New Toys : Infrared 10D w/ 14mm 2.8L ii PICTURES :)

[shortpballer]

These are just snapshots off my balcony. I know there are certain ways to use a infrared camera. If anyone knows please help me out.

Pictures:
1.

2.

3.

 

[GeneralBenson]

Pretty cool. How come the last two are so brown? I thought IR is usually black and white-ish. Did you ad that in post? Also, did you convert the camera or buy it that way?

 

[o hey tyler]

I guess I am kind of scratching my head as to why you put a watermark on snapshots tbqh.

 

[TJ K]

I guess I am kind of scratching my head as to why you put a watermark on snapshots tbqh.

i'm guessing the program he uses to import/export automatically applies a watermark to all pictures exported.

 

[shortpballer]

I guess I am kind of scratching my head as to why you put a watermark on snapshots tbqh.

i'm guessing the program he uses to import/export automatically applies a watermark to all pictures exported.

You are correct.
Anyhow the first one I converted to black and white. They are all coming out a little brown. Thats why I was hoping to get some help. I think it has to do with my white balance.

 

[TJ K]

How much was the conversion? Do you have to do the lens as well?

 

[o hey tyler]

I guess I am kind of scratching my head as to why you put a watermark on snapshots tbqh.

i'm guessing the program he uses to import/export automatically applies a watermark to all pictures exported.

Oh I see what he did there.

 

[DeadEye]

Ahhh you have entered a new word. I could talk on this subject for endless hours. Digital IR~ I use a life pixel conversion

The redish tint is normal and you can adjust it by first shooting in raw then use the temp slider to get what you like.

IR is a funny wave and focus is shorter than visible. If the cam was tuned for 50mm 1.8 lens then it should auto focus well with that lens. The rest you gotta figure out on your own. I see you have the 85 1.2L does it have the correction marks for IR?.

Slap on a speed light then tape on a red green and blue gell over it to throw out mostly IR only light. Ignor the in cam meter , meter with a sekonic
and enjoy the results.

Ir takes a good bit of playing with to get the nack of it.

Cheers Dan

 

[shortpballer]

Ahhh you have entered a new word. I could talk on this subject for endless hours. Digital IR~ I use a life pixel conversion

The redish tint is normal and you can adjust it by first shooting in raw then use the temp slider to get what you like.

IR is a funny wave and focus is shorter than visible. If the cam was tuned for 50mm 1.8 lens then it should auto focus well with that lens. The rest you gotta figure out on your own. I see you have the 85 1.2L does it have the correction marks for IR?.

Slap on a speed light then tape on a red green and blue gell over it to throw out mostly IR only light. Ignor the in cam meter , meter with a sekonic
and enjoy the results.

Ir takes a good bit of playing with to get the nack of it.

Cheers Dan

Dan,
You just spoke a whole bunch of jibberish. Can you tell me exactly what you mean?
Thank you,
Eric

 

[shortpballer]

How much was the conversion? Do you have to do the lens as well?

Conversion is 325 at LifePixel Digital Infrared Photography IR Conversion, Modification & Scratched Sensor Repair

 

[shortpballer]

How much was the conversion? Do you have to do the lens as well?

Conversion is 325 at LifePixel Digital Infrared Photography IR Conversion, Modification & Scratched Sensor Repair

 

[DeadEye]

Ok

The tint you removed by converting to B&W is normal with digital IR. You can minimize it by shooting in raw then the first thing you do in post is adjust the color tempature to reduce the so called tint.





IR will focus differant than visible light. IE> If you shoot manual and focus tack sharp in the view finder then take the shot it will come out soft because IR is a differant wave length of light. Life Pixel conversions adjust by default the auto focus the be tack sharp but only with the 50mm 1,8 plastic fantastic lens " Unless you sent them a lens with the body to calibrate it to" The normal procedure to focus in IR is get sharp in the finder then move the foces ring a small amount determined by markings for IR on the lens, Does the 85 1.2 have these marks?


You can use your flash to light the subject just the same as with normal photography. To make the light somewhat invisible to people tape three gals over the speed light . A green red and blue, Play with combinations of gells to get desired effect , Think old school B&W filters but on the light not lens

I use a Sekonic meter when doing IR work and its spot on every time. The in camera meter is next to useless, its allways two stops or more off

 

[shortpballer]

Ok

The tint you removed by converting to B&W is normal with digital IR. You can minimize it by shooting in raw then the first thing you do in post is adjust the color tempature to reduce the so called tint.





IR will focus differant than visible light. IE> If you shoot manual and focus tack sharp in the view finder then take the shot it will come out soft because IR is a differant wave length of light. Life Pixel conversions adjust by default the auto focus the be tack sharp but only with the 50mm 1,8 plastic fantastic lens " Unless you sent them a lens with the body to calibrate it to" The normal procedure to focus in IR is get sharp in the finder then move the foces ring a small amount determined by markings for IR on the lens, Does the 85 1.2 have these marks?


You can use your flash to light the subject just the same as with normal photography. To make the light somewhat invisible to people tape three gals over the speed light . A green red and blue, Play with combinations of gells to get desired effect , Think old school B&W filters but on the light not lens

I use a Sekonic meter when doing IR work and its spot on every time. The in camera meter is next to useless, its allways two stops or more off

I bought the camera used. So my assumption that it is calibrated to 50mm.
So I should flash people with 3 gels? I'm a little concerned as I would want the light to invisible to people? I'm assuming you mean that they can't see the light, but the infrared will show up? Sorry for all the questions lol.

 

[DeadEye]

A speed light puts out visible and IR light every time it is used. If you put a red,green and blue gel over the speed light the result will be that most light from it will be IR. You have just blocked most of the visible light from getting out of the strobe.

Benefits are

1. Not flash blinding your subject, instead of them seeing a bright blinding flash they see only a dull red blink.


2. Creativity. By playing with the gel you can control the tonality just the same as B&W photographers using a red or green filter. Try stuff like two green, a red and a blue.

Try this

Set up on a tripod with the bare 580 on top of camera , shoot in all Manuel, take a shot of something about 10 feet away.

Now add the three gels and take another shot without changing anything, note the two images are almost identical, but you did not notice the flash very much that time.

Now add another gel and notice that the tonality on some parts change.