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NC Filter question for absolute novice

wornways

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Back story: I have a fairly well-off friend who has recently discovered that I have a knack for insect photography. Insects have been a life-long interest of his, and when he saw some of my photos he got very excited. Next thing I know I'm the proud owner of a Nikon D300s 12MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera and a Nikon 200mm f/4.0D ED-IF AF Micro-Nikkor Lens. I do not yet have any idea what to do with such a powerful camera, as the most advanced thing I've worked with up until now is Canon G11 (terrible for insect photography, but I make it work). It doesn't stop there, he also bought a Jeep Rubicon so we can go out once a week to remote areas to "collect" bug photos. So I have a feeling I'll be asking a lot of questions here over the coming months. Seems my friend and I have discovered a common interest.

Here is my first question. I think it's a biggie since the lens is so damned expensive. Here it is:

Should I get an NC filter for the lens?

If so:

  1. Why? Just to protect the lens? Any other reasons?
  2. What is the best possible filter I can get that will truly be "neutral", allowing this lens to do its thing without shading, distortion, or other unexpected anomalies?
  3. How do I know which filter will fit my lens?

If not:

  1. Why?
 
You don't need a filter. Why put a $20 piece of glass in front of a $1500 lens? Tell your boy to buy you a tripod, some flash equipment and then put that Rubicon to good use...

Just my .02.
 
get a uv filter to protect your lens, new lenses are coated and should not be wiped + if you drop your lens the uv will protect it, it will protect your lens from scratches dust and dirt and not interfere with image quality.
I don’t take a new lens out of a box unless I have uv filter read for it and I would never buy a second hand lens unless it had a uv filter fitted from new
 
Without starting a whole argument about UV filters, some people swear by them as a means of protecting the lens, others swear against them. It's up to you whether you feel comfortable with an exposed front element or not. Personally I don't care either way, I just try and take care of the glass.

Also, I think you are talking ND filters - you definitely don't need one of them. An ND (neutral density) filter is like sunglasses for you camera, effectively lets you use a longer shutter speed when photographing things like moving water. not something you want for bug photos.

A tripod may or not be useful, depending on the kind of bugs you're photographing. Fast moving bugs, forget it and go handheld. Slow moving stuff it will help you get the sharpest possible shots but at the cost of inconvenience.

The most important thing you will need is some sort of supplemntary lighting - a ring-flash is commonly used for macro work.

Ringflash.jpg
 
Thanks for your input folks. I can see that 90% of my decision process will ultimately be based on personal experiences.

Fokker, I can see that a UV filter will come in handy in certain cases. Can you (or anyone else) recommend the best UV lens?
 
...new lenses are coated and should not be wiped
Rubbish! Modern lens coatings are extremely durable and long-wearing. As long as you are careful and use clean, lint-free cloths and mindful not to rub grit around on the front element, you won't have any problems.


... it will protect your lens from scratches dust and dirt and not interfere with image quality.
More rubbish. Granted, a top end filter will have minimal impact on the image, but anything you put between the sensor and the subject is going to have an affect.

...I don’t take a new lens out of a box unless I have uv filter read for it and I would never buy a second hand lens unless it had a uv filter fitted from new
As mentioned, this is personal preference. I personally don't see the point, since your camera already has a UV protection incorporated into the low-pass filter assembly. If you do want to put a "protection" filter on, than I would suggest something like a B+W optically clear element. It will still cost $100 - 200 (depending on size) but will have the least possible impact on your final image.
 
...new lenses are coated and should not be wiped
Rubbish! Modern lens coatings are extremely durable and long-wearing. As long as you are careful and use clean, lint-free cloths and mindful not to rub grit around on the front element, you won't have any problems.


... it will protect your lens from scratches dust and dirt and not interfere with image quality.
More rubbish. Granted, a top end filter will have minimal impact on the image, but anything you put between the sensor and the subject is going to have an affect.

...I don’t take a new lens out of a box unless I have uv filter read for it and I would never buy a second hand lens unless it had a uv filter fitted from new
As mentioned, this is personal preference. I personally don't see the point, since your camera already has a UV protection incorporated into the low-pass filter assembly. If you do want to put a "protection" filter on, than I would suggest something like a B+W optically clear element. It will still cost $100 - 200 (depending on size) but will have the least possible impact on your final image.

I put a UV filter on every single lens that I own, and they're all B+W. I could give half a **** about filtering UV light, I just like the extra protection that's offered by the filter.
 
Folks are very divided on this topic, but I think it just comes down to what kind of conditions you shoot in. I use my camera a lot in the kitchen, so I like filters to protect from stir-fry splatter and the like. I'm also glad I've got them when I'm outside and there's blowing sand and whatever else. Modern lenses are quite durable, and technically you don't need a filter, even in the situations I've mentioned, but I find that they are easier to clean, and I'm also less paranoid about getting them dirty and cleaning them. I use Heliopan UV filters and they interfere with image quality very little. Nothing is perfect, but most of the time I don't notice them. Sometimes if I'm shooting at night and there are point light sources, I'll take the filter off. B+W are also very good, as mentioned, just make sure you get the highest level of multicoating available from whatever manufacturer you choose.
 

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