new emulsion for me Ilford PanF 50

[Warfarin]

Canon AE-1 Program Ilford PanF 50

Not sure I like this film. I have used this camera before and the color photos came out fine so it's not the meter. But they all seemed under-exposed. The shots of buildings came out fine but the landscape stuff had very little detail. Is this normal for this film? I have a couple more rolls any suggestions how to get the best from it? Thanks

 

[webestang64]

I'd offer advice but I have only ever printed this film in the darkroom. It's no Pan-X but in the darkroom it renders good detail. I do develop it for work and it all gets scanned, customers seem happy.
Any more info, developer, scanner, neg thin?

Tech sheet if needed.... https://www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1905/product/700/

 

[Warfarin]

Local lab for all of it so I don’t know what chemicals or scanner they use.

 

[RAZKY]

Canon AE-1 Program Ilford PanF 50
View attachment 262762
View attachment 262763
Not sure I like this film. I have used this camera before and the color photos came out fine so it's not the meter. But they all seemed under-exposed. The shots of buildings came out fine but the landscape stuff had very little detail. Is this normal for this film? I have a couple more rolls any suggestions how to get the best from it? Thanks

I have only exposed 7 rolls of 120 Pan F (6 x 7 format) over the last couple of months – desert scenes. None have been printed or digitized, so take my observations with a large grain of salt! All were viewed on a light box under a 10X Peak loupe.
I like the detail and contrast I got at ISO 40 (as determined with my ancient Gossen Luna Pro), developed in ID 11 stock for 6 minutes 30 seconds at 68F. For most subjects under most lighting conditions, I think a #8 or #11 filter can be recommended.

 

[webestang64]

Local lab for all of it so I don’t know what chemicals or scanner they use.

I'm curious what they use.
FYI...For my BW lab I use stock D-76 for all films. By hand using stainless steel tanks/reels. Scanned using a commercial Noritsu 1800 series scanner. 2000 res jpg standard scan (good for up to 16x24 print) but can go to 4000 res 16-bit Tiff.

 

[dxqcanada]

I used to shoot Ilford Pan F plus a lot in my younger days.
Shot at 50 ISO and typically developed with Rodinal ... don't remembers times and stuff, but I never had problems with detail or under-exposure.

 

[compur]

The two photos you posted have a lot of sky in them. This can result in underexposure when using in-camera averaging meters.

 

[John Fontana]

I think the point here is that no film has a characteristic of under or over-exposing. The results are dependent on how the photographer chooses to expose and develop the film, and there is a journey the photographer must embark on to arrive at his own criteria for each film that also depends on the camera equipment (shutter accuracy etc), the technique of exposure assessment (different from photographer to photographer) and the development process ( water type, development chemicals used, type of agitation etc).
Using a lab ( which I understand may be your only option) robs you of the opportunity to exert your own influence.
As a starting point, you could try increasing your exposure by exposing at a lower ASA rating, say by 1 stop, making further changes as you feel arrives at your personal preference. This testing assumes you keep everything other than film speed the same to ultimately arrive at your own ‘formula’ for this film and development using your own equipment.
I would urge you to investigate home development which for black and white film can be done without darkroom facilities for a modest outlay for equipment, and ultimately gives the opportunity to experience the full pleasure of working with film.
Hope this helps.

 

[Warfarin]

It does and I have been wanting a dark room for decades but just don’t have the space. I know it is possible with out one and have glanced at it. I agree this is something I should look at harder. Thank you.

 

[webestang64]

If you ever get to the point of printing in a darkroom, using a film speed test you get the optimal tonal range of that film.

 

[terri]

It does and I have been wanting a dark room for decades but just don’t have the space. I know it is possible with out one and have glanced at it. I agree this is something I should look at harder. Thank you.

Maybe try using some filters with this, too. At least a yellow or deep yellow for starters? See if that pulls more out of the film for you.

