Monolight Flash Power

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Guys,

I am having a hard time with the setting of the power output of the flash. I have flashpoint 320Ms and they have the dial that allows me to set the intensity of the flash. My problem is that my pictures are being blown out by too much power or underexposed by too little. I find myself either adjusting the dials or the aperture on my camera. Seems like a delicate balancing act.

I just got these like 3 days ago, so I'm in my infancy with this stuff. Is there any rule of thumb I should be following with regards to the power output of the lights? I would rather leave my aperture at around f8 for maximum sharpness (Canon 17-40 f/4L), so I'd like to get the lights right. I've been reading a lot of stuff and I realize that there are different effects that can be achieved with different power outputs, but is there a rule of thumb for simple portraits (that sounds weird, but I will go with it).

Thanks,
Danny
 
Each full power setting like 1/8, 1/16, 1/32 is one stop of light. A quick way to figure out your exposure is to set your aperture to f4 and the flash power to 1/16 and take a shot. If it's under or over exposed adjust it one stop, then take another shot.

That's how I did it when I first got my monolights. Now I've used them enough to have a pretty good idea what they need to be at for any given situation.
 
Each full power setting like 1/8, 1/16, 1/32 is one stop of light. A quick way to figure out your exposure is to set your aperture to f4 and the flash power to 1/16 and take a shot. If it's under or over exposed adjust it one stop, then take another shot.

That's how I did it when I first got my monolights. Now I've used them enough to have a pretty good idea what they need to be at for any given situation.

Thanks Blake. BTW, the cowboy studio wireless trigger is working well so far.

Danny
 
For the best exposure, buy a flash meter. There are hundreds available for very little money on eBay.
 
For the best exposure, buy a flash meter. There are hundreds available for very little money on eBay.

Thanks! I think you may ave recommended one already in a separate thread, but can you recommend one now. I have seen old analog meters on ebay. Do those work as well as the newer digital ones?

Danny
 
Sekonic 308s is reasonably priced and works very well.

You can do studio flash photography without a flashmeter, but when using more than one light it allows you to set the ratios up properly and makes for a much more consistent result.
 
Sekonic 308s is reasonably priced and works very well.

You can do studio flash photography without a flashmeter, but when using more than one light it allows you to set the ratios up properly and makes for a much more consistent result.

Agree 110% with this .. I bought the Sekonic 308s .. and it works great!
 
Guys,

I am having a hard time with the setting of the power output of the flash. I have flashpoint 320Ms and they have the dial that allows me to set the intensity of the flash. My problem is that my pictures are being blown out by too much power or underexposed by too little. I find myself either adjusting the dials or the aperture on my camera. Seems like a delicate balancing act.

I just got these like 3 days ago, so I'm in my infancy with this stuff. Is there any rule of thumb I should be following with regards to the power output of the lights? I would rather leave my aperture at around f8 for maximum sharpness (Canon 17-40 f/4L), so I'd like to get the lights right. I've been reading a lot of stuff and I realize that there are different effects that can be achieved with different power outputs, but is there a rule of thumb for simple portraits (that sounds weird, but I will go with it).

Thanks,
Danny

I think I remember reading that you do shoot in manual mode...but I just want to reiterate this. Because if you don't shoot in manual, you're exposure will likely be all over the place...and anything but accurate with the studio strobes.

So since you are in manual mode, everything is within your direct control. So if you want to shoot at F8, then set your aperture at F8 and adjust the flash power setting until you get the exposure you want.
Another way of doing it, would be to keep the flash power consistent, and just adjust your aperture until you get the exposure you want.
By keeping one of those things consistent, you can adjust the other one to precisely control your exposure.

You could also use the ISO setting.

Keep in mind that as far as your subject exhibits diffuse reflection (most things do), you can control the exposure by moving the lights closer to, or farther from, your subject.
 
Sekonic 308s is reasonably priced and works very well.

