an option - such as the kenko range or the sigma. However as I am not a 90mm tamron user I have no idea which would or would not fit.

As for the 60mm macro suggestion I am confused at that - since any true macro lens (lens capable of 1:1 magnification) will give you the same image frame no matter what its focal length is*. Further the EFS60mm certainly won't fit canon teleconverters (Extenders) either unless the BH retailer is refering to the newer Tamron 60mm macro (at which point I point out that this lens is impressive, but is only crop sensor camera compatable should that be a concern for the future).

However all is not lost, you can always use a set of extension tubes (kenko AF tubes are the best, don't get the canon make) and put the smaller tube between the lens and the teleconverter. You will lose infinity focus this way but you will be able to use the teleconverter this way - and outside of teleconverters other macro magnifications boosting methods like tubes and macro diopters are going to lose you infinity focus anyway


* in a perfect world; in reality there is likley to be some minor differences but hardly anything that would greatly affect your image
 
You definitely want an off-camera flash (with off-camera cord). If you want to get really fancy, canon makes a beautiful (expensive) macro flash.

I have good results with my 430EX. With insects, I generally use it with a Lumiquest softbox.
 
You definitely want an off-camera flash (with off-camera cord). If you want to get really fancy, canon makes a beautiful (expensive) macro flash.

I have good results with my 430EX. With insects, I generally use it with a Lumiquest softbox.


right on i'll try starting my macro photography w/o a external flash for now until I save up some money for a descent canon flash.

thanks!
 
I would first double check with B&H - whilst I am certain that no extenders will work with your tamron lens (since extenders is the name that canon give to their teleconverters) 3rdparty teleconverters might be an option - such as the kenko range or the sigma. However as I am not a 90mm tamron user I have no idea which would or would not fit.

As for the 60mm macro suggestion I am confused at that - since any true macro lens (lens capable of 1:1 magnification) will give you the same image frame no matter what its focal length is*. Further the EFS60mm certainly won't fit canon teleconverters (Extenders) either unless the BH retailer is refering to the newer Tamron 60mm macro (at which point I point out that this lens is impressive, but is only crop sensor camera compatable should that be a concern for the future).

However all is not lost, you can always use a set of extension tubes (kenko AF tubes are the best, don't get the canon make) and put the smaller tube between the lens and the teleconverter. You will lose infinity focus this way but you will be able to use the teleconverter this way - and outside of teleconverters other macro magnifications boosting methods like tubes and macro diopters are going to lose you infinity focus anyway


* in a perfect world; in reality there is likley to be some minor differences but hardly anything that would greatly affect your image
OK, so would you buy the set of kenko tubes? And this would get me closer, -to put the extension tube on, then the 1.4 converter? I am not trying to be dense here, but I want to make sure this will help me get closer. And the guy at B & H, did indeed say that extension tubes would not help me , so please understand my confusion. The saleman did seem a bit impatient, so maybe I just did not get it. now what ?
 
You definitely want an off-camera flash (with off-camera cord). If you want to get really fancy, canon makes a beautiful (expensive) macro flash.

I have good results with my 430EX. With insects, I generally use it with a Lumiquest softbox.
Is this gonna break the bamk ? I just don't understand how more light (flash), helps magnify my subject. Remember, I am new, as if you could not tell. Thank you
 
You definitely want an off-camera flash (with off-camera cord). If you want to get really fancy, canon makes a beautiful (expensive) macro flash.

I have good results with my 430EX. With insects, I generally use it with a Lumiquest softbox.
Is this gonna break the bamk ? I just don't understand how more light (flash), helps magnify my subject. Remember, I am new, as if you could not tell. Thank you

ya I'm new as well when it comes to external flash. Whats a good starter ex flash for macro photography?
 
Firstly double check with users of the Tamron 90mm that there is no 1.4 teleconverter that will fit that lens. That is the first step you want to take. My advice regarding the extension tube is that if you fit the tube over the telconverter and then the 90mm lens the protruding part of the teleconverter will no longer hit the back of the lens and thus the two will fit together. Thus you get the bonus of the teleconverter.
We are not talking massive changes in magnfication here, but a boosting which I personally find very good for insects such as flies which tend to be a bit small (overall) for regular 1:1 macro work.


