Need a better lens?

[skyy38]

Ah yes, depth of field, shallow focus etc. ALWAYS a popular subject which seems totally mystifying to the beginner and also, I've yet to come up with a formula to blur that background, consistently.

DOF calculators and tables are readily available. Most modern DSLRs also have a DOF Preview button.

Today, it would seem, the most popular piece of advice for blurring backgrounds, is to OPEN UP your aperture, thereby guaranteeing that Pro Look. Yeah, that will work, as long as you are shooting on an overcast day or a situation that has less than optimal light. Bright sunny day, however, will all but assure you of an overexposure.

Faster shutter to realign the exposure triangle or, if already shooting as fast as possible or NEED a slower shutter, ND filter.

Pardon me, but aren't you the same "experienced" photographer that thinks AF can't see through windows? If so, you might want to back off on giving advice to others when you seem to be a bit unclear yourself. It's not nice to impart bad info to others who are trying to learn. Just sayin'...

Most EVERYONE on these forums are "unclear" about certain subject matters. Why is it, when a person, who has a $3,000 camera, STILL asks questions about subjects that should have been "common knowledge" by now...? It's because that THIS Forum, is an exchange of ideas and concepts, and each new generation has the same questions about all of the "old subjects".

YOU might want to "back off" ...because you don't "know it all either"...even if you pretend that you do....

As for AF NOT being able to see through windows, that WAS my experience, with MY camera...yours, I'm confident, is of a much higher *whatever*....

But in the end, I still let MY work speak for itself, no matter the avenue in which it was *achieved*. NOBODY who reacts to a picture at a gallery showing, is going to give an *ass* about HOW it was achieved, at least not initially-they are looking at the picture and appreciating it because it strikes a chord within themselves. The medium hardly matters anymore-it is the *message* that gets priority..

I'm still learning.....you're still learning..everyone here is still learning. so, quit copping a squat, as concerns as what YOU know.....because the circle of light still has a long ways to go before it overcomes the darkness of what is yet to be *discovered*.......

 

[o hey tyler]

Sky, don't you think it's a bit counterproductive to post inaccurate information in an effort to help someone learn?

 

[Buckster]

Ah yes, depth of field, shallow focus etc. ALWAYS a popular subject which seems totally mystifying to the beginner and also, I've yet to come up with a formula to blur that background, consistently.

DOF calculators and tables are readily available. Most modern DSLRs also have a DOF Preview button.

Today, it would seem, the most popular piece of advice for blurring backgrounds, is to OPEN UP your aperture, thereby guaranteeing that Pro Look. Yeah, that will work, as long as you are shooting on an overcast day or a situation that has less than optimal light. Bright sunny day, however, will all but assure you of an overexposure.

Faster shutter to realign the exposure triangle or, if already shooting as fast as possible or NEED a slower shutter, ND filter.

Pardon me, but aren't you the same "experienced" photographer that thinks AF can't see through windows? If so, you might want to back off on giving advice to others when you seem to be a bit unclear yourself. It's not nice to impart bad info to others who are trying to learn. Just sayin'...

Most EVERYONE on these forums are "unclear" about certain subject matters. Why is it, when a person, who has a $3,000 camera, STILL asks questions about subjects that should have benn "common knowledge" by now...? It's because that THIS Forum, is an exchange of ideas and concepts, and each new generation has the same questions about all of the "old subjects".

YOU might want to "back off" ...because you don't "know it all either"...even if you pretend that you do....

I'm still learning.....you're still learning..everyone here is still learning. so, quit copping a squat, as concerns as what YOU know.....because the circle of light still has a long ways to go before it overcomes the darkness of what is yet to be *discovered*.......

This question/answer aspect of the forum is not a round circle of willy-nilly ignorance coming in from all directions that the person with the question needs to sift through to try to figure out which one is correct. Giving out wrong information based on ignorance is not helpful to anyone.

