need help with getting more lighting or exposure into the camera.

[Mashburn]

the pictures at camp. these were shot on around F5. (if I go to F3 or lower, you cannot get everything in focus that you want). ISO had to bite the bullet and move up to 500. And that was to get my shutter speed up to 1,000.
- It is very important to have the fastest shutter speed. I wish I could have 4,000 with my ISO at 100 and my F around 4.5-7
- It was crazy bright that day. so it makes no sense why I had to do those setting like that. It was 4:00 and just a couple clouds in the sky, but they were casting no shadows.
- I forgot to change my metering. but it was set to "spot".


The pictures at the dome I had to pull my F to the lowest it would go 1.8, ISO 100 (I hate pushing my ISO up because it starts to make it look grainy.). and my shutter speed averaged 60-150 in shutter speed.
- I know the lighting in there was a factor. because it is flurescent lights. but why that much? I tried even changing my metering and it seemed to not really help at all. (then again I am not sure if I am doing metering right or if that even has a factor on it. on metering on my D7000 I would change to Matrix and it seemed to not help at all.).

Is there a setting that I can change? or maybe something I have selected that should not be?


picture order.
1) F5.0 116MM 1/1250 ISO 400 (Where he is running)
2) F5.6 155MM 1/1250 ISO 400 (where the running backs are carrying the ball coming at me and jumping over the pads)
3) F5.3 122MM 1/1250 ISO 400 (all in a group. they were fighting)
4) F2.8 11MM (tokina ultra wide lense) 1/100 ISO 100 (Inside the dome has underarmour in it)
5) F4.0 50MM 1/60 ISO 450 (two girls jumping).

 

[Braineack]

ISO had to bite the bullet and move up to 500.

 

[robbins.photo]

the pictures at camp. these were shot on around F5. (if I go to F3 or lower, you cannot get everything in focus that you want). ISO had to bite the bullet and move up to 500. And that was to get my shutter speed up to 1,000.
- It is very important to have the fastest shutter speed. I wish I could have 4,000 with my ISO at 100 and my F around 4.5-7
- It was crazy bright that day. so it makes no sense why I had to do those setting like that. It was 4:00 and just a couple clouds in the sky, but they were casting no shadows.
- I forgot to change my metering. but it was set to "spot".


The pictures at the dome I had to pull my F to the lowest it would go 1.8, ISO 100 (I hate pushing my ISO up because it starts to make it look grainy.). and my shutter speed averaged 60-150 in shutter speed.
- I know the lighting in there was a factor. because it is flurescent lights. but why that much? I tried even changing my metering and it seemed to not really help at all. (then again I am not sure if I am doing metering right or if that even has a factor on it. on metering on my D7000 I would change to Matrix and it seemed to not help at all.).

Is there a setting that I can change? or maybe something I have selected that should not be?

Well I guess it would depend on your noise tolerance but depending on the camera ISO 500 seems awfully low. I can easily go to ISO 1600 on my D5200 with zero noise reduction and the differences are barely noticeable. If I need to go higher than that, that's where noise reduction software comes in handy.

If you can't increase your aperture settings for whatever reason then you'll have to either lower your shutter speed or raise your ISO. The only other option that exists is to add more light. You can increase your depth of field using a lower Fstop by moving further away from your subject, so that might be an option to explore as well.

 

[Mashburn]

It's cloudy right now. but tomorrow it will be sunny. I will take a couple pictures of ISO 100, 600, 1600, 2200.
- but for the training camp pictures, I have to crop the pictures sometimes to zoom in a lot. just because sometimes those nice catches are over half way across the field.

It's just weird to me that it can be crazy bright and I have to move my iso up so I can take a fast shutter.

 

[robbins.photo]

It's cloudy right now. but tomorrow it will be sunny. I will take a couple pictures of ISO 100, 600, 1600, 2200.
- but for the training camp pictures, I have to crop the pictures sometimes to zoom in a lot. just because sometimes those nice catches are over half way across the field.

It's just weird to me that it can be crazy bright and I have to move my iso up so I can take a fast shutter.

Well the human eye is capable of a dynamic range and lowlight performance that stomps the finest camera ever made into the dirt. Just out of curiousity, what sort of camera/lens combination are you working with?

 

[Mashburn]

It's cloudy right now. but tomorrow it will be sunny. I will take a couple pictures of ISO 100, 600, 1600, 2200.
- but for the training camp pictures, I have to crop the pictures sometimes to zoom in a lot. just because sometimes those nice catches are over half way across the field.

It's just weird to me that it can be crazy bright and I have to move my iso up so I can take a fast shutter.

Well the human eye is capable of a dynamic range and lowlight performance that stomps the finest camera ever made into the dirt. Just out of curiousity, what sort of camera/lens combination are you working with?

Nikkor 50MM 1:1.8D & Nikkor 80-200MM 1:4.5-5.6D

 

[Designer]

Is there a setting that I can change? or maybe something I have selected that should not be?

ISO can go higher.

 

[Mashburn]

I'm starting to wonder if I am just a chicken to move my ISO up. I just thought I could shoot at 100 ISO with a shutter speed of 4000 on a really bright sunny day.

I'll still post pictures tomorrow when it is sunny. and not edit them.

 

[Ysarex84 78]

I'm starting to wonder if I am just a chicken to move my ISO up. I just thought I could shoot at 100 ISO with a shutter speed of 4000 on a really bright sunny day.

ISO 100 on a really bright sunny day with your subject in full sun correct exposure = EV 15, which is: 1/4000 sec., f/2.8

Joe

 

[Mashburn]

I went and took a few pictures and analyzed them. at ISO 100 I can get to 600-1000 on a bright sunny day. when I get to ISO 500 then I can bump it over 1000 on shutter speed.

Basically I am finding out that I am just a chicken. thanks for trying to help me everyone. I'm glad to know that my camera is fine.

 

[Braineack]

really, none of the shots you posted look really under-exposed. Maybe the first indoor one, but you might have metering on the bright signage.

 

[astroNikon]

On my d7000 I regularly go up to ISO 800 without issues.

It's been hard for me pushing ISO but so far no problem. I remember the days of film when I used to buy ASA 200 or 400 film ONLY. So and ISO for anything above that used to freak me out. But I've also been at ISO 1600 too on my d7000 now.

Put your camera on auto ISO for a few minutes and shoot away at various parts of the field, then review what the camera did.

then determine a max ISO that you like, and set up the ISO Max to that number. Then just use Auto ISO (which will now have a max limit) for a while and see how it goes.

 

[JohnnyWrench]

What camera are you using? This was shot at ISO 4000 at night under stadium lights on my D700. At that rating I still only got to 1/640.

 

[gsgary]

For low light sports you need to be at ISO1600 +

iso3200 F2.8 you have to use the settings to gets the shot

 

[Overread14 2]

Noise you can deal with, you can use noise reduction software to clean it up - you can use sharpening to then counter softness caused as a result and you can use layermasks to isolate both effects to the areas you want them to.

As an example often you'll see more noise in background areas that are blurry; whilst at the same time those areas don't need any sharpening. So you'd use layer masks to apply a strong amount of noise reduction to the background, a weaker or no amount to the sharp in focus detailed areas and then again another mask to sharpen the in-focus areas.

Also remember that resizing for the web and printing hides a lot of noise; it just doesn't appear so you can get away with more than you think.



You can "fix" noise - you can't fix motion blur (at least in practical terms - a good artist might be able to or you could do extensive cloning and copying from the same and other shots - but at that point you're looking at hours of work for marginal gain).