metering confusion

[Overread]

The blinking white area on a histogram shows the blown out areas, whilst the overall graph also shows you how the exposure is presented. So you can easily see not only how much but where in a shot you have over-exposure. This is useful as sometimes you can have overexposed spots showing on the graph, which in the photo show to be in small areas of no importance (eg highlight spots) as opposed to larger areas where it would visibly detract from the shot.

The vertical lines on the histogram represent one stop of light - so if you were to view and see that you had a whole bar on the right side without any data in it that would show that you could expose the camera to one more stop of light (a slower shutter speed, a wider aperture or a higher ISO) without the photo overexposing.

 

[Overread]

Whats the mentoring thing in your siggy...think I'm going to sign up for it, is it still active?

Have a click and a read I'm fairly sure most of the mentors still respond to private messages through the site, though a fair few have drifted from the site a little (meaning they are less active and one or two might take longer to get back to you). Those nearest the end of the list should still be active without any problems.

 

[paigew]

okay I totally get it now. thanks so much! Excited to practice tomorrow!

 

[KmH]

You have to look at the light meter in the camera viewfinder.

The light meter isn't shown in the viewfinder if you use AUTO mode.

I always look thru the viewfinder and always use Manual shooting mode....

Great then the meter is right there for you to see.

 

[Abrahamoloya]

Metering can some time be very tricky but once you got the general know how you should be able to overcome any related problem. I prefer to use aperture priority mode which is very effective and reliable in terms of giving you correct meter reading and can be used with any of the metering mode ( matrix, Centre weighted, Spot ). To achieve a correct meter reading, one can take the reading from a skin of a white person which is equivalent to grey scale or from a green grass or clear blue sky. I normally take my meter reading from green grass. I would advise you to set your camera on A (aperture priority mode ) and try to take your reading from either a white person skin or green grass from the same distance as your subject.
Here are few useful photography books which covers more about metering; Complete guide to Night & Low light photography by Lee frost, Lee frost photography Question and answer, Complete photography manual

 

[paigew]

You have to look at the light meter in the camera viewfinder.

The light meter isn't shown in the viewfinder if you use AUTO mode.

I always look thru the viewfinder and always use Manual shooting mode....

Great then the meter is right there for you to see.

yes, I know exactly where it is; that wasn't my question. I was confused on how to read/work the different modes. Yes maybe it was a stupid question, but it just didn't click with me until last night after I posted here. I got it now though, thanks for all your umm...help....??

 

[Village Idiot]

So this is the mentoring thread? Looks like my "advert" has already had an untimely demise.

 

[Overread]

Darn it ----- and I sent that link out to everyone too........... shame I can't edit pms after they are sent
(for those confused someone might have sent pms with the wrong link in them to people...

 

[MReid]

Pick 1 and use it all the time. Try evaluative (overall scene) spot metering (meters whereever your focus point is) if you are mainly shooting your kids.
You sound not very experienced so put it on evaluative and leave it there.
Learn to switch between the two. If evaluative isn't working switch to spot, focus on the face and shoot. For 95 percent of situations evaluative is the one you want.

Learn how to use your exposure compensation dial.
Set your blinkies to go on your monitor if something is blown out.
Shoot, look at your monitor, if the blinkies are going off or it looks dark use your exposure compensation dial to adjust and shoot again.

Switch to Aperture shooting mode it is much easier to use than Manual, let the camera do those things automatically for you.

Later on if you gain more experience take another look at using Manual if you feel you want to.

Ok...nobody come and tell me how the monitor is not good for judging exposure...for inexperienced people it is all they know how to use....eventually...maybe they discover the histogram and learn how to use it.

 

[paigew]

Thanks again for the new advice.

I practiced a little today and love my new found tool I was able to perfectly expose my kid in front of a window without using a flash...yay! I used partial metering. I am still confused though; I am looking at my manual and it says in evlauative metering "...the camera sets the exposure automatically to suit the scene". That is why I was thinking the different modes would make a difference in my shooting (without changing anything). I assume this is only works when the camera is in a priority mode?

In partial, spot, and center weight metering I can only use the center focus point? So my subject would have to be centered? But in the evaluative mode I can use any afp? What does it mean when it says "the exposure is not locked when you press shutter 1/2 way". None of my settings should be changing if I am manual mode, so shouldn't my exposure settings be locked?

in evaluative and partial modes it says "perfect for backlit subjects". so what are the other modes 'perfect' for? and if they are both 'perfect' for backlit subjects why use one over the other?