I don't try to answer questions with answers I pulled out of my a$$ because I don't know the real answers. I let someone else who actually KNOWS what they're talking about answer THOSE questions. I stick to answering questions that I KNOW the answers to. If I'm just guessing, I clearly state it in my reply - that I don't KNOW, I'm GUESSING.

Stop making excuses for yourself, and stop giving out bad information. When you don't really know the answer to something, don't pretend you do. Just let someone else who actually does know answer instead.

 

[skyy38]

Sky, don't you think it's a bit counterproductive to post inaccurate information in an effort to help someone learn?

And YOU are the "accuracy expert"?

And speaking of "accuracy", the handle is spelled "skyy"..NOT "sky"....

 

[skyy38]

DOF calculators and tables are readily available. Most modern DSLRs also have a DOF Preview button.

Faster shutter to realign the exposure triangle or, if already shooting as fast as possible or NEED a slower shutter, ND filter.

Pardon me, but aren't you the same "experienced" photographer that thinks AF can't see through windows? If so, you might want to back off on giving advice to others when you seem to be a bit unclear yourself. It's not nice to impart bad info to others who are trying to learn. Just sayin'...

Most EVERYONE on these forums are "unclear" about certain subject matters. Why is it, when a person, who has a $3,000 camera, STILL asks questions about subjects that should have benn "common knowledge" by now...? It's because that THIS Forum, is an exchange of ideas and concepts, and each new generation has the same questions about all of the "old subjects".

YOU might want to "back off" ...because you don't "know it all either"...even if you pretend that you do....

I'm still learning.....you're still learning..everyone here is still learning. so, quit copping a squat, as concerns as what YOU know.....because the circle of light still has a long ways to go before it overcomes the darkness of what is yet to be *discovered*.......

This question/answer aspect of the forum is not a round circle of willy-nilly ignorance coming in from all directions that the person with the question needs to sift through to try to figure out which one is correct. Giving out wrong information based on ignorance is not helpful to anyone.

I don't try to answer questions with answers I pulled out of my a$$ because I don't know the real answers. I let someone else who actually KNOWS what they're talking about answer THOSE questions. I stick to answering questions that I KNOW the answers to. If I'm just guessing, I clearly state it in my reply - that I don't KNOW, I'm GUESSING.

Stop making excuses for yourself, and stop giving out bad information. When you don't really know the answer to something, don't pretend you do. Just let someone else who actually does know answer instead.

Tell you what, I'll meet you 50/50. Look at my work and then YOU decide:

Flickr: skyy38's Photostream

 

[Buckster]

Most EVERYONE on these forums are "unclear" about certain subject matters. Why is it, when a person, who has a $3,000 camera, STILL asks questions about subjects that should have benn "common knowledge" by now...? It's because that THIS Forum, is an exchange of ideas and concepts, and each new generation has the same questions about all of the "old subjects".

YOU might want to "back off" ...because you don't "know it all either"...even if you pretend that you do....

I'm still learning.....you're still learning..everyone here is still learning. so, quit copping a squat, as concerns as what YOU know.....because the circle of light still has a long ways to go before it overcomes the darkness of what is yet to be *discovered*.......

This question/answer aspect of the forum is not a round circle of willy-nilly ignorance coming in from all directions that the person with the question needs to sift through to try to figure out which one is correct. Giving out wrong information based on ignorance is not helpful to anyone.

I don't try to answer questions with answers I pulled out of my a$$ because I don't know the real answers. I let someone else who actually KNOWS what they're talking about answer THOSE questions. I stick to answering questions that I KNOW the answers to. If I'm just guessing, I clearly state it in my reply - that I don't KNOW, I'm GUESSING.

Stop making excuses for yourself, and stop giving out bad information. When you don't really know the answer to something, don't pretend you do. Just let someone else who actually does know answer instead.