As far as developing at home - the main challenge is just getting the film out of the camera and loading onto the reel in darkness. An interior bathroom or closet is a good place to try. Doing it at night will also help keep out light leaks. Once your film is on a reel and placed inside a developing tank, there's nothing to worry about. Not too difficult to mix the chemistry (Pyrex measuring cups) and pour it into these tanks. Then watch the time while developing, and have empty plastic jugs and a funnel to pour the used chemistry in.

You still won't be able to make silver gelatin prints with no darkroom, very true.

 

[Chase McCloud]

Maybe try using some filters with this, too. At least a yellow or deep yellow for starters? See if that pulls more out of the film for you.

As far as developing at home - the main challenge is just getting the film out of the camera and loading onto the reel in darkness. An interior bathroom or closet is a good place to try. Doing it at night will also help keep out light leaks. Once your film is on a reel and placed inside a developing tank, there's nothing to worry about. Not too difficult to mix the chemistry (Pyrex measuring cups) and pour it into these tanks. Then watch the time while developing, and have empty plastic jugs and a funnel to pour the used chemistry in.

You still won't be able to make silver gelatin prints with no darkroom, very true.

That's the trick huh. Loading the reel in total darkness. As far as filters go, in my experience, yellow reduces contrast. Also, there are some trees that just don't photograph well. The museum shot looks fine but I might add a stop of light to it.

 

[terri]

Also, there are some trees that just don't photograph well.

Yeah, I've heard of this phenomenon. It's called "bad leaf day."

 

[webestang64]

As far as filters go, in my experience, yellow reduces contrast.

From Ilford's site.....

"A yellow filter has always been the “classic” first choice filter for black & white film photographers. It gives an excellent balance between photographic effect and ease of use making it a useful and versatile accessory.

Many photographers use a yellow filter to “bring out the clouds”. This works by darkening the blue sky, giving a greater visual separation between the darkened sky and the white clouds on the final print. A yellow filter will also give improved penetration of haze and fog.

Although a yellow filter darkens blues, it reproduces green, yellow, orange and red in lighter shades. This gives more differentiation between the different colours of foliage while flesh tones have a more natural look.

A typical yellow filter will have a filter factor of 2 (the manufacturer will supply the exact factor). Most cameras with TTL metering will correct automatically for the filter factor but check your particular model."

More on BW filters....

Using Colour Filters for Black & White photography

<p>Filters have long been a popular accessory for photographers and offer a number of different functions or effects. In both analogue and digital photography it is possible to recreate some of these in the darkroom or digital darkroom. However there has always been a benefit to getting it right...

www.ilfordphoto.com

 

[Chase McCloud]

From Ilford's site.....

"A yellow filter has always been the “classic” first choice filter for black & white film photographers. It gives an excellent balance between photographic effect and ease of use making it a useful and versatile accessory.

Many photographers use a yellow filter to “bring out the clouds”. This works by darkening the blue sky, giving a greater visual separation between the darkened sky and the white clouds on the final print. A yellow filter will also give improved penetration of haze and fog.

Although a yellow filter darkens blues, it reproduces green, yellow, orange and red in lighter shades. This gives more differentiation between the different colours of foliage while flesh tones have a more natural look.

A typical yellow filter will have a filter factor of 2 (the manufacturer will supply the exact factor). Most cameras with TTL metering will correct automatically for the filter factor but check your particular model."

More on BW filters....

Using Colour Filters for Black & White photography

<p>Filters have long been a popular accessory for photographers and offer a number of different functions or effects. In both analogue and digital photography it is possible to recreate some of these in the darkroom or digital darkroom. However there has always been a benefit to getting it right...

www.ilfordphoto.com

It makes perfect sense. Thanks for that. That explains a certain success I had w a shot through ocean mist at Morro Rock, Morro Bay, Ca., I really liked the tones of the rock in yellow and looking back, there was some mist I was able to cut through as well. I went back to Morro Rock last week with a roll of Rollei 400 Infra red. Anxious to develop and make contact sheet of that one. Gotta find my yellow filter. Thinkin about some Foma Pan 100 next trip.