For flash I strongly recomend going for something like a 430EX (canon shooter) since its not only a versitle flash on its own but when combined with something like a lumiquest softbox and an offcamera flash cord it rapidly becomes a very versatile lighting setup. I use a similar lighting setup but I use a 580EX2 - for macro the differences in the flashes are not noticable, the 430 has more than enough power and most times you don't need the additional rotation features of the 580 (the 580 is also heavier than the 430).
From there there are many setups you can make and choose and macro flash is as varied and complicated as full strobist setups - though the more ideal dedicated macro flash setups are more expensive - start at the beginning and get a good allrounder flash in a 430 (or equivalent for nikon setups)
 
Firstly double check with users of the Tamron 90mm that there is no 1.4 teleconverter that will fit that lens. That is the first step you want to take. My advice regarding the extension tube is that if you fit the tube over the telconverter and then the 90mm lens the protruding part of the teleconverter will no longer hit the back of the lens and thus the two will fit together. Thus you get the bonus of the teleconverter.
We are not talking massive changes in magnfication here, but a boosting which I personally find very good for insects such as flies which tend to be a bit small (overall) for regular 1:1 macro work.


For flash I strongly recomend going for something like a 430EX (canon shooter) since its not only a versitle flash on its own but when combined with something like a lumiquest softbox and an offcamera flash cord it rapidly becomes a very versatile lighting setup. I use a similar lighting setup but I use a 580EX2 - for macro the differences in the flashes are not noticable, the 430 has more than enough power and most times you don't need the additional rotation features of the 580 (the 580 is also heavier than the 430).
From there there are many setups you can make and choose and macro flash is as varied and complicated as full strobist setups - though the more ideal dedicated macro flash setups are more expensive - start at the beginning and get a good allrounder flash in a 430 (or equivalent for nikon setups)
You really have been most helpful. I will order the kenko,, that way I could use them on any other lens I own in the future. What is your camera? I am thinking after my 70-200 2.8 IS, I am going to get a canon 5D.
 
Canon 400D myself, so little differnt from the rebel camera body you use (the USA uses different lables for the 400D and I forget what it is). As for the 70-200mm f2.8 IS its a great lens (I use one myself) though aside from the IS and the wider max aperture I would expect little image quality difference from the 70-200mm f4 L that you own already.
Moving to fullframe - the 5D - will also affect your macro (in good and bad ways). The good is that your image frame (the area of shot you capture) at 1:1 will be larger - you won't get any more magnification, but you will capture a larger area of the shot; in addition you will lose a bit of depth of field (around one stop in apertures worth) however master the use of focusing and maximising the plane of focus and it should not have too much impact on your images in that regard.
 
You need plenty of light for good macro. When you are shooting macro, it is very difficult to get adequate DOF without dropping your aperture to f/11 or even smaller. This is OK if you don't have a moving target, because you can just extend your exposure time. On the other hand, if your target is moving (e.g. bugs), you need to have a fast enough shutter speed as well. You will need light for that.
 
Hello All!

I've decided to focus on macro photography because for one I love the perceptive you get with macro and how creative you can become. I ordered my Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro Auto Focus Lens a few days ago :mrgreen: I can't wait to use this baby!!!!

I was wondering what equipment I might need to improve my photography. I already have a tri-pod and external flash...what else should I look at?

Your help is appreciated! :thumbup:
Which exernal flash did you buy? I need one, and a tripod as well.
 
I don't recommend extension tubes. That do not allow for infinity focus and are very challenging with very little benefit. Especially with the 100mm. If you want super magnifications though, they can do a lot with a 50mm lens. The canon MP65 lens will do this with no extension tubes, but it's expensive. For normal 1:1 macro, the 100mm is perfect all by itself!

I second the suggestion for a 430ex (with a canon you'll maintain the ETTL for exposure) with a lumiquest softbox or other diffuser. With the 100 mm, this works very well mounted directly on the camera due to the minimum focus distance of 6 inches. You'll want an off camera cord eventually for lighting control. Like someone posted, the 430 is more versatile so start there. Down the road if you really like it, invest in a macro flash.

A tripod isn't necessary if you use external lighting. I never use one. However, if you want ambient light and no flash, you'll need a tripod. Unless you use high ISO to get the shutter speeds up. Bugs can be very hard to get if your shutter speeds are too slow.

DOF is very thin with macro, so you'll have to close the aperture (higher number) in order to get enough DOF. This means you need more light to get your shutter speeds up, hence the need for flash or LOTS of ambient light. With that said, some folks like very thin DOF for their macro which makes the requirement for light not as critical.

If you use external light and want to hand hold, I suggest the following settings to get you started:
Manual Settings
Shutter=200
Aperture=f8-13
Focus mode=AI Servo (helps keep things focused with thin DOF)
Focus Point- Center only
ISO=100

Hope this helps
 

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