Tell you what, I'll meet you 50/50. Look at my work and then YOU decide:

Flickr: skyy38's Photostream

I don't need to look at your work to KNOW that many of your answers on this forum have been WRONG. AF can't see through windows??? You can't shoot wide open on a sunny day??? There's no way to figure out if a background will be blurry??? Hello??? Get off your high horse - you're WRONG and you need to STOP.

 

[Dao]

Sky, don't you think it's a bit counterproductive to post inaccurate information in an effort to help someone learn?

And YOU are the "accuracy expert"?

And speaking of "accuracy", the handle is spelled "skyy"..NOT "sky"....

Did you know that the information you given were not correct?

 

[cgipson1]

Tell you what, I'll meet you 50/50. Look at my work and then YOU decide:

Flickr: skyy38's Photostream

I looked... and sorry, but they are mostly snapshots. I see you are using a Nikon Coolpix L5 (unless you have upgraded since then.. although I didn't see any shots that looked like they were from a DSLR).

It is sometimes difficult to get anything but snapshots with that type of P&S.

I was curious, because I have seen some of your responses in other threads... and you do give out opinions, and incorrect data more often than not.

 

[cleanpig]

Thanks for all the tips and help!

I've read quite a lot of basic books and tutorials/guides, but my main problem with increasing the FP to 100mm for example, is that the chance of the picture being in focus is pretty low, because of the motions (my hand, unstable footings, no tripod, etc etc) that I make.
The stabilizer can't handle that stuff sadly. So I can reach some nice DOF and blur effect in the background, but the image would be too unstable/notfocused in most of the case.

So I usually shoot between 22-60 mm. The aperture at the first picture was indeed F5. That was the lowest the lens could handle in that situation. I should have increased the ISO to ensure proper exposure though.
The shutter timer was handled by the camera (used in Aperture Mode), the settings were 1/15 or 1/13 usually.

As I saw you guys are suggesting a prime lens. Aren't they a "one-trick-pony" as a few said? Should I use it as a beginner? Which ones should I buy? I saw one at amazon.de, they are pretty "cheap" compared to the nikon 24-70mm...
Or should I try and shoot as many pictures as I can in 100mm and pray that one will be sharp?
My bugget is roughly 1500 euro, but that's the most and if I can, I would use some trick/proper useage of the device to reach the my goal rather than buying an equipment..


PS: I was thinking of two lens:

First

Second

These two should cover my "needs" in cosplay photograhpy, atleast that's what I digged up. What do you guys think?

 

[justiceischeap]

Go for the 50mm 1.4/G. That allows more light. As far as it being a one-trick pony... in some ways yes. But if you want to zoom in, walk forward, if you want to zoom out, walk backwards. I have the 50mm 1.8/G and I love it. I get nice, shallow DoF with it but I can also achieve that with my 18-55 kit lens and my zoom. However, if you ever think you're going to do any low-light photography, then that 1.4/G prime lens will be a life saver.

 

[Buckster]

Thanks for all the tips and help!

I've read quite a lot of basic books and tutorials/guides, but my main problem with increasing the FP to 100mm for example, is that the chance of the picture being in focus is pretty low, because of the motions (my hand, unstable footings, no tripod, etc etc) that I make.
The stabilizer can't handle that stuff sadly. So I can reach some nice DOF and blur effect in the background, but the image would be too unstable/notfocused in most of the case.

In that case, you need a faster shutter speed or you need a device to stabilize the camera like a tripod or monopod.

The shutter timer was handled by the camera (used in Aperture Mode), the settings were 1/15 or 1/13 usually.

WAY too slow for hand-held photography. Those are tripod speeds.

As I saw you guys are suggesting a prime lens. Aren't they a "one-trick-pony" as a few said? Should I use it as a beginner? Which ones should I buy? I saw one at amazon.de, they are pretty "cheap" compared to the nikon 24-70mm...
Or should I try and shoot as many pictures as I can in 100mm and pray that one will be sharp?
My bugget is roughly 1500 euro, but that's the most and if I can, I would use some trick/proper useage of the device to reach the my goal rather than buying an equipment..


PS: I was thinking of two lens:

First

Second

These two should cover my "needs" in cosplay photograhpy, atleast that's what I digged up. What do you guys think?

I would not advise that you buy any more lenses until you work out how to really use the exposure triangle with your present lenses to get good shots. Until you do that, no lens is going to magically improve your technique and thus, your photos.

 

[weepete]

Don't just shoot and pray that you will get a sharp shot, just make sure your shutter speed is fast enough. If that means raising the ISO then do it. The rule of thumb is you'll need a minimum of 1/focal distance of your lens, so if shooting at 60mm the minimum shutter speed is 1/60 of a second to eliminate camera shake. You'll need to increase that if you have a cropped sensor as well by a factor of 1.5 or 1.6 usually so 1/75th or 1/80th is about right most of the time

I think that you really need to move your subject away from the background more and find the right angle to shoot at. If you can't get you may have to use a flash as well, especially on overcast days to expose properly with a fast enough shutter speed. Even at f5.0 you can get a blurred background if you set up your shot well.

 

[deeky]

Don't waste money on a new lens - you need to work on knowing the basics first.

For bokeh, move your subjects further from the background (particularly the first), and move closer to your subject to create shallower dof. Zoom out to keep your framing. Then do some more studying on the dof triangle.

Why would you zoom out to try to achieve a shallower depth of field?

Yeah, I know a longer focal length will shallow the dof, as will zooming out and moving closer. Given the nature of the photos, I felt the different perspective of a close, wide angle shot would fit the style better.

 

[deeky]

Tell you what, I'll meet you 50/50. Look at my work and then YOU decide:

Flickr: skyy38's Photostream

Since you opened it up - as a realtor I'll comment on your real estate shots. The perspective of your shots really focuses on and maximizes the garages. But the garage isn't anything worth that much focus on any of the shots (only if they are a 10-stall mechanic's garage). The rest of the house gets lost behind the garage, and yet the living area is what is going to sell most homes. Change the perspective and change your focus. It's a basic compositional/primary focus issue.

As for the rest of them relative to the bigger picture of photography out there, I'd probably place them in an area I know a lot about - meh. I'm humble enough to know I have room for improvement (don't we all).

 

[KmH]

Yeah, I know a longer focal length will shallow the dof,.....

That is a very common misconception.

A longer focal length magnifies everything in a scene, including any blurred background. If you use a longer focal length, move further back to keep subject scale in the image frame the same, and use the same lens aperture, the DoF stays pretty much the same as it was at the shorter focal length. The now magnified background seems to be more blurry, but the blurred parts are now just magnified.

You can verify that by plugging numbers into an online DoF calculator.

Now lets consider what happens when a longer focal length is used.
We'll use a 1.6 crop factor image sensor, a 50 mm lens at f/4 and a 100 mm lens also at f/4.
We will keep our main subject scale in the image frame the same for both lenses, so we will use the 50 mm lens at 10 feet and the 100 mm lens at 20 feet.

For the 50 mm lens set to f/4 and a PoF 10 feet from the image sensor we get (PoF = Point of Focus)
Total DoF - 1.84 feet
DoF starts - 0.84 feet in front of the PoF (45%). (9.14 feet from the image sensor)
DoF ends - 1 foot behind the PoF (55%). (11 feet from the image sensor)

For the 100 mm lens set to f/4 and a PoF of 20 feet we get
Total DoF - 1.83 feet
DoF starts - 0.87 feet in front of the PoF (48%). (9.14 feet from the image sensor)
DoF ends - 0.95 feet behind the PoF (52%). (11 feet from the image sensor)

Note that the 50 mm and 100 mm Dof is very nearly identical, though there is a signficant change in the DoF distribution that makes it closer to 50%/50%.

I used this online DoF calculator - Online Depth of Field Calculator
And recommend this tutorial - Understanding Depth of Field in Photography