I will take the advice and leave it in evaluative mode for now, but I love shooting in manual. I like to have total control; just ask my husband hahaha

 

[MTVision]

Pick 1 and use it all the time. Try evaluative (overall scene) spot metering (meters whereever your focus point is) if you are mainly shooting your kids.
You sound not very experienced so put it on evaluative and leave it there.
Learn to switch between the two. If evaluative isn't working switch to spot, focus on the face and shoot. For 95 percent of situations evaluative is the one you want.

Learn how to use your exposure compensation dial.
Set your blinkies to go on your monitor if something is blown out.
Shoot, look at your monitor, if the blinkies are going off or it looks dark use your exposure compensation dial to adjust and shoot again.

Switch to Aperture shooting mode it is much easier to use than Manual, let the camera do those things automatically for you.

Later on if you gain more experience take another look at using Manual if you feel you want to.

Ok...nobody come and tell me how the monitor is not good for judging exposure...for inexperienced people it is all they know how to use....eventually...maybe they discover the histogram and learn how to use it.

Actually with some Canon cameras spot metering only works in the center not at whichever focal point you choose.

 

[MReid]

Just trying to simplify it for you.
I shoot thousands of photos a year and mine never leaves evaluative. (Matrix in Nikon)
I shoot in Aperture (I control depth of field and shutter speed) priority and adjust per the blinkies, I use the exposure compensation wheel to keep my exposures right on the edge of the blinkies going off.
For the most part that is it.
I usually use auto iso as well so my exposure usually stays right in the pocket where I set it with minimal adjustments (you may not have that ?)
The less settings you have to play with on your camera the more time you can spend concentrating on your subject matter and/or interfacing with your subject.

Focus and recompose if you have to, using the center point, (this works ok unless you are very close to your subject).

 

[MTVision]

In manual mode you don't need to lock your exposure just in the priority modes.

In manual you can use center ( for spot)to read your meter, adjust settings and then toggle the focus points to what you want it to be. In aperture priority you would have to lock your exposure. I'm not sure, about half pressing the shutter then recomposing in a priority mode, if that would lock your exposure or not.

I use spot metering pretty much all the time because that's what I'm use to. Yeah books and manuals say certain metering modes are good for certain situations but it's all up to you. What your prefer to use and what you are trying to accomplish.

 

[paigew]

In manual mode you don't need to lock your exposure just in the priority modes.

In manual you can use center ( for spot)to read your meter, adjust settings and then toggle the focus points to what you want it to be. In aperture priority you would have to lock your exposure. I'm not sure, about half pressing the shutter then recomposing in a priority mode, if that would lock your exposure or not.

I use spot metering pretty much all the time because that's what I'm use to. Yeah books and manuals say certain metering modes are good for certain situations but it's all up to you. What your prefer to use and what you are trying to accomplish.

thanks The way I understand is, once you set the exposure, it is set (manual), its not like selecting a different focus point will change the way the photo is exposed right? If I meter off a face (using a center fp) set my exp settings then change my afp the photo should come out the same even though my subject may now be off center? If I meter off a face and meter so that the face is properly exposed and the background is blown out, just because I recompose the shot doesn't mean I will change what is exposed/overexposed...the background should still be over exposed and the face properly exposed...correct?

 

[Rephargotohp]

In manual mode you don't need to lock your exposure just in the priority modes.

In manual you can use center ( for spot)to read your meter, adjust settings and then toggle the focus points to what you want it to be. In aperture priority you would have to lock your exposure. I'm not sure, about half pressing the shutter then recomposing in a priority mode, if that would lock your exposure or not.

I use spot metering pretty much all the time because that's what I'm use to. Yeah books and manuals say certain metering modes are good for certain situations but it's all up to you. What your prefer to use and what you are trying to accomplish.

thanks The way I understand is, once you set the exposure, it is set (manual), its not like selecting a different focus point will change the way the photo is exposed right? If I meter off a face (using a center fp) set my exp settings then change my afp the photo should come out the same even though my subject may now be off center? If I meter off a face and meter so that the face is properly exposed and the background is blown out, just because I recompose the shot doesn't mean I will change what is exposed/overexposed...the background should still be over exposed and the face properly exposed...correct?

That's correct Paige, Just understand that the only Mode that actually uses a focus point, is evaluative. All the other modes use just a section of the screen, so you point that section of the screen at your subject, meter, adjust for a centered meter reading, recompose and shoot. The settings will not change

There is ONE IMPORTNAT thing you need to change on your camera when shooting JPEG's in manual IF YOU DON"T the camera will actual OVERIDE the manual settings. Go to page 109 of your manual and turn OFF/Disable Auto Lighting Optimiser

And your manual also assumed in Exposure mode page that you woudl be shooting in an Auto Mode or a Basic mode. This is why while it's good to read the manual...sometimes they just suck