My attempt at cross-process...

nealjpage

multi format master in a film geek package
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So, I've read about cross-processing and decided to give it a shot. These were shot on Velvia 100 with my K1000 and processed at the local Fred Meyer store. They thought I was crazy when I told them that I wanted them to process my slide film in regular chems. The negatives were scanned to CD at the store and I've just transferred them to my computer, no editing. Sadly, though, the blue sky in most of the shots is totally blown-out:(. Oh well. Any ideas on how to prevent that in the future? Is it because I over-exposed one f-stop to up saturation?

I love this new way of doing things!:lovey:

1. Crossed Miller:


http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/.../img143/6231/0333333r1e003wr3.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

2. The Flamingo:

http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...s/img89/1893/0333333r1e009vk1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

3. Flamingo (this one got me chased out! :lmao:)

http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...us/img89/708/0333333r1e006tj8.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

4. Abandoned house:

http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/.../img204/4113/0333333r1e019hh1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

5. Bunny's Motel

http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...s/img89/6137/0333333r1e010np2.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

6. Mountains:

http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/.../img143/8358/0333333r1e031oa6.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
 
Bump. Any comments? Should I keep up with this process or move on?
 
Keep it up - sorry I missed these before. This is a cool series! :D Try using a circular polarizer when you have a lot of blue sky, shooting color film like this. You'll be much happier with the results.

I am crazy about #2 - the Flamingo's sign. This developing technique worked very here - the sign and the coloring has a very distinctive retro kind of feel, like a burnt out '50's movie set. Worked great! Same for #5 - that string of Christmas lights is killing me here. Good eye.

Keep at it. It won't work as well for some images as it does for others. I like it for these kinds of buildings and architecture in general. :thumbup: Good series.
 
:hijacks thread:

Charlie!! :sun: Good to see you posting again. I missed you!

:/hijack:


:lol:
 
These are absolutely beautiful. The cat and the abandoned house are amazing.
 
Thanks for the comments all!

Terri: I've never heard of a circular filter. What is it and how does it help?

Charlie: I was beginning to wonder where you were. Glad to see you and thanks for the comments. I think you'll really enjoy doing this.

I've got a couple rolls of C41 that I'm going to expose this weekend and have processed as E-6. I was really suprised to see the green tint of the Velvia--will the positives of the C41 film have an orange tint?
 
can i cross process my digital photos by maybe sticking my compact flash card into a pcmcia slot??:lol:
 
Thanks for the comments all!

Terri: I've never heard of a circular filter. What is it and how does it help?

Charlie: I was beginning to wonder where you were. Glad to see you and thanks for the comments. I think you'll really enjoy doing this.

I've got a couple rolls of C41 that I'm going to expose this weekend and have processed as E-6. I was really suprised to see the green tint of the Velvia--will the positives of the C41 film have an orange tint?
Neal, a polarizing filter reduces glare and will deepen blue skies. You can hold a circular polarizer up and rotate the outer ring and watch it in action! Anytime you are shooting color film outside, it's your best friend against washed out skies or glare off of water or leaves. :)
 
When I used to use inverse cross processing, i.e. developing C41 in E6 to make slides from negatives. I would have to test the batch of film before a shoot to make sure it was consistent. I used Kodak Gold 100 film (can use Fuji) but would use it with a 81A filter and I would rate the film at 32 asa which takes care of the problem of burned out highlights. The images would look very old "Technicolor" "movieish".

But in terms of cross processing, I would more often that not (and I was one of the first photographers to do this back in 1984) use the other process that you have being using. The problem with 35mm is surface area and the fact that you must expose the lamp to the negative for a very long time to get a good exposure as the negatives are very dense. You get color bleed. That is why I would shoot in 6x7 or at least 6 x4.5. The larger the surface the less bleed. Try under exposing a couple of stops and also overexposing a couple of stops and see the differences in the density of the image on the negative. The less black i.e. white in print the less bleed you will get.

Here is a sample of E6 to C41 that was shot for "Spoon" magazine. I used Fuji Provia 100-120 film with a Bronica ETRSi and a 75mm Lens.

http://anashcreation.com/thenashgallery/BenjaminKanarek/BenjaminKanarek0009?full=1
 
I love no.2....very lomo. You should keep at this technique, very rare these days.
 
i have some cross processed on my website (and will be adding more within the next week . . .).
most of mine turn out reddish unless i put on a filter. any ideas?
 

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