You can do studio flash photography without a flashmeter, but when using more than one light it allows you to set the ratios up properly and makes for a much more consistent result.

Agree 110% with this .. Get the Sekonic 308s ..

I think I will eventually get something like this. I've already spent over 700.00 to get all the lights and miscellaneous items needed to start. Reflectors, stands, holders, backdrops, grey cards, etc... If I spend another 200-300 on a light meter, my wife's gonna kill me. lol. Anyway...

I'm looking at this meter to start off with:

Amazon.com: Interfit INT410 Studio Flash Meter (Black): Camera & Photo

I figure that for 43 bucks, I'll take a chance.

It says the shutter speed is set to 1/250th. I can't go above 1/200th with my canon. I guess I would just compensate for that with the aperture.

Danny
 
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It says the shutter speed is set to 1/250th. I can't go above 1/200th with my canon. I guess I would just compensate for that with the aperture.

Danny
Shutter speed does not affect the exposure when it comes to strobes & flash.
 
Guys,

I am having a hard time with the setting of the power output of the flash. I have flashpoint 320Ms and they have the dial that allows me to set the intensity of the flash. My problem is that my pictures are being blown out by too much power or underexposed by too little. I find myself either adjusting the dials or the aperture on my camera. Seems like a delicate balancing act.

I just got these like 3 days ago, so I'm in my infancy with this stuff. Is there any rule of thumb I should be following with regards to the power output of the lights? I would rather leave my aperture at around f8 for maximum sharpness (Canon 17-40 f/4L), so I'd like to get the lights right. I've been reading a lot of stuff and I realize that there are different effects that can be achieved with different power outputs, but is there a rule of thumb for simple portraits (that sounds weird, but I will go with it).

Thanks,
Danny

I think I remember reading that you do shoot in manual mode...but I just want to reiterate this. Because if you don't shoot in manual, you're exposure will likely be all over the place...and anything but accurate with the studio strobes.

So since you are in manual mode, everything is within your direct control. So if you want to shoot at F8, then set your aperture at F8 and adjust the flash power setting until you get the exposure you want.
Another way of doing it, would be to keep the flash power consistent, and just adjust your aperture until you get the exposure you want.
By keeping one of those things consistent, you can adjust the other one to precisely control your exposure.

You could also use the ISO setting.

Keep in mind that as far as your subject exhibits diffuse reflection (most things do), you can control the exposure by moving the lights closer to, or farther from, your subject.

You're right. I do shot in manual mode. What I've been doing is taking a shot and looking at the histogram to see if it's properly exposed. I need the meter! I'm going to get one very soon.

Danny
 
It says the shutter speed is set to 1/250th. I can't go above 1/200th with my canon. I guess I would just compensate for that with the aperture.

Danny
Shutter speed does not affect the exposure when it comes to strobes & flash.

One less thing to think about.

:)

Danny
 
Try F11 1/125 flash on 1/2 power, softbox/ shoot through brolly about 1 meter from subject on a black background you will not be far off just turn your power up or down just remember if you go down in power dump your flash before shooting because it will still fire at the higher setting (so just lower the power a press the fire button before shooting) once you get it set you can add a hair light from behind opposite you main on a slightly lower setting, forgot to mention you should be shooting on manual
 
Try F11 1/125 flash on 1/2 power, softbox/ shoot through brolly about 1 meter from subject on a black background you will not be far off just turn your power up or down just remember if you go down in power dump your flash before shooting because it will still fire at the higher setting (so just lower the power a press the fire button before shooting) once you get it set you can add a hair light from behind opposite you main on a slightly lower setting, forgot to mention you should be shooting on manual

Thanks Gary! I'm in manual mode.

I just picked up a really cool book that shows what the different light setups look like on different skin tones and white and black backgrounds. Really cool stuff. It includes setups with softboxes, monolights, reflectors. All at different angles. I think it will help. One thing I need to learn is the actual positioning of the lights to get the affect I have in my mind. It will come I suppose. :)

Danny